Parabolic spring problem

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Clanger

New Member
Posts
13
Location
doncaster
Hi all
Just fitted a pair of Britpart parabolic gray springs to the rear of my 11a truck cab and it now looks ridiculous because the rear end is about 6 inch too high.
I have all so swapped the gear box which now leaks gear oil from the bell housing.The gear box did not leak until i drove it and still dose not leak when it has been stood for a while.
Today i lifted a concrete weight in the back which is the counter weight of my loader tractor which leveled it up and took it for a run.Got back and no leak.
What i would like to know is has any one else fitted any of these springs and found them too high and secondly is this normal for the gear box to leak when the land rover is driving at this angle?
Thanks.
 
hi i have just got the same ones but have you fitted them to front so as to lift the front aswell
 
Yes they where already fitted when i bought it.I think these are made by British springs as they look the same as the one i fitted to Light weight a few years ago and these did and have not given me any problems.
Thanks.
 
i take it you have put the spring shackles at the same angle as the old springs as i believe that they should only lift the vehicle about 2 " i also believe that you ned to preload the springs before torquing the bolts up but that is only what i have been told
 
try this it may help
Some thoughts on fitting the Parabolic springs etc. Before starting out, give some serious thought to SAFETY. Make sure that the vehicle is unable to move by chocking all 4 wheels, engaging 4 wheel drive and engage 1st low. If you have free wheel hubs, engage them. Work on level ground.
Much depends on the equipment available to you. Our favourite method uses a high lift jack (try to borrow one if you don’t have your own) to lift each corner in turn, and to leave the wheels ON. This saves having to balance the axle on a trolley jack, and by working on one corner at a time, the LandRover is always supported on three of the springs. A small bottle jack is also useful.Taking care that the jack cannot slip out of position, lift one corner so that the spring is taking no weight. Removal can then start by removing the rear lower lock nut and bolt (remember that it is threaded to the shackle plate as well). Slacken but do not remove the upper bolt and nut. Next, remove the lower damper fixing (although this is not essential) and the U-bolt nuts. Finally remove the front nut and bolt. The spring is now free. Slacken but do not remove the U-bolt nuts on the other side of the same axle to facilitate locating the new spring’s peg.The new spring can now be offered up and the front bolt inserted but not tightened. If working alone, use a piece of rope or a prop to hold the spring up in position while you locate the peg on the top of the spring in the hole under the axle. With the opposite U-bolts loosened, you should be able to roll the axle on its wheels to and fro just enough to locate the peg. A small bottle jack can be used to push up in the centre of the bottom plate to hold things while the nuts are fitted. On the front axle, if the vehicle has been jacked very high, it can make this impossible as the prop shaft will pull the axle back. Simply lower the jack a bit. None of the bolts or nuts should be tight at this stage. The rear bolts and nuts can now be fitted, if necessary adjusting the height on the jack to locate them.
Repeat the above operation on the other side of the axle, after transferring the jack to the other side. The dampers, if they were removed or are being renewed can now be fitted.Now do it all over again at the other end! Then tighten all the U-bolts to correct torque (58lb/ft). Before tightening the shackle bolts, however, make sure the vehicle is on level ground, and then roll it back and forth and rock it on its springs to settle the bushes in a neutral position before tightening all shackle bolts into their plates and then their lock nuts to 60-70lb/ft. The centre tube of the bushes should now be tightly nipped between the side plates or the sides of the front chassis mounts. It is worth noting that the instructions in the LandRover workshop manual differ between the Series II and III versions. The Series II method is as I have given here. The Series III one is to force the suspension to a set height before bolting up. This may be fine for the standard springs, BUT NOT FOR THE PARABOLICS, which have a different ride height position. We advise that you stick to the Series II method as in the previous paragraph, whether you have a Series I, II or III.
 
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