New wheel dilemma... what would you do?

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scott3933

Well-Known Member
Posts
109
Location
Glasgow
Right so I just thought I'd make this post and see what you guys would do.
Back story I got my 110 sitting on 7.50x16 Deestone extra tractions, they worked but they were noisy and lacking grip in the wet, I had to be really careful on wet roundabouts. So I picked up a FB marketplace special set of 4 Continental AT 235/85/R16s on standard 5.5J tubed rims, with tubes in. Currently still using these right now, not loads of tread left on these, and IIRC they are 2011 tyres, but I thought they were good enough to try out this size and see if it worked with the lack of power steering, turning circle etc.

Now im at the point where im happy running 235s, especially after doing my bushes, steering damper etc I can get in and out of my driveway fine, which was my main concern as its fairly tight. So I was thinking I should get a proper set of wheels that are the correct type etc, right width for 235s (I know 5.5J isn't recommended), and tubeless. The obvious answer to this is Wolf rims, so thats what I've been keeping an eye out for.
My first thought was look out for some used Wolf rims and then get the Continental ATs swapped onto them, but then Im not sure if its worth doing that as the tyres don't have the most life left, and also getting hold of a used set of rims seems to be a challenge. They pop up on ebay etc but usually collection only and miles away. I had one breaker offer a set for £200 but I'm not prepared to do a 12 hour round trip to get them.

Now I've seen this breaker posting up sets of used wheels from time to time - The price seems decent to be fair but I'd be a little put off with the tyres having dates as old as 2009. I was considering it though as the tread looks ok, I guess even at that price I could even get 4 tyres changed and keep the best as a spare? The age of the tyres is definitely a little off-putting though.

1757325917004.png


So then that brings me onto new rims and sets of wheels, it seems like the ET0 copies are fairly cheap but the ET20 rims alone are not, £400ish for a set of 5! That makes me consider the above even more. Then I have seen the sets of wheels Crafted ovals sell too, I do quite like the look of their set with the Comforser CF1100 tyres, looks like they are almost BF Goodrich copies? but again, £950 for 4 and I'm still missing a matching spare at that.

So yeah this has been my dilemma for the past week or so. I do want some new wheels that are 'correct' but It seems like im going to have to pay for it. What would you guys do? ...and then this is not getting into the whole Wolf rim studs thing, I'm putting that aside for now!
 
They are a good company to deal with and they do look like original Wolf rims, albeit that they need a clean up and repaint.
The tyres are old but still legal.
I don't think you can get Goodrich M/T's any more.
They're AT KOs I think not MTs... but yeah tread looks good, its just the age. Although right now im running 2011 tyres with less tread so maybe I'm overthinking things as long as they're not cracked etc.

Also I got it wrong about the price of the Wolf copy rims, a set of 5 new ET20s would set me back 450 for literally just the bare rims. Asda tyres has the same Comforser CF1100s I mentioned above for £130 a piece fitted, so 5 of those on new rims comes in at £1100. Where if I bought the above for 500 and needed to replace 4 tyres that comes in at £1020... maybe call it about the same after I've put some effort into cleaning and painting.
 
Them tyres are too old, they will have turned to wood rather than rubber, maybe if they were free but they are not.
As you have found tyres are very expensive now especially BFGs.
If you have drums you have to change the studs for Wolf wheels.
 
Them tyres are too old, they will have turned to wood rather than rubber, maybe if they were free but they are not.
As you have found tyres are very expensive now especially BFGs.
If you have drums you have to change the studs for Wolf wheels.
On the studs I'm not totally sure, I have read some comments saying they do need changed, others saying they don't (with drums). On my 110 there is about the same amount of thread sticking out beyond the nuts all around, all about 1-2mm so im hoping it would be ok as is, if say the wheels are then 3-4mm thicker. I know the topic has been covered to death though so I'm not intending to go down that route... I've done some research anyway!

So impulsive me has done it, I've bought those wheels on the listing figuring that it's only costing me £50 more than 5 new clone rims. Worst case I will pick the best looking one for a spare and get 4x CF1100s mounted on the others. However if at all possible I'd like to try and use these for a bit to spread the cost. If it all ends up costing me about £1000 then I still don't think I would've done too badly tbh.
 
I would imagine they could be hard and interesting in the wet, if used as a daily you might find the tyres start to degrade quickly.
It's a weekend driver only, and right now I'm still resolving issues and building up confidence so not really going that far either. I mean really the continentals I have on right now are actually alright considering they're 14 years old.

I know new rubber is best, absolutely, no denying that but in this situation I've got a Landy that right now is probably covering 100 miles a month and I'm trying to get a decent set of wheels together without breaking the bank.
 
Right so I just thought I'd make this post and see what you guys would do.
Back story I got my 110 sitting on 7.50x16 Deestone extra tractions, they worked but they were noisy and lacking grip in the wet, I had to be really careful on wet roundabouts. So I picked up a FB marketplace special set of 4 Continental AT 235/85/R16s on standard 5.5J tubed rims, with tubes in. Currently still using these right now, not loads of tread left on these, and IIRC they are 2011 tyres, but I thought they were good enough to try out this size and see if it worked with the lack of power steering, turning circle etc.

Now im at the point where im happy running 235s, especially after doing my bushes, steering damper etc I can get in and out of my driveway fine, which was my main concern as its fairly tight. So I was thinking I should get a proper set of wheels that are the correct type etc, right width for 235s (I know 5.5J isn't recommended), and tubeless. The obvious answer to this is Wolf rims, so thats what I've been keeping an eye out for.
My first thought was look out for some used Wolf rims and then get the Continental ATs swapped onto them, but then Im not sure if its worth doing that as the tyres don't have the most life left, and also getting hold of a used set of rims seems to be a challenge. They pop up on ebay etc but usually collection only and miles away. I had one breaker offer a set for £200 but I'm not prepared to do a 12 hour round trip to get them.

Now I've seen this breaker posting up sets of used wheels from time to time - The price seems decent to be fair but I'd be a little put off with the tyres having dates as old as 2009. I was considering it though as the tread looks ok, I guess even at that price I could even get 4 tyres changed and keep the best as a spare? The age of the tyres is definitely a little off-putting though.

View attachment 349439

So then that brings me onto new rims and sets of wheels, it seems like the ET0 copies are fairly cheap but the ET20 rims alone are not, £400ish for a set of 5! That makes me consider the above even more. Then I have seen the sets of wheels Crafted ovals sell too, I do quite like the look of their set with the Comforser CF1100 tyres, looks like they are almost BF Goodrich copies? but again, £950 for 4 and I'm still missing a matching spare at that.

So yeah this has been my dilemma for the past week or so. I do want some new wheels that are 'correct' but It seems like im going to have to pay for it. What would you guys do? ...and then this is not getting into the whole Wolf rim studs thing, I'm putting that aside for now!

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If money’s a bit tight, I’d probably hunt for a set of used Wolf rims and then slap some new tyres on them, keeping the old ones as a spare. That way you can gradually upgrade your setup without dropping a fortune all at once. Plus, it gives you some flexibility if you want to try different tyre brands or sizes down the line without committing to a full new set immediately.
 
If money’s a bit tight, I’d probably hunt for a set of used Wolf rims and then slap some new tyres on them, keeping the old ones as a spare. That way you can gradually upgrade your setup without dropping a fortune all at once. Plus, it gives you some flexibility if you want to try different tyre brands or sizes down the line without committing to a full new set immediately.
I've done a bit of experimenting, that's why I bought the set of Continentals... I wasn't sure if 235/85/16 would be too big (wide), but it works. I definitely can't be going any wider without power steering though... and still retaining its original 1.667 transfer box, I need as large circumference tyre as I can get, which is why I'd settled on this size.

I have looked out for a bare set of wolf rims but they are hard to get it seems. The pop up from time to time but usually somewhere far away and collection only :rolleyes:

I actually feel like I should've just gone all in on a complete new set to begin with, as up to this point I'd bought 2 new Deestone tyres to replace cracked ones, so that was getting on for £250 spent. Then this other set of wheels, £150, so in all I've spent £400 on wheels/tyres so far, and I'm still not where I want to be.
 
It's a weekend driver only, and right now I'm still resolving issues and building up confidence so not really going that far either. I mean really the continentals I have on right now are actually alright considering they're 14 years old.

I know new rubber is best, absolutely, no denying that but in this situation I've got a Landy that right now is probably covering 100 miles a month and I'm trying to get a decent set of wheels together without breaking the bank.
Tbh some new rubber is pretty crap from the word go, have seen truck tyres perish before they wear out.
 
On the studs I'm not totally sure, I have read some comments saying they do need changed, others saying they don't (with drums). On my 110 there is about the same amount of thread sticking out beyond the nuts all around, all about 1-2mm so im hoping it would be ok as is, if say the wheels are then 3-4mm thicker. I know the topic has been covered to death though so I'm not intending to go down that route... I've done some research anyway!

So impulsive me has done it, I've bought those wheels on the listing figuring that it's only costing me £50 more than 5 new clone rims. Worst case I will pick the best looking one for a spare and get 4x CF1100s mounted on the others. However if at all possible I'd like to try and use these for a bit to spread the cost. If it all ends up costing me about £1000 then I still don't think I would've done too badly tbh.
This is studs with drums and Wolf wheels.
20250809_142613.jpg
 
This is studs with drums and Wolf wheels.
Yeah not sure I'd be happy with that either tbh. Before you fitted them were the rears sticking out beyond the nut less than the front? I thought mine would be ok as they are all about the same. The rears definitely do not seem shorter than the front.

Also I guess there could be a difference in thickness between the 10 inch drums on a 90 and the 11 inch on a 110?
 
Yeah not sure I'd be happy with that either tbh. Before you fitted them were the rears sticking out beyond the nut less than the front? I thought mine would be ok as they are all about the same. The rears definitely do not seem shorter than the front.

Also I guess there could be a difference in thickness between the 10 inch drums on a 90 and the 11 inch on a 110?
I think it's because the stud has to go through the thickness of the drum and the wheel. We have discs on the front and they look like this with standard wheel studs.
20250809_150309.jpg
 
That's quite a difference! As I mentioned above all of mine seem to be about the same length showing through the nut on standard steels... so logically that means they're all either gonna look like your fronts, in which case I'd be happy with that... or they're all gonna look like the rear :oops::oops:

A couple of threads showing I can live with, but more than that and I'd need to fit new studs.
 
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