P38 2.5 DSE Manual Gearbox LHD Sluggish starter motor

Hi I am a brand new Range Rover owner and against much advice decided to take on a P38 problem car that has been sat idle for over 6 months with the engine disabled (owner didnt have the EKA) here on the Algarve in Southern Portugal after a local mechanic crippled the car fitting a new fuel pump (however not totally sure as owner is Portuguese but thats what i understand happened). To cut a long story short i took the car from the owner with a view either to get it running or break it down for parts. Surprisingly there seems to be life in the old girl and she doesn't want to go just yet. I managed to unlock the engine using the default EKA (1515), bought a brand new battery (12v 95 Ah 800a), checked all the fuses under the bonnet, took out the seat and checked all fuses in the BeCM (found the 10amp top left fuse blown so replaced it), checked for damp and corrosion (didn't find anything, its very hot and dry here). Now here is where i get stumped as i dont know whats normal and whats not in a P38. When you turn the ignition i get all lights on the dashboard (Seat Belt, Battery, Oil, ABS, suspension, Heater Coil and i think glow plug light) after a few seconds the seatbelt, glow plug and heater coil go out (as expected) i also get indicators, headlights and the i button on the indicator stalk will change the display, but i get nothing else (no wipers, suspension, sunroof, windows, radio, etc) however maybe this is normal until the engine fires ive no idea. The main problem is i get a very laboured starter motor for maybe 2 cranks then it dies (engine doesnt fire). I have checked the voltage to the starter motor switch and its very low (so i thought fuse box is blown) so i put a direct feed to the starter and although it improves slightly but its still sluggish and manages only 2 or 3 cranks then dies. I have removed the starter motor and found lots of carbon dust inside and one of the 4 carbon brushes more warn than the other 3 but cleaned everything and tested it and the motor spun okay out of the engine. My question is as it sounds to me like a bad starter motor and possible fuse box or does anybody have any other ideas or suggestions before i start buying parts. Any help would be great. Many thanks

Update on the above, i had a dud battery, this has now been replaced and the car cranks perfectly however it appears i am getting some electrical system and not others, i have central locking, headlights, indicators, horn, but no windows, sunroof, fuel filler cap, stereo, air con, heated seats or wing mirrors, is this a classic case of ECU not synced with the BeCM? As various things are working and others not its hard to say if i have fuel pump power (no fuel appears to be coming through), how can i check the fuel pump supply as its buried under the rear of the car so ive been told and you have to either start cutting the floor or dropping the tank to access it?

Petecorbs said:

Update on the above, i had a dud battery, this has now been replaced and the car cranks perfectly however it appears i am getting some electrical system and not others, i have central locking, headlights, indicators, horn, but no windows, sunroof, fuel filler cap, stereo, air con, heated seats or wing mirrors, is this a classic case of ECU not synced with the BeCM? As various things are working and others not its hard to say if i have fuel pump power (no fuel appears to be coming through), how can i check the fuel pump supply as its buried under the rear of the car so ive been told and you have to either start cutting the floor or dropping the tank to access it?

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Reference fuel lift pump see my guide of how to check flow in Tech Archives. Top left hand side of page. Download RAVE for mechanical manuals and wiring diagrams. Reading through this may help. http://www.p38rangerover.com/index.php/fuses-and-relays/engine-bay-fuse-box.html

I am getting power through the fuse box to the fuel pump fuse, but to be honest there are so many different electrical things not working i fear its something more serious possibly ECU or BeCM, i have central locking (except fuel flap lock), headlights and indicators, i can also get engine crank, glow lamp and coil lights are functioning on the dash (so i assume im getting power to them as well), however suspension, windows, sunroof and all other dashboard switch-able items including the stereo is dead. I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction of most likely problem as i am completely new to the P38 and have no idea.

Also on the BeCM as i checked all the fuses i get a full 12 volts (just over) on all of them except the 2 centre 10 amps on the top row and the single 10 amp below on the lower row, is this also normal or does that show BeCM issues?

Petecorbs said:

I am getting power through the fuse box to the fuel pump fuse, but to be honest there are so many different electrical things not working i fear its something more serious possibly ECU or BeCM, i have central locking (except fuel flap lock), headlights and indicators, i can also get engine crank, glow lamp and coil lights are functioning on the dash (so i assume im getting power to them as well), however suspension, windows, sunroof and all other dashboard switch-able items including the stereo is dead. I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction of most likely problem as i am completely new to the P38 and have no idea.

Also on the BeCM as i checked all the fuses i get a full 12 volts (just over) on all of them except the 2 centre 10 amps on the top row and the single 10 amp below on the lower row, is this also normal or does that show BeCM issues?

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Hevac radio dash etc Fuse 1. EAS fuse 17. EAS delay relay fuse 24 in engine bay fuse box. Download the RAVE manual as advised for all other info. Look at the link posted.

Thanks for the reply Wammers, i have indeed read through the link you suggested and downloaded RAVE very helpful but as i am unsure how a P38 should operate under normal circumstances, i am possibly missing something obvious.
I am getting just over 12 volts to the Fuse box under bonnet and 12 to the ECU (the 80amp fuse is also intact on the ECU and i am also receiving 12 volts through the fuses under the hood and to the BeCM (accept for the 3 x 10 amp fuses in the very centre of the BeCM fuse box), as i imagine the BeCM runs all of the things that are not working Windows, suspension, fuel etc would i be right in saying that the problem lies within the BeCM. I think for the first cheap option i will replace all the relays and fuses under the bonnet and fuses on the outside of the BeCM, is there another fuse board anywhere i could be missing?