LT230 Input gear.

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nobber

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That time is coming, they say to remove the intermediate gears and replace the crush spacer, is this totally necessary to get the correct preload on the bearing shims?
 
That time is coming, they say to remove the intermediate gears and replace the crush spacer, is this totally necessary to get the correct preload on the bearing shims?

When I stripped my transfer box down, granted it was only to replace a leaky o ring, I didn’t bother replacing the crush tube. I figured if I tightened the nut to the same place it was tightened to before I done the work, then the bearings should have the same preload. It’s been back on the road for about a year, probably close to 10K miles, it doesn’t seem to have caused any issues.
 
When I did mine i rebuilt the whole box and measured the resistance to measure the pre-load. If doing it properly you should replace the crush washer. They are not reusable
 
Taking about transfer box's, mine has developed a whine like a tube train. I'm thinking bearings but not sure. Tried with front prop off and still there. Will take rear off tomorrow to see if there's any difference. How hard is it to replace bearings? Any special tools needed.
I think this all started after I had it doe,d. Had a rumbling as soon as I drove it out of the testing station. Drove it with prop off for a bit and rumbling went away. Maybe damage was done to centre diff on brake test and this is the consequence of it
Any ideas gratefully accepted.
 
Hi Mick, Sorry but did not make it clear but was asking you. With the output bearings as the prop is off just grab the out put flange and see if any side to side , up and down movement and turn by hand to feel for any roughness.
When it comes to possible centre diff damage. when driven a short distance with the lock in they go quite. The noise returns when driven in the normal out position.
 
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Hi Mick, Sorry but did not make it clear but was asking you. With the output bearings as the prop is off just grab the out put flange and see if any side to side , up and down movement and turn by hand to feel for any roughness.
When it comes to possible centre diff damage. when driven a short distance with the lock in they go quite. The noise returns when driven in the normal out position.
Thanks @tottot . There's no movement in the props at the flanges either up or down. I'm thinking it could be centre diff and will try that test. I hadn't heard of a why to test it or the sound of a damaged one. Presumably keep in a straight line unless in a muddy field.
 
Yes, drive straight. What I have seen happen [ on a mates truck ] is one of the cross pins has broken, the gears can not escape but go out of line and make a noise. When locked they do not turn so no noise.
 
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