L322 P0046 - Where is the boost control solenoid?

I've mentioned recently that I've "treated myself" to a 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue to replace my fully mechanically sorted 2010 3.6 TDV8 Vogue. Perhaps not the biggest of upgrades or changes but I really wanted the 4.4, 8 speed and an ivory trim, all of which this car has. It has also only covered 88k miles and is essentially a very nice car that will in time be a fully sorted late model L322 and that's my goal. I didn't have budget for a really nice late model with a dealer warranty so I did what any Landyzone member would do and purchased a broken one. Smart eh?

Anyway, I'm working through a few issues, my main one is a boost issue for this week. I will check for leaks of course and I have taken off the donut manifold, cleaned the EGR, inspected all the rubbers etc. which all appears fine. I'm fairly sure that it's not an air leak issue as I get a couple of codes immediately:

P0046-77 (2F) Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid - circuit range/performance - Mechanical failure - commanded position is not reachable
P0045-13 (2F) Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid circuit/open - General electrical failure - circuit open

The first one, P0046 has been there all of the time I've owned the car (10 days roughly) but P0045 is new, last night to be exact. The logical part of my brain (not the part in control of purchasing Land Rovers) suggests that these two go hand in hand and the boost issues I am seeing are likely caused by these.

It is worth mentioning that there is evidence of rodent damage under the bonnet, some of the foam is chewed and a couple of wires to the MAF on the secondary air box have been repaired as well as a few other bits of tape and connectors can be seen around the engine bay. I will work through all of this in time to properly solder and heat shrink the wires. My concern is that there could be other damage to wiring that hasn't been found.

I need to locate the boost control solenoid and that's what I'm after the help with. I know there is a changeover valve for the secondary turbo but I believe that the primary has an electronic actuator on it too. Can any of you confirm this?

In the past I have paid for a Topix subscription and downloaded the full manual for the 3.6 and the wife's D4 but I haven't done this one yet as I've not had time or the inclination to sit for hours organising PDFs so if any of you would be kind enough to support my laziness and just tell me, I'd be most grateful.

Also, please let me have your thoughts and experiences on these engines. On the whole, I am over the moon with the car and am loving the difference between the 3.6 and 4.4 as it has far exceeded my expectations. I really hope I don't need to fit a replacement turbo. Cost aside, it's the fitting that bothers me most.

Do you have the full fault code?
From what I can make out that code mainly refers to the VGT actuation, and I could only find reference to the ECM controlling it

J

Thanks Jon, I thought you might have the info I needed .

P0045-13 (2F) Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid circuit/open - General electrical failure - circuit open
P0046-77 (6C) Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid - circuit range/performance - Mechanical failure - commanded position is not reachable

From looking at the the PDF you uploaded it must be the one on the actual turbo itself, which is rather unsettling if it's not a wiring fault leading to it. Do you have. diagram of which side has the primary turbo with the electronic VGT actuator? If I'm correct in assuming there is only one with that on it..?

It feels as though that is the issue and if it can't change the angle of the blades as required that would immediately cause the Restricted Performance.

I was getting P0046 beforehand so it could be a chewed wire that had high resistance and has now failed completely (he says clutching at straws). We know where this is heading don't we? Can't wait!

Hows this does it explain enough for you, do you need wiring too?

J

If you have wiring that would be really helpful as I am praying that's where the issue is. There is some definite rodent damage on the RHS above the head and wiring that's been repaired there so I feel that's a free and easy check to do. Continuity is a good start if you know the colours you're working with.

That PDF is really helpful too as, I'm not sure why but I had it in my head that the LH turbo was the primary and I see I was wrong about that but it does help to explain why the secondary airbox has so much oil in it, this car has only really done short runs and barely been worked I think so it's got quite the accumulation of oil in it. At some point I think it will be beneficial to remove the changeover valve and clean that out. One thing at a time eh?

I need to psych myself up for a late night with a Topix subscription here very soon. For anyone that is considering it, there's an art to doing it quickly and accurately but it's well worth the £50 (or whatever it is) for a 24h subscription, I just factor that into the purchase of the vehicle myself.

Blob said:

I need to psych myself up for a late night with a Topix subscription here very soon. For anyone that is considering it, there's an art to doing it quickly and accurately but it's well worth the £50 (or whatever it is) for a 24h subscription, I just factor that into the purchase of the vehicle myself.

Click to expand...

Couldn't agree more.

Quick look in my files revealed this.

J

Small update, after waaaay too much procrastinating, I finally jacked the car up last night, removed the wheel to and found that the boost control solenoid is actually quite easy to get to. In my state of gratified astonishment I then went about removing the circlip that holds the actuator rod to see if the linkage was seized and it wasn't at all. I've inspected all of the wiring that I can see to find no damage at all.

Although LR call it a solenoid, it definitely isn't as it is 5 wire with a multi position and feeds info back to the ECM, I'd say it was a stepper motor or actuator but that's just my opinion.

As it looks as though it can be removed without the need to remove the turbo I wondered if I might be able to gamble on a secondhand unit and simply remove the actuator to test the wiring and maybe fit that. A quick search on eBay revealed that these parts are readily available (aftermarket) for under £100. SO I've ordered one this morning to see if that fixes the issue. I hate "Parts Darts" normally but at that money, it has to be worth a punt. It has a 2 year warranty (set expectations low for cheap parts). It should arrive tomorrow so hopefully by Saturday evening I'll know if it's fixed or not.