P38 foot well lights

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redrange

New Member
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846
Hi all, sdo the footwell lights use a switched earth or live to make them work?
if its a switched earth il have to use a relay for my plans, if switched live il be happy!
 
Redrange,

I don't know but I can maybe help you find out. Firstly, I'd be pretty suprised if it was a switched earth but then this is a relativly quirky Britsh car, most of my experience is with Jap cars.

If you've got a multi meter you can find out though. Take the bulb out and test the bulb terminals with the car in the condition in which the bulb will be off (ie lights off, doors shut, whatever).

The difference between a switched live or earth can be established thus. With a switched live one terminal will make a circuit with the body, the other won't make a circuit with the +ve battery terminal (assuming the car is a -ve earth, most are).

With a switched earth one terminal will make a circuit with the +ve terminal and the other won't make a circuit with the body.

Best to test this using a multi meter with a fuse built in and make sure the vehicle is in the light off mode or you'll get confusing results.
 
Oh where have the simple days gone ?

Hi Red,
According to my 95 wiring diagram,

Fuse F1 10a supplies the rear footwell lights B182 directly via lead PU c625 to c613.
The negative side is driven negative by the BECM PW wire pin 12 (C625) z238

Pins 4 and 13 of BECM z238 are taken to ground by door switches C714l and c714r via ground distribution points e367 and e328

In a nutshell the lamps are supplied diectly form fuse 1 but the negative is controlled by a semicondctor switch within the BECM being taken to ground by a door switch.

Rave page H4-5 and H5-3

Fronts will be similar

Hope this helps

Fred
 
Redrange,

I don't know but I can maybe help you find out. Firstly, I'd be pretty suprised if it was a switched earth but then this is a relativly quirky Britsh car, most of my experience is with Jap cars.

If you've got a multi meter you can find out though. Take the bulb out and test the bulb terminals with the car in the condition in which the bulb will be off (ie lights off, doors shut, whatever).

The difference between a switched live or earth can be established thus. With a switched live one terminal will make a circuit with the body, the other won't make a circuit with the +ve battery terminal (assuming the car is a -ve earth, most are).

With a switched earth one terminal will make a circuit with the +ve terminal and the other won't make a circuit with the body.

Best to test this using a multi meter with a fuse built in and make sure the vehicle is in the light off mode or you'll get confusing results.

thanx for that, i am quite conversant with electrics but lazy hence the question! thanx again for your time though.

Oh where have the simple days gone ?

Hi Red,
According to my 95 wiring diagram,

Fuse F1 10a supplies the rear footwell lights B182 directly via lead PU c625 to c613.
The negative side is driven negative by the BECM PW wire pin 12 (C625) z238

Pins 4 and 13 of BECM z238 are taken to ground by door switches C714l and c714r via ground distribution points e367 and e328

In a nutshell the lamps are supplied diectly form fuse 1 but the negative is controlled by a semicondctor switch within the BECM being taken to ground by a door switch.

Rave page H4-5 and H5-3

Fronts will be similar

Hope this helps

Fred

hi and thanx also. i know most interior lamps work on a switched earth basis, and even though there is a BeCM in the mix i thought maybe it may be the same!
if its a switched earth il have to put a relay in the circuit, which isn't a problem just nice to know before i get stuck in!

and assuming the power supply is from the BeCM i think a relay will be a good idea as to not overload the internals.

thanks to you both.
 
What are you doing with the circuit Red?

i fitted a K+N filter and along with the de-cat im extremely happy with performance.
the people who sugested i may suffer from sucking hot under bonnet air where right, but only when left for a while and then started, it idles rough untill moving, this has only been an issue since the weather has warmed up!
to combat this there are aditional temperature controled cooling fans blowing cold air to the under bonnet area and they work well but i want them to come on before i start the engine!
so i will take a overide supply from the int lights as they come on when remote unlocks it, the fans will be blowing for a few seconds at least before engine started, this will save turning on aux and waiting for 5 secs before starting engine.
when moving, even slowly, its no problem, its just rough idle after started from hot when left 10 mins or more!
 
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