P38 Front Axle Seals

GawaineT · Apr 4, 2015

I am in need of replacing the passenger side oil deal at the wheel end of the axle, been warned by my local garage its a 4 hour job which means a £300 bill to change a £10 (ish) seal?

Is this a correct timing? I've tackled other jobs but been warned they are hard to do due to stuff bring seized etc

wammers · Apr 4, 2015

GawaineT said:
I am in need of replacing the passenger side oil deal at the wheel end of the axle, been warned by my local garage its a 4 hour job which means a £300 bill to change a £10 (ish) seal?

Is this a correct timing? I've tackled other jobs but been warned they are hard to do due to stuff bring seized etc

In a garage on a ramp should not be more than about 2 hrs maybe your local garage works on the Robinson theory.

GawaineT · Apr 4, 2015

Hmm that's handy to know, thankyou

tarphenry · Apr 4, 2015

If its seized, you are better spending your time freeing it off than theirs, you are much cheaper. the basics are simple,plenty of plus gas and take your time. heavy hammer and a suitable drift(blunt chisel) soak it in plus gas ,have a brew ,bash it a bit,more plus gas another brew and so on. it will come off. if you remove all the bolts and try to rotate it slightly then rotate it the other way you will break the seal .then start to knock it outwards, than rotate again and repeat as required.

wammers · Apr 4, 2015

tarphenry said:
If its seized, you are better spending your time freeing it off than theirs, you are much cheaper. the basics are simple,plenty of plus gas and take your time. heavy hammer and a suitable drift(blunt chisel) soak it in plus gas ,have a brew ,bash it a bit,more plus gas another brew and so on. it will come off. if you remove all the bolts and try to rotate it slightly then rotate it the other way you will break the seal .then start to knock it outwards, than rotate again and repeat as required.

Or you could use the more mechanically correct method i described in a thread a while ago.

tarphenry · Apr 4, 2015

Which thread would that be?

wammers · Apr 4, 2015

tarphenry said:
Which thread would that be?

The one you describe your method in i think.

Grrrrrr · Apr 4, 2015

It takes a while as everything tends to be rusted up unless someone has had it off recently.

Irishrover · Apr 5, 2015

From experience I can confirm that removal of the hub from the swivel housing can be a bastid of a job. As others have said plenty of Plus Gas or similar...Forget the WD40 complete waste of time & money, and brute force is needed as they get well & truly rusted in. You would think they were welded together !!!
After removal, dress the lumps and bumps off with a file or angle grinder and also give the bore of the swivel housing a good polish with a flap wheel. During reassembly, coat all mating surfaces with Copper Grease.
Don't forget to buy a new driveshaft nut for reassembly.

StuckAgainSteve · Apr 5, 2015

:lalala:

wammers · Apr 5, 2015

StuckAgainSteve said:
:lalala:

Still prefer my method if hub is rusted in.

tarphenry · Apr 5, 2015

The problem with a puller is that you need to fracture the rust film and hitting the end of the puller will transfer most of the impact through the c/v joint not the rust line

wammers · Apr 5, 2015

tarphenry said:
The problem with a puller is that you need to fracture the rust film and hitting the end of the puller will transfer most of the impact through the c/v joint not the rust line

Putting weight through the drive shaft into the CV joint and diff is not a good idea.

P38 Front Axle Seals

GawaineT

Member

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

GawaineT

Member

tarphenry

Well-Known Member

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

tarphenry

Well-Known Member

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

Irishrover

Well-Known Member

StuckAgainSteve

Well-Known Member

Attachments

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

tarphenry

Well-Known Member

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Similar threads