P38 2.5 dse x reg

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Hayleyyy

New Member
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9
Location
Bedfordshire
Hello all.

I am new to the range rover world. Details of car in subject.

Disclaimer. I have some mechanical knowledge but my weapon of choice daily is a type r, so I'm approaching this problem as a newbie.


Bought a 2.5dse. Was happily shouting peasent at passers by out the window then switched off at the petrol station, big bang and coolant everywhere.

Return pipe from the heater matrix on engine side had burst a huge whole in it. Got it out the way then waited for the rac who cut it down reattached then put some more water in and followed us home. The pipe was very perished so an obvious weak spots for any pressure.

Today had a look at it and it seems definate pressure in the system. We bled it for ages and it still pressurised the radiator left side top hose when driven. Didn't pressurise when standing still.

Temp gauge also doesn't want to move much above cold. Plan is to replace hoses and stat but didn't take it apart today as we will replace regardless. Was pointless taking it apart twice. I have some pics when I can figure out how to.


Probably missed a few points so please ask if anything could help
 
Is this a new to you purchase? Check the cheap options first.has the radiator got the baffle in place? Remove rad and put a marble in one of the outlets and see if it will roll out of the other, if it won't then the baffle is in place. Replace all suspect hoses, and if the gauge won't rise above cold, the thermostat. Once bled,get it hot and try stopping the fan with a rolled up newspaper ,if it stops then the viscous coupling has failedI if it is a new purchase then the previous owner may have removed the thermostat to disguise an overheating fault.
 
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I'd also check the little sensors under the inlet manifold, what year is X? There could be three.
One near the radiator hose, one mid way along the head and possibly a black at the rear end of the head also.
The two more important are the first and midway. One is for the temp gauge and the other for the ECU to know the engine coolant temperature.
On mine I had the both had given up and come loose in the metal fittings. ;)
 
More unlikely but If none of the above, HG failure pressurising system :eek:
Try not to let it give you nightmares, my bet is rad baffle and/or sticky stat, both easy and cheap enough to check/replace. Check everything as Tomcat says first before spending out and report findings here if you need help. It's Process of elimination at first ;)
 
Hey all.

Thanks for advice so far. Trying to rule out smaller problems before HG. Yes it was very new to us but I genuinely don't think the previous owner had a clue. He had a newer 4x4 to tow the caravan with and I did abit of a fb stalk and it does all seem legit.

Water pump, stat and hoses ordered but will look at the rad too.

X is 1999/2000 off top of my head

Everything is on order but also got plans for a new head if required..
 
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Hey all.

Thanks for advice so far. Trying to rule out smaller problems before HG. Yes it was very new to us but I genuinely don't think the previous owner had a clue. He had a newer 4x4 to tow the caravan with and I did abit of a fb stalk and it does all seem legit.

Water pump, stat and hoses ordered but will look at the rad too.

X is 1999/2000 off top of my head

Everything is on order but also got plans for a new head if required..

Holy crap. If you buy everything that might go wrong you'll be skint by the end of the week! These cars can drain a Scotsman's wallet in a month without spending willy-nilly.
 
It's probably not HG. It would be revving rather than moving causing it. these heads are not suitable for skimming but can take a cooking with no probs ;)

You are going right way long term with pump stat n hoses. Check rad with marble.
If your pump falls to bits when you take it out then you have found the problem, try to get all bits out if it does, what type did you order?

Ignore cold gauge for now it's minor sort that later. That as is mark said if not solved by stat.

The cooling system on these can cope with desert climates if working correctly
 
More unlikely but If none of the above, HG failure pressurising system :eek:
Try not to let it give you nightmares, my bet is rad baffle and/or sticky stat, both easy and cheap enough to check/replace. Check everything as Tomcat says first before spending out and report findings here if you need help. It's Process of elimination at first ;)
HG failure is pretty unusual, pressurising is more often a cracked head.
 
Either way you look at it, you could fork out straight away on the head and it not be the problem them start working up the above or do what I have mentioned above and possibly be lucky. Either way if the head needs replacing atleast the cooling system is overhauled
 
The way to look at it is as @tomcat59alan mentioned, then as Grrr and piercy said, in that order.

I.E. - to methodically test individual components BEFORE forking out.
If you replace a 2yr old £200 BMW water pump with a brand new £30 Br**part out of course, you wont be doing yourself any favours but the practise will come in handy :)

Forget bout the head for now.

- Change your stat, pipes and whatever you forked out on
- check rad baffle is working with marble ; your rad will not function without this. It costs nothing to check
- Give it a good burp and see if it's stopped playing up.

More than likely you will have found your culprit by this point ;)
 
Sorry guys for the slow reply. My uncle lost his battle to leukemia on Thursday.

We used a block tester and it showed the dreaded yellow

Just finished putting the new engine in...
 
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