P38 power loss

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Ad60

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Hi
I am new to Landzone and hoping someone can help me here. I have a W reg diesel Range Rover P38. Recently the car has suddenly lost power when driving. The auto gears kick down but no power Then It suddenly comes back again. I have changed the fuel filter but the car still keeps losing power. There are no fault codes. Any thoughts?
 
Check the MAP pipe from the inlet manifold to the sensor on the fuel filter, check all the inlet & turbo pipes. What year is it? If it has a MAF it could also be that or a sticking EGR valve. How much fuel have you got in the tank? Low fuel and a duff in tank pump is another possible cause, When was the fuel filter last changed?
What did you use to read the faults?
 
Hi Datatek
It's a 2000 model. Power loss has occurred when fuel is at varying levels 1/2 full etc. fuel filter changed 2 weeks ago, car fine for a 100 miles then power loss again. Faults read by my local garage who has relevant reader equipment but this power loss has baffled him
 
Ad60 said:
Hi Datatek
It's a 2000 model. Power loss has occurred when fuel is at varying levels 1/2 full etc. fuel filter changed 2 weeks ago, car fine for a 100 miles then power loss again. Faults read by my local garage who has relevant reader equipment but this power loss has baffled him
Click to expand...
Check the in tank pump is working and delivering enough fuel. Could be bacterial growth in the fuel tank.
 
Sorry to revisit this post, on my P38 power loss. We found the advice last given tip top so thanks . The pipe to the MAP had come out. This was put back and the car went like a dream, however 2 days later same problem, the loses power struggles on any in line with the gears kicking down to compensate, but to no avail.

Due back at the garage tomorrow so any thoughts very welcome!

Thanks
 
Ad60 said:
Sorry to revisit this post, on my P38 power loss. We found the advice last given tip top so thanks . The pipe to the MAP had come out. This was put back and the car went like a dream, however 2 days later same problem, the loses power struggles on any in line with the gears kicking down to compensate, but to no avail.

Due back at the garage tomorrow so any thoughts very welcome!

Thanks
Click to expand...

So if it initially went well when you put the MAP pipe back, look for splits in the pipe, blockage at the manifold and at the sensor. A new pipe is worth the few pence it will cost.
The garage should be able to look at the MAP sensor response using live data on diagnostics.

Also worth pulling the inlet pipe off the manifold and looking at the EGR valve. You can disable the valve by removing the vacuum pipe from the diaphragm on the EGR.
 
Last edited:
RovyCouple said:
Same issue, loss of power. Found a short pipe had come off, one end a relay, but cant find where the pipe end goes, on the aluminium inlet manifols ? yes but where?
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It goes on the nipple under the inlet manifold above the fip you can see it here in line with no2 inlet, make sure its not blocked as well.
s-l1600.jpg
 
One of the issues with P38 s the original rubber s deteriorate over time , my two have 24 and 22 years each , so will probably have to renew all the rubber bits eventually. especially if been standing and laid up as my v8 was. ah well. Do modern plastics last as long ?
 
dubbleRR said:
Just to muddy the water a bit ,If you have a metal manifold like the one shown ,You might have had an engine change ,most w 2000 have plastic ones:rolleyes:
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That's true. I have a 2000dhse but changed the engine for a pre EGR one(metal manifold). If this is so the MAF plays a part in the running of the engine power. To check simply unplug MAF plug from socket and see how it runs. If MAF faulty you will notice a big difference. If you have to change it be wary of some of these cheap Chinese imports, talking from experience. I ran mine for 6 months with maf unplugged befor eI managed to get second hand original
 
Rubberknees said:
That's true. I have a 2000dhse but changed the engine for a pre EGR one(metal manifold). If this is so the MAF plays a part in the running of the engine power. To check simply unplug MAF plug from socket and see how it runs. If MAF faulty you will notice a big difference. If you have to change it be wary of some of these cheap Chinese imports, talking from experience. I ran mine for 6 months with maf unplugged befor eI managed to get second hand original
Click to expand...
MAF is for exhaust gas inflow measurement for EGR it has nothing to do with how the engine runs.
 
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