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- A bit sarf of Dorking
Just become the proud owner of a 110 19J/LT77/230T. Actually, I've been given it. Result.
Result? Well in a way. I was given it because I broke it - or more accurately it broke while I was driving it.
Large volume noise from transfer box, nursed it homeward for a few miles, then no drive. Front propshaft drive on transfer box is sticking out by about 5mm and it's obvious that this is why no drive. Engage diff lock and drive home gently. No tight corners etc, assuming that the front drive may be re-connecting from time to time and not wanting to do more damage. Occasional jumps out of diff lock.
Take front prop shaft off so that I can still use it while deciding what to do. Encourage by threads on here to say that diff lock jumping is probably due to lack of use/need for WD40.
Today, unfortunately, it jumped out of diff lock for the very last time. Cannot get drive at all. Just won't engage, no matter what combination of events I use. Also notice that I don't need to follow any of the *figure of 8" route on the tx box gate. I can go diagonally if I want.
So. I'm looking at the legs kit for the transfer box (and gearbox too - very noisy in 4th 5th). And wondering.
Here's where you lot come in.
What had given up to allow the front shaft drive to move 5mm forwards and disconnect? (Nut's tight, can pull it out or push it back in) And what (almost certainly connected) has done the diff lock in? Am I likely to find a broken output shaft?
And has anyone rebuilt a transfer box. How hard? (to a bloke who was more than a bit handy on jap bike gearboxes with the benefit of a horizontally split design?
Ta chaps.
John
Result? Well in a way. I was given it because I broke it - or more accurately it broke while I was driving it.
Large volume noise from transfer box, nursed it homeward for a few miles, then no drive. Front propshaft drive on transfer box is sticking out by about 5mm and it's obvious that this is why no drive. Engage diff lock and drive home gently. No tight corners etc, assuming that the front drive may be re-connecting from time to time and not wanting to do more damage. Occasional jumps out of diff lock.
Take front prop shaft off so that I can still use it while deciding what to do. Encourage by threads on here to say that diff lock jumping is probably due to lack of use/need for WD40.
Today, unfortunately, it jumped out of diff lock for the very last time. Cannot get drive at all. Just won't engage, no matter what combination of events I use. Also notice that I don't need to follow any of the *figure of 8" route on the tx box gate. I can go diagonally if I want.
So. I'm looking at the legs kit for the transfer box (and gearbox too - very noisy in 4th 5th). And wondering.
Here's where you lot come in.
What had given up to allow the front shaft drive to move 5mm forwards and disconnect? (Nut's tight, can pull it out or push it back in) And what (almost certainly connected) has done the diff lock in? Am I likely to find a broken output shaft?
And has anyone rebuilt a transfer box. How hard? (to a bloke who was more than a bit handy on jap bike gearboxes with the benefit of a horizontally split design?
Ta chaps.
John