Mid crossmember replacement 110 TD5

I got on to this job today, floor panel and seat brackets came out OK.

Now it’s apart l am not sure l can do it, two of the bolts clearly won’t come out and need to have the heads cut off, then the new ones installed with the nut at the top.

There’s also two brackets on the chassis that look like they might prevent you from sliding the new mid crossmember in.

Having said that, my crossmember is actually not as bad as l thought, no holes. But as l have a galvanised one on order l may as well carry on an change it.

At least l didn’t find any other corrosion, only a selection of rusty washers on top of the chassis rail, clearly left there by Duncan in “final assembly” when his shift ended.

But what about these two brackets on top of the chassis?

Have you checked out the YRM video on replacing the crossmember?

Here's a photo of my 110. Doesn't look like those brackets have any impact to what you are doing.

...unless they are the brackets that the crossmember is supposed to bolt onto, and have been chopped off?

No they are just unused brackets on top of the chassis,
It would obviously be fine if the body was off, but l have to try and fit mine with it in place.

lightning said:

No they are just unused brackets on top of the chassis,
It would obviously be fine if the body was off, but l have to try and fit mine with it in place.

Click to expand...

I think the idea is to slide the crossmember in from one side to the other.

But you can’t as the bodywork is in the way. I will look at the YRM video

Sting Ray said:

Have you checked out the YRM video on replacing the crossmember?

Click to expand...

Cant find that video on their website. There’s 21 videos but nothing on replacement of the mid crossmember. Can you possibly provide a link to it?

Thanks!

The easy way is....cut it in half....slide the bits in...weld back together....job done with next to nothing removed

Reading one thread about it, says the “rear tub will drop 5-10mm when the mid crossmember is removed” and l should “support the body under the C pillars with a piece of wood to spread the load”

Looking like it may have to go in to the LR specialist for this job.

So l got this job done today, took most of the day, not that there’s anything else to do

Had all the best intentions to cut through the old crossmember with a hacksaw, but it’s just not possible, the saw soon cuts through but you can’t get access to cut the top part.

So l borrowed an angle grinder, first time l’ve ever used one, found l had to first cut a slot in the side to be able to get the tool in to cut the top and other side.

All the bolts came out OK, l made two small holes in the edge of the floor to get the two bolts out that are normally not possible.
The holes are covered by the main floor panel, but l put grommets in them anyway.
The body dropped slightly on the O/S when l unbolted the crossmember, just a few mm but the door was slightly out of alignment.
I put a trolley jack under the rear tub and raised it a little, to re align it, once all the new bolts and brackets were back on it was perfect.

Once the old part was out, l realised it wasn’t actually that bad! Although large flakes of rust were falling off it. Could probably have left it another couple of years.

But, the new galvanised mid crossmember looks great and l didn’t find any other corrosion so that was a plus.
And, there were plenty of rusty screws etc (see the photo) to replace, fortunately l had bought a selection sometime in the past and was able to fit mostly new ones.