Freelander 1 Newbie FL 'Owner'(Be Gentle)

Hello, Just purchased an FL 1 TD4 for my daughter. Nice car that has a few issues. Reading up on here(before I bought it/joined Landyzone) and elsewhere I have managed to avoid buying a 'dog'(I hope) but as mentioned above the car has issues. I will service the car as recommended on here(not the basic garage stuff) that will include sorting EGR valve(either severe clean/already had a play) or do the delete(any dash lights on Face lift model afterwards?) and as a minimum PCV service and MAF clean. I have ordered the PCV upgrade anyway. Fuel filter replacement also. Regards injectors, in the short term have added Wynns Injector cleaner to a full tank of premium fuel, in the short term. The car runs well, to a point, then it will 'chug' at idle, usually when warm/after a 'run'. I also noticed the temp gauge is 'wayward', it goes up and down like a 'whores drawers' and seldom gets to temp(on the gauge at least) on a run, even in slower traffic. Little or no heat in cab/thru fan. Air con is quite cold. Fans(at rad) do work and come on. Noticed that the header cap is never pressurised. Haven't lost coolant AFAIK/can see. Will replace cap initially but thinking 'lazy' thermostat/possible air lock. Going back to EGR had a go at cleaning it(NOT very well/limited time etc) and the car drove excellently on a 15 mile test run after. Got home, put it in reverse and started 'chugging' again. Coolant temperature sensor/Cam sensor maybe? Plucking at a few strawers admittedly but any advice, comments very welcome. Best Malcolm

Hi and welcome to the madhouse.

We recommend all new FL1 owner's do the 1 wheel up test asap.

For fuel injector cleaning, use Comma Diesel Magic. It's better than Wynns and cheaper too. Use it monthly to keep the injectors happy.
Change oil and use 5w40 or 10w40, not 5w30. Fit a quality replacement oil filter and air filter. Your wayward temperature is going to be the thermostat. They fail open, so stopping the engine reaching running temp.
If the EGR valve has been active for anything over 50K miles, the inlet manifold will be clogged up with goop. This could explain the slight chugging you are getting.It won't be the cam sensor, that's only used for starting.

Great many than

Nodge68 said:

Hi and welcome to the madhouse.

We recommend all new FL1 owner's do the 1 wheel up test asap.

For fuel injector cleaning, use Comma Diesel Magic. It's better than Wynns and cheaper too. Use it monthly to keep the injectors happy.
Change oil and use 5w40 or 10w40, not 5w30. Fit a quality replacement oil filter and air filter. Your wayward temperature is going to be the thermostat. They fail open, so stopping the engine reaching running temp.
If the EGR valve has been active for anything over 50K miles, the inlet manifold will be clogged up with goop. This could explain the slight chugging you are getting.It won't be the cam sensor, that's only used for starting.

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Great, Many thanks for the advice, especially regards the 'One wheel up' test. Seen some conflicting reports on it effectiveness but I will do it. EGR , inlets are the first fix I will do(partially done already) an have ordered an OEM service kit but think the oil is 5 30 weight. Oh well, can use it to swish out most of the old stuff(the car was serviced recently.....but by whom?) So all the usual filters to will be done too. Picked up that Wynn's stuff in Halford but got swayed by the gold letters an black box the other stuff cam in. Must have been a Magpie in a previous life? Underneath, after I have do the IRD/VC wheel up thing I will drop the oil on the IRD/Diff and gearbox too. Then I will know where I stand if everything is okay.a baseline so to speak. Oh and the thermostat....looks fun from what I have read so far. Will do that too! Will try and post some photos when I get the chance and maybe do a YouTube thing too(never done that/could do with my 15 mins or fame).....Thanks once again

5w30 oil makes an older TD4 feel harsh as it's too thin. The 1WUT is definitely worth doing. It's the only, effective, easy to do diy, test at our disposal.

Definitely worth checking the condition of the oils in the IRD and diff

I suffer from Magpie syndrome too. I tell myself, all that glitters isn't gold!!

One of my clients favourite quotes is:

"

Nodge68 said:

5w30 oil makes an older TD4 feel harsh as it's too thin. The 1WUT is definitely worth doing. It's the only, effective, easy to do diy, test at our disposal.

Definitely worth checking the condition of the oils in the IRD and diff

I suffer from Magpie syndrome too. I tell myself, all that glitters isn't gold!!

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The Golden Rule?

'He who has all the Gold, Makes all the rules '

That's Scottish Mafia for you!!

Careful when you do the oil change. Lots of people put too much oil in. This stops the engine getting up to temperature. As you mentioned this. Look in the owners manual at the dip stick markers, the full mark is lower down than you would expect.
Mike

Skinny Mike said:

Careful when you do the oil change. Lots of people put too much oil in. This stops the engine getting up to temperature. As you mentioned this. Look in the owners manual at the dip stick markers, the full mark is lower down than you would expect.
Mike

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Cheers Mike. It was fine, must have checked it 29 time between leaving where I bought it and flying back here to work. BUT I will check it again when I get back. Wouldn't be the first time I'v fuc£3d up!!

Under no circumstances try and clean the MAF sensor you will damage it, by all means clean the MAP sensor on the side of the manifold, once it as been removed, clean it with carb cleaner do not spray directly into the air hold, in fact spray the carb cleaner onto a rag a wipe the MAP, the manifold could do with a good clean out oven cleaner from the pound shop sprayed into it left for an hour or two then jet wash the crap out, all the red gaskets can be reused but wipe them clean.

Arctic2 said:

Under no circumstances try and clean the MAF sensor you will damage it, by all means clean the MAP sensor on the side of the manifold, once it as been removed, clean it with carb cleaner do not spray directly into the air hold, in fact spray the carb cleaner onto a rag a wipe the MAP, the manifold could do with a good clean out oven cleaner from the pound shop sprayed into it left for an hour or two then jet wash the crap out, all the red gaskets can be reused but wipe them clean.

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Ta! Yep oven cleaner from the Pound shop will be a defo for me. Sounds like a job for my daughter. So are you suggesting not to spray spray MAF sensor at all? I have cleaned them before (not on LR's though) with dedicated MAF spray, never with carb cleaner IIRC. I'm listening, not arguing ...Learning more every post. Cheers everyone

MollyNomad said:

Ta! Yep oven cleaner from the Pound shop will be a defo for me. Sounds like a job for my daughter. So are you suggesting not to spray spray MAF sensor at all? I have cleaned them before (not on LR's though) with dedicated MAF spray, never with carb cleaner IIRC. I'm listening, not arguing ...Learning more every post. Cheers everyone

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Remove the MAP sensor from the manifold, before cleaning the goop out. The MAP is very delicate and oven cleaner will destroy it. A gentle clean with carb cleaner on a rag is all that is needed. The hole needs to be clear, but DON'T poke anything into the hole. I spray carb cleaner across the hole, which seems to work well.

Cleaning the MAF is almost pointless, even with the correct MAF cleaner. The heated wire oxidizes over time, reducing MAF output. The only cure for a week MAF is replacement. Unfortunately you need to avoid cheap pattern MAFs too. Only genuine Bosch MAFs produce a strong enough signal, to allow the engine to make full power. Pattern MAFs, while allowing the engine to run OK, stop it from delivering best performance.

Oh and fitting an EGR bypass, doesn't put a light on the dash.

Nodge68 said:

Remove the MAP sensor from the manifold, before cleaning the goop out. The MAP is very delicate and oven cleaner will destroy it. A gentle clean with carb cleaner on a rag is all that is needed. The hole needs to be clear, but DON'T poke anything into the hole. I spray carb cleaner across the hole, which seems to work well.

Cleaning the MAF is almost pointless, even with the correct MAF cleaner. The heated wire oxidizes over time, reducing MAF output. The only cure for a week MAF is replacement. Unfortunately you need to avoid cheap pattern MAFs too. Only genuine Bosch MAFs produce a strong enough signal, to allow the engine to make full power. Pattern MAFs, while allowing the engine to run OK, stop it from delivering best performance.

Oh and fitting an EGR bypass, doesn't put a light on the dash.

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Right now I see it all clearly. Many thanks again. I may just replace the MAF sensor depending on how much the Bocsh item is of course. Funnily enough just waiting on the part for use dishwasher that was made by Bosch. Wonder if it will fit in the FL? ;-) Think I will get my daughter involved in helping out. Can only be a good thing(under supervision of course) Keep the advice coming and I might do the 'dekete' on the EGR if I can't get the crusty original working(so that will be the 'delete' then!!) Many thanks again.