P38 diesel starting issue

My p38 starts no problem hot or cold providing it’s at least 1/4 full of fuel, if less than 1/4 full it seems to take a bit of turning over before it’ll fire up...roughly around 4 or 5 seconds.
If I change the in tank pump will it cure the problem or is it just the way they are and that the in tank pump needs to be submerged all the time? I know keeping it topped up with fuel is the easiest cure lol but the pump is only 30 odd quid so it might be worth changing

Bigshuey said:

My p38 starts no problem hot or cold providing it’s at least 1/4 full of fuel, if less than 1/4 full it seems to take a bit of turning over before it’ll fire up...roughly around 4 or 5 seconds.
If I change the in tank pump will it cure the problem or is it just the way they are and that the in tank pump needs to be submerged all the time? I know keeping it topped up with fuel is the easiest cure lol but the pump is only 30 odd quid so it might be worth changing

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Your symptoms are a sign that pump is weak or failed. DO NOT get a £30.00 pump get at least a OEM VDO pump. Such as this. https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-pump-esr1111g-p-7733.html

I think several of the Diesel buffs on here would be able to tell you for sure. @Datatek @wammers
I know very little about the Diesel P38, but I thought the Low Pressure lift pump in the tank was a devil to get at unless you either wanted to drop the tank, or cut a hole in your boot-floor.

DanClarke said:

I think several of the Diesel buffs on here would be able to tell you for sure. @Datatek @wammers
I know very little about the Diesel P38, but I thought the Low Pressure lift pump in the tank was a devil to get at unless you either wanted to drop the tank, or cut a hole in your boot-floor.

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Yeah it’s probably easier to cut the floor under the back seat
I seen a post on here where the measurements are clearly photographed which will make it a lot easier

Drop the tank and check the brake pipes for corrosion at the same time as their have been quite a few that are rusty.

brianp38dse said:

Drop the tank and check the brake pipes for corrosion at the same time as their have been quite a few that are rusty.

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Knowing my luck they’ll be rotten lol

Most are getting past there sell buy date if they haven't be changed already and the pipes can not be seen above the tank, so better safe than sorry.

brianp38dse said:

Most are getting past there sell buy date if they haven't be changed already and the pipes can not be seen above the tank, so better safe than sorry.

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Cheers it’s definitely worth looking into, half filled it with diesel tonight there it starts like a new car....might live with keeping it topped up just lol

I always keep the tank as near full as possible, half full tanks allow condensation which can lead to bacterial growth which bungs things up.
In my project car, I fitted a cheap Shytpart pump not expecting to last, but the car had been run on veggie oil and the tank was full of crap which I cleaned out as best I could. I figured the cheap pump would last until the tank had been flushed through a few times, it's been working for 18 months now.. Dropping the tank is not that bad if you have a pit or can get the car high enough on stands and it would give you the opportunity to check the flexible tank connector condition and the brake lines for rust at the same time.

Cheers guys