Not As Easy To Re-Jack Point L322 As Thought

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nevillen

nevillen

Well-Known Member
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Well the Old girl went in for replacement hips (jack points) and we were full of enthusiasm that Alan The Welder would steam in and sort her out. Alas as this is a 2005 Rangey the job has turned into a full emergency operation! Alan has fabricated all the parts for both sides and completed one side,
2 +1/2 days so far...When I said there would be loads of people who would want similar welding on their RR's he said" I never want to work on one of these EVER again!" So I am afraid that is the end of that. I had hoped to be able to pass his details on but he doesn't want me to! He previously worked on defenders, classics and L38's without problems, he also told me that when BMW sold the Range Rover brand to Ford they 'assumed' Ford would fill all the cavaties with sealant, which they didn't, hence the rageing rust at the rear and 'acres' of gap between main chassis parts that should have been filled. He is priming and then stone chipping ahead of pick up, hopefully today and then we are going to use expanding foam through the 'portals' that BMW left originally to be water proofed. Not sure what the overall cost will be, but I fear it will be a lot more than we first thought due to the amount of rust there actually was once all the panels were off. Will post finished article images assuming no more disasters turn up today....now I know why so many people just 'junk' their old L322's!
 
Absolutely avoid foam. Agree with Waxoyl. I treated the important bits with Bilt hamber dynax UB but due to cost rest of the car got treated with traditional Waxoyl (yellow tin not the under body seal) bought the sprayer that they sell with it, heated it in can within bucket of boiled water, made it go on easy and very thin to creep into joints. Hopefully hold off the corrosion.
Mine did get a advisory couple of years back for rear subframe corrosion but not weak, once I’d bought it I went at it with hammer and it was only heavy surface rust, absolutely solid underneath.
 
Also every month after washing I pull the corner of sill cover away from inside rear doors, and under the arch where it lips round and squirt some chain lube in, seems to work well for fast easy application and full of corrosion inhibitors.
 
rich28uk said:
Absolutely avoid foam. Agree with Waxoyl. I treated the important bits with Bilt hamber dynax UB but due to cost rest of the car got treated with traditional Waxoyl (yellow tin not the under body seal) bought the sprayer that they sell with it, heated it in can within bucket of boiled water, made it go on easy and very thin to creep into joints. Hopefully hold off the corrosion.
Mine did get a advisory couple of years back for rear subframe corrosion but not weak, once I’d bought it I went at it with hammer and it was only heavy surface rust, absolutely solid underneath.
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I'm a bit more adventurous than you, I heat Waxoil on a camping gaz stove and spray it on hot with a gravity feed spray gun:eek:
 
Waxoyl is crap.
To be fair most of the chassis waxes are on a hiding to nothing, unless you spend an eternity prepping the thing.
 
rich28uk said:
I’d love a proper spray gun but no air compressor at moment.
I do have a camping gaz stove. How was it? I’m guessing it didn’t just go up in flames!
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Care needed use a low flame, I heat until I can hear it bubble. No more dangerous then a deep fat chip fryer IMO.
The hot waxoil creeps into places that it just does not reach when cold.
 
lynall said:
Waxoyl is crap.
To be fair most of the chassis waxes are on a hiding to nothing, unless you spend an eternity prepping the thing.
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You are entitled to you opinion but I have used Waxoil for decades and found that it works very well with very little prepping needed.
Dintrol is, or was probably better but very expensive by comparison. Ziebart was another anti rust treatment but not available to the public, had to be done by an approved place.
 
Datatek said:
You are entitled to you opinion but I have used Waxoil for decades and found that it works very well with very little prepping needed.
Dintrol is, or was probably better but very expensive by comparison. Ziebart was another anti rust treatment but not available to the public, had to be done by an approved place.
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My Capri 2.0S was Zeibarted from new every enclosed box section had yellow plastic plugs in them loads of them everwhere the only rust it had was surface on the front panel due to stone chips...
 
lynall said:
Waxoyl is crap.
To be fair most of the chassis waxes are on a hiding to nothing, unless you spend an eternity prepping the thing.
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Again some people don’t like it but I find it works fine if applied / topped up each year and applied warm and thin. Most seem to slap it on an inch thick, that’s when water seems to get behind and eat the steel away, or apply cold and it doesn’t creep so again steel rots away, think that’s where people go off it, if applied thin and hot seems fine, personally I prefer to apply and performance of Bilt hamber UB, but at £14-16 a can it’s costly to treat what’s nearly a 20 year old car all over, where treat the more exposed areas with BH UB and less exposed with Waxoyl for what’s in my view a decent and cost effective treatment, and as a regular suspension and quick spray, chain lube as it sticks and is anti corrosive.
 
PXL_20230331_174001276.jpg PXL_20230331_174019117.jpg PXL_20230331_174025631.jpg PXL_20230331_174042576.jpg PXL_20230331_174110316.jpg PXL_20230331_174136918.jpg PXL_20230331_174031496.jpg Here we go, raining cats and dogs here so no proper pictures until tomorrow, bit of treatment then a quick stone chip followed by some insulation, NOT FOAM! but Waxol. 21 hours at £30 per hour including fabricating ALL the sections in heavy guage! Unfortunately like I said, he doesn't want to do any more RR's!
 
Looks like few of them welds struggled to take. As often happens with mig if there’s any muck on the surface, stick is easier like that for burning through muck but can’t really stick weld a car being so thin. Long as it’s sorted and treated should keep it going. Keep eye on subframes! If they go it can write of a car. Clean it and treat it.
 
rich28uk said:
Looks like few of them welds struggled to take. As often happens with mig if there’s any muck on the surface, stick is easier like that for burning through muck but can’t really stick weld a car being so thin. Long as it’s sorted and treated should keep it going. Keep eye on subframes! If they go it can write of a car. Clean it and treat it.
Click to expand...
Yep, the problem as you said is the guage you are welding on to, but given the circumstances he did a good job. It will look more pleasing on the eye after a bit of rust eat treatment on the peripherals and a coat of stone chip, most importantly he ensured the metal behind the arches was good, which is a massive relief, if it goes there then it is the subframe next! Think we missed a bullet but shows how easy it is to mess up with an old RR if you don't show due dilligence.
 
Yea, iv not welded much on cars only the odd bit but farther in law has been at it donkeys and every car is same, start welding and either won’t take and just spits or blows holes, once you get power and wire feed sorted then it’s normally ok… until you get a bit that doesn’t want to play ball.
End of the day doesn’t matter if it’s not pretty, long as it’s solid, keep her on the road, subframes seem to look worse than they are mine looked awful but after some brushes, hammering with a welder chipping hammer it’s knocked of the rust and was solid, they seem to go first we’re the body mount it, on rear subframe, rear most mounts, probs because there in the muck firing line, try clean it up, get long thin screwdriver inside where the mount is, scrap the build up out then blast it with wax.
 
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