My 3 series project

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harris hawker

harris hawker

New Member
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Location
Cheshire
Ok as some of you may already know i have bought a 1972 swb 3 series petrol to restore then drive.
I am collecting it on the 20th of this month and want to get fully preped before it arrives, so i want to pick your brains on a few things :)

1. The chassis, It is pretty sound but want to do things right, so what are your thoughts on the best way to remove rust and treat it with? I do have a good large compressor so would one of these small spotblasting guns do the job on the rust? and whats the best paint to paint it with when its all cleaned up and and welding as been done?

2. The engine, not sure what to do with this as it does run but i don't know weather to strip it clean it all up and rebuild with new seals and gaskets and paint it up or what? if i was to strip it whats the best to refinish it? eg engine lacquer or paint or what??

3. The door glass sliders are goosed is paddocks the best place to buy these from and what do you need for a full slider rebuild on both doors?

4. Body work colours, at the moment it is blue and cream, but i want to go for land rover green and cream, does anyone know the colour codes for these 2 paints and how do you change this with the dvla? is it just a case of sending the log book off telling them the new colour or colours??

5. If anyone wants to make any other suggestions please feel free.

Thanks well in advance:)
 
Hi,
This is what i would do.
1. Have the chassis shot blasted then galvanized. Cost me £80 to shot blast mine. Looks really good. Ive been quoted 100 to dip it just not finished the welding yet.

2.Strip and re-biuild. Rings, mains, bigends, timing chain seals and gaskets. I think about 120-140 for the bits. Then enamel engine paint.

3. Not got to that bit with mine yet so cant say.

4. Not sure about color codes but yea just inform the DVLA and there send you a new updated log book. Prob a small charge there i would think.

Cheers
Rob
 
3. It's a fiddly job and may just reveal that the door tops are unsalvageable. The good news is that they aren't too expensive to replace.
All the fiddly parts that hold the glass in are aluminium so should be OK, you just need a strip of the furry lined runner, cut to size, drill and fit with countersunk head self tappers.
 
Thanks for the two replies up to now, i am not 100% on having the chassis galved as i want to try and keep it original, which i beleave was black?? Other one where abouts do you get the engine components from?? gaskets, bearing etc just a general motor factors?
And still could with knowing the paint codes for the cream roof and the land rover green if possible any one.
I cant wait to pick it up and get stuck into it now, one other silly question I have bought a 1972 series thinking its a 3? is this right or is it a 2A??
 
first things first...worry about bodywork & paint way after the chassis and engine.
If you can afford to galv...do it...defo shot blast it first however you finish it.A professional will get a better finish than the best home effort will ever manage.
If you dont galv...bury the inside of the chassis in waxoyl...and then the outside on top of whatever you use on the shot surface.
I primed mine, then used hammerite, lots of, and on top of that waxoyl...i wont be seeing any rust before 2030 :)
And you wont ever be fully prepared for its arrival!
 
foss said:
first things first...worry about bodywork & paint way after the chassis and engine.
If you can afford to galv...do it...defo shot blast it first however you finish it.A professional will get a better finish than the best home effort will ever manage.
If you dont galv...bury the inside of the chassis in waxoyl...and then the outside on top of whatever you use on the shot surface.
I primed mine, then used hammerite, lots of, and on top of that waxoyl...i wont be seeing any rust before 2030 :)
And you wont ever be fully prepared for its arrival!
Click to expand...


What did you prime it with red oxide? or hammerites own primer? As for spotblasting do they give it a coat of something when they have do it just to stop it oxidizing before you get any paint on it?
 
I used hammerite primer yes ... Paint it with one coat straight from the blasters...it will rust at the first sniff of
moisture if left even a couple of days . They may prime it for you for more money...I had a whole chassis done for 50 quid.
 
foss said:
I used hammerite primer yes ... Paint it with one coat straight from the blasters...it will rust at the first sniff of
moisture if left even a couple of days . They may prime it for you for more money...I had a whole chassis done for 50 quid.
Click to expand...

£50 for what? sandblasting or primer?
 
I looked round today for some local shotblasters and only found one local, so i phoned him up and asked for a quote to shotblast a 88" chassis fully stripped and he quoted me £150.00 then said he could also give a price to treat and paint it aswell as he did not rate having it galvanized. His thoughts on this were that the galv can crach allowing the steel behind to rot unnoticed, he said he would spray a 3 part paint process on it starting with a zinc based primer then an acrilic base followed by and epoxy finish, quoted for the lot including blasting £550.00 now i thought this was a bit on the steep side
 
Just had mine shot blasted. £110 inc blasting the bulk head. You will find a good bit of welding to do after. Have a look at the pics on my post '1969 sr2a rebuild'

It makes it very easy to weld/work with once it is blasted.

Mine was blasted a few weeks ago and its not rusted yet. Is in a garage tho. If he blasted it then painted it any rust holes would prob be covered up. Blast/ Repair/ Paint or Dip.

If your going to go for the blasting then for an extra £100 you can have it dipped. I bet the only reason he didnt recommend dipping it was because he couldnt do it him self and wanted to make a few extra quid.

Rob
 
Ok people, i have messed about with the series 3 that i had won on ebay(bloke dont want to sell for the price i won it for:mad:) and its a 300 mile round trip to collect it, more by luck than anything else i have already found another alot closer to me just 120 mile round trip. Its a 1965 series 2A petrol and i have agreed with the seller a very fair price for it. He has owned it for 8 years and only done 3000 miles in that time, and it was barn stored for god knows how many years before that, he took it for it mot 2 weeks ago and failed on the following,

1. Front indicator not working

2.Offside rear indicator incorrect colour

3.Offside front (under door pillar) chassis corrosion

4.Offside front (door pillar) chassis corrosion

5.Offside rear chassis suspension component mouting area corrosion

Here are a few pictures of it











 

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