Not starting after un-seizing boost pin, please help

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Career 707

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51
Hi all, wonder if I can get some help.

Been having problems with my turbo, after a few investigations I found that the governor pin in the Injector pump top cover was seized solid.

I tried releasing the governor pin by removing the diaphragm and squirting brake and clutch cleaner in the space where the boost pin goes, however, the diaphragm was seized solid i couldn't extract the diaphragm as the governor pin would not release so had to resort in completely removing the top cover on the injector pump.

Having successfully unseized the governor pin and refitted the Fuel Pump top cover the engine will not start, it turns over no problem. Fuel is getting to the fuel filter by actuating the fuel lift pump lever (fuel filter is full), however having disconnected number 1 injector fuel pipe and again using the fuel lift pump lever and also using the starter to turn the engine over there is no fuel coming out of the number 1 injector feed pipe.

Have I missed something. Has anyone else had a similar issue after removing the fuel pump top cover?,

Thanks in advance

Carl
 
Career 707 said:
Hi all, wonder if I can get some help.

Been having problems with my turbo, after a few investigations I found that the governor pin in the Injector pump top cover was seized solid.

I tried releasing the governor pin by removing the diaphragm and squirting brake and clutch cleaner in the space where the boost pin goes, however, the diaphragm was seized solid i couldn't extract the diaphragm as the governor pin would not release so had to resort in completely removing the top cover on the injector pump.

Having successfully unseized the governor pin and refitted the Fuel Pump top cover the engine will not start, it turns over no problem. Fuel is getting to the fuel filter by actuating the fuel lift pump lever (fuel filter is full), however having disconnected number 1 injector fuel pipe and again using the fuel lift pump lever and also using the starter to turn the engine over there is no fuel coming out of the number 1 injector feed pipe.

Have I missed something. Has anyone else had a similar issue after removing the fuel pump top cover?,

Thanks in advance

Carl
Click to expand...

How far is the fuel actually getting? Is it getting to the FIP? Remove the feed pipe from the lift pump, start the car (turn it over) and make sure the lift pump is actually doing it’s job. Use a small pop bottle or glass, something you can actually see what’s happening.
 
Flossie said:
Dunno about the pump strip bit but have you possibly knocked the stop solenoid off/loose?
Click to expand...

No the stop solenoid Is still connected and hasn't been touched, I only removed the fuel pump top cover, I have removed the tickover screw to get access to the bolt beneath it and also the fueling screw (at the time of removal i wasn't sure if it needed removing to extract the top cover)
 
The slot on the top of the throttle spindle. Which direction is it pointing at if the front of the vehicle is 12 O clock?

Cheers
 
  • Thanks Mick, from what I can see the fuel is getting to the fuel filter as it starts out on depression of the fuel lift lever.
  • The slot on the throttle spindle is at the 8 o Clock position if the front of the vehicle is at 12.
 
Career 707 said:
  • Thanks Mick, from what I can see the fuel is getting to the fuel filter as it starts out on depression of the fuel lift lever.
  • The slot on the throttle spindle is at the 8 o Clock position if the front of the vehicle is at 12.
Click to expand...

If your certain it’s not the stop solenoid, then the next thing to do is see how far fuel is getting. The work you have done on the FIP might have highlighted an unserviceable LP. Check to see if it pumps using engine crank, not the priming lever. If it does, work forward until you get to the point of the fuel stopping.

Other than having a little play with the diaphragm, I haven’t really touched the FIP on mine, but I’m guessing them two screws you have adjusted are quite important. Did you measure their visible length, or count their turns before removal?
 
As for lengths of fuel screw, idle screw and throttle slot position, I did take photos of all three prior to removing, however, the photos were saved to my sd-card which appears that the last handful of photos are corrupted including these 3. Which sucks.

One thing I can remember prior to pulling off the throttle cable housing is that both ends of the spring were pretty much aligned with each other.

I have replicated this once fitted, another thing that appears to be correct, the governor pin lever (within the top cover) prior to the top cover being removed would move slightly and hit the pin, this I also believe is true after refitting.

One thing that I've not done is bled the fip, I'll see if I can do that now I don't have a garage so I'm attempting to do this in the dark.
 
Career 707 said:
I have replicated this once fitted, another thing that appears to be correct, the governor pin lever (within the top cover) prior to the top cover being removed would move slightly and hit the pin, this I also believe is true after refitting.
Click to expand...

If you actuate the throttle on the lever the gov pin will pop back into position.
If you remove the diaphragm you can see it to check. Push it back home with a screwdriver tip and refit the boost pin. The pull the throttle lever quite quickly and it will pop back.

I stripped my pump completely and when I refitted it I made the mistake of thinking the throttle spindle slot position would be at the 8 to 2 O clock position, ( as I had measured the stop positions lengths etc. But I cleaned off the paint marks on the throttle spindle) as this is where it naturally stops at on rotation in the idle position. I found it had to be at 06:30 to 12:30.Otherwise the engine would not run.

Cheers
 
Also, on top of the previous post above this one.

Did you make sure that you had the throttle spindle in the right orientation when you refitted the cover and had not turned it 180 degrees?
So this is the slot I have mentioned.
upload_2020-10-23_19-18-13.png


and this shows the correct position of the throttle spindle to the internal mech.
upload_2020-10-23_19-19-17.png


All this is taken from this write up in the attachments.


Cheers
 

Attachments

  • throttle spindle.pdf
    409.9 KB · Views: 167
Neilly, thank you I'll have to do that tomorrow weather permitting, I've just done a few checks, loosened fuel filter bleed screw and the fuel injection pump fuel inlet Union and kicked over the engine and fuel exits both areas fuel filter and fip fuel inlet, also stop solenoid works with ignition on, replace wire on stop solenoid and a click is heard.
 
Career 707 said:
Neilly, thank you I'll have to do that tomorrow weather permitting, I've just done a few checks, loosened fuel filter bleed screw and the fuel injection pump fuel inlet Union and kicked over the engine and fuel exits both areas fuel filter and fip fuel inlet, also stop solenoid works with ignition on, replace wire on stop solenoid and a click is heard.
Click to expand...

I think you are making progress now. I think we can assume fuel is reaching the FIP, and now it’s down to setting all the bits you messed around with. Hopefully between you and @neilly you can get it running.
 
Career 707 said:
Neilly, thank you I'll have to do that tomorrow weather permitting, I've just done a few checks, loosened fuel filter bleed screw and the fuel injection pump fuel inlet Union and kicked over the engine and fuel exits both areas fuel filter and fip fuel inlet, also stop solenoid works with ignition on, replace wire on stop solenoid and a click is heard.
Click to expand...

I am sure it will be OK, at the start of lockdown I got bored and did this to one of my pumps, Amazingly it still works.
IMG_1596.JPG


Did you remove it from the vehicle?


Cheers
 
Neilly, no the pump was installed in the vehicle, lol any more than 5 components I'd be lost, I would probably end up with 6 components left over after rebuild if I did that. And you were bored.
 
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