opinions on waxoyl treatment?
- Thread starter Rich123
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cas62
Member
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- 26
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- Perthshire, Scotland
I've got a 110 hardtop and did underseal and waxoyled myself. Got proper wet and messy jet washing off, left it to dry. Bought undersea land gun off eBay, used empty under seal can to put waxoyl in. Can get waxoyl off eBay too. If you do it yourself at least you know what's been done. Won't cost hundreds either!
Rattlegun
Well-Known Member
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- 970
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- Rhondda, Wales
lol undersea land gun heheh
Forget waxoil on spray cans, tried em and are crap. Wait till better weather jet wash,wire brush paint and then waxoil. Have you got a compressor? I apply waxoil with a paraffin gun get waxoil warm add a bit of white spirit and spray on and into chassis and anywhere else. Take a door hinge screw out of bulkhead and spray in there. You will be surprised how much a 5 litre can covers. Enjoy getting covered in it and there will be change out of £100 including a supermarket compressor if you have not got one.
RobertP
Active Member
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- 320
...and you'll end up with a lovely waterproof drive! 
" and you will end up with a lovely waterproof drive!" Do the wax application on a cheap poly tarpaulin and you won't. Using a paraffin gun is very controlled so not much mess, I do mine every summer prior to MOT. Complete chassis/underbody, springs and axles.
honolulujoe
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I did the underneath of one of mine, first coated it with fertan which is a water based rust converter so you can still put it on if the chassis is damp.
used black dinitrol and a schutz gun via compressor, you can get the dinitrol black in schutz containers - might be able to get waxoyl in them too, never looked - then all you do is stick the gun on the container and you are good to go, sprays really easily.
if you haven't got a compressor it may be worth paying someone else, but if you are going to do it regularly you would be better spending the £400 on a compressor and gun plus materials, then you have the kit for the next time.
used black dinitrol and a schutz gun via compressor, you can get the dinitrol black in schutz containers - might be able to get waxoyl in them too, never looked - then all you do is stick the gun on the container and you are good to go, sprays really easily.
if you haven't got a compressor it may be worth paying someone else, but if you are going to do it regularly you would be better spending the £400 on a compressor and gun plus materials, then you have the kit for the next time.
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
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- richmond surrey
sealey do a schutz gun with disposable heads so when you have finished you don't have to fart about cleaning out the gun just stick a new head on it.
I can look up the model number if you want it
I can look up the model number if you want it
I actually got on ok with the spray cans, with zero mess probably they dont do as industrial a job as a full blown compressor and gun set but its been ok for me, as for wire brushing, its ok.....for the bits you can get to but the bits you cant are the bits that are going to rot. Hammer off the crispy bits, power wire brush everything you can get to and apply a good couple of coats, whether from aerosol or gun, get as much as you can within reason and sensible coverage down the inside of the chassis legs and you should be fine. I also do mine every year before MOT, following a quick hammer check. Couple of spray cans of dinitrol and she looks good.
Thanks for the replys. Think il give it a go myself. sure my dad bought a compressor from aldi or lidl years ago and it is still in box unused.lol. what are the areas that are a problem to get too and to get it into chassis/bulkhead do i jus fill every hole i can see.
cheers
cheers
300AJC
New Member
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- Chelveston, Northants
Where are you based? If not far from Nene at Peterborough then phone around. I have just bought a Disco and it was wax oiled at a Land Rover dealer in Bedford last year. The receipt shows it was les than £200.
I understand this is an old thread I'm jumping on guys but I got my 90 done at our local LR dealer for £240 last weekend. Thing is, after I have managed to get under it and have a proper look about, it turns out they ain't don't the top sides of the our riggers, inside of rear member or any of the inside box section on the main chassis! They didn't even hose out the inside of the chassis members never mind the drain hole bungs at the front end... It's going back to them tomorrow, I WILL get money back, OR they WILL do the quoted "full chassis treatment" at no extra cost.
The gaffer actually said (when I rang to complain) " oh no mate, we never hose out the inside of the box section, we just put the probe in the drain holes and spray"
" so you usually just spray it over the damp crap that's stuck in there?"
"Yep"
" oh well thank Christ you didn't even attempt the drain holes on mine then!"
"What do you want us to do about it like?"
" DO THE BLOODY JOB YOU ARE CHARGING ME FOR!!!"
"Right mate, bring it in Friday"
"Oh I will"
Phone goes down, malt comes out.....breath.....
Anybody else had similar issues? I'll be doing the bloody doors etc myself with the spray can stuff next week, any advice?
The gaffer actually said (when I rang to complain) " oh no mate, we never hose out the inside of the box section, we just put the probe in the drain holes and spray"
" so you usually just spray it over the damp crap that's stuck in there?"
"Yep"
" oh well thank Christ you didn't even attempt the drain holes on mine then!"
"What do you want us to do about it like?"
" DO THE BLOODY JOB YOU ARE CHARGING ME FOR!!!"
"Right mate, bring it in Friday"
"Oh I will"
Phone goes down, malt comes out.....breath.....
Anybody else had similar issues? I'll be doing the bloody doors etc myself with the spray can stuff next week, any advice?
Turboman
Mab An Gov
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Don't apologise, really impressed you searched, most just pitch in with another fred!
Quite a big and expensive job to do it all properly, lot of time on the washing and drying. So a thorough job will be dearer than that. Maybe one of those its better to do yourself.
Myself I like the dinitrol products as oppsed to Waxoyl, I paint the outside, Dinitrol inside, more likely to penetrate any deposits inside that didn't get washed out, much thinner. Waxoyl is ok for outside.
Looking in through the many holes, using an endoscope, is a good idea, you can see the stuff inside, if any, and any existing rust.
Best of luck with the garage, hope they sort it out for you.
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
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- richmond surrey
historically I prefer dinitrol to waxoyl too, this paper has appeared in a couple of threads, originally posted by saltlick, makes interesting reading
http://www.bilthamber.com/media/downloads/32/PG-BH13-001.pdf
I will probably try some of the bilt hamber stuff next time I do one, the only way to be sure rust treatment is done properly is to do it yourself.
if there is surface rust or bare metal on the chassis I treat with fertan first.
www.fertan.co.uk
http://www.bilthamber.com/media/downloads/32/PG-BH13-001.pdf
I will probably try some of the bilt hamber stuff next time I do one, the only way to be sure rust treatment is done properly is to do it yourself.
if there is surface rust or bare metal on the chassis I treat with fertan first.
www.fertan.co.uk
Nice one guys,
As I am new to this car ownership thing I didn't want to just ram bash on and be the guy with "all the gear and no idea" , "more money than sense" etc etc, so just thought I would let the very reputable dealer sort it and try to undo their first £&ck up.
Just arrived back with my brand sparkly new 15 plate 90 heritage courtesy car.... FULL TANK OF FUEL!
Whilst there the manager came out with me in the rain which I felt was a good sign, shows real concern and good customer relations if the BOSS get his suit pants dirty to have a look. Showed him the missed bits where the lift had been, the rear tub support things that look like a swan neck(apparently not the outriggers), then showed him...with my own finger...that it was clear the internal area hadn't even been cleaned let alone sprayed with the probe!
"I am very sorry Mr Mitchell, I agree this is unacceptable, rest assured that the lad who did the original work will be the one getting &h1t up again when he does the proper job!"
I will be inspecting it on the forecourt before I take her away this time tho!
In future I intend to do things like this myself. Dinitrol will bee looked at as the internal option. But now it's all been waxoyled, how THE HELL do I clean the chassis out in a couple of years time?
As I am new to this car ownership thing I didn't want to just ram bash on and be the guy with "all the gear and no idea" , "more money than sense" etc etc, so just thought I would let the very reputable dealer sort it and try to undo their first £&ck up.
Just arrived back with my brand sparkly new 15 plate 90 heritage courtesy car.... FULL TANK OF FUEL!
Whilst there the manager came out with me in the rain which I felt was a good sign, shows real concern and good customer relations if the BOSS get his suit pants dirty to have a look. Showed him the missed bits where the lift had been, the rear tub support things that look like a swan neck(apparently not the outriggers), then showed him...with my own finger...that it was clear the internal area hadn't even been cleaned let alone sprayed with the probe!
"I am very sorry Mr Mitchell, I agree this is unacceptable, rest assured that the lad who did the original work will be the one getting &h1t up again when he does the proper job!"
I will be inspecting it on the forecourt before I take her away this time tho!
In future I intend to do things like this myself. Dinitrol will bee looked at as the internal option. But now it's all been waxoyled, how THE HELL do I clean the chassis out in a couple of years time?
