LR3 air suspension fully down

I am sure this was covered before, but Im too frustrated to search.. please forgive me.
So since I got it used w. 100k miles 5 months ago, it has had the 'special programs not avail, normal height only' condition. I heard it self level before, and also heard compressor pump up.

Now it's all the way down, and throws codes:

C1131 Air supply
U0416 'invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module'
C1A20 'pressure increases too slowly while filling reservoir'
and another I cant seem to find now.. also related Im sure.

The compressor doesnt seem to be running or even trying to (no humming or heat). There's voltage on the main supply line (14.5V).

the fuses for the air suspension are all good. the main 20A has the voltage, but the 5A fuse 3 has no voltage, even w. engine running.

please help with ideas??? Thanks!
Jan

searover said:

I am sure this was covered before, but Im too frustrated to search.. please forgive me.
So since I got it used w. 100k miles 5 months ago, it has had the 'special programs not avail, normal height only' condition. I heard it self level before, and also heard compressor pump up.

Now it's all the way down, and throws codes:

C1131 Air supply
U0416 'invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module'
C1A20 'pressure increases too slowly while filling reservoir'
and another I cant seem to find now.. also related Im sure.

The compressor doesnt seem to be running or even trying to (no humming or heat). There's voltage on the main supply line (14.5V).

the fuses for the air suspension are all good. the main 20A has the voltage, but the 5A fuse 3 has no voltage, even w. engine running.

please help with ideas??? Thanks!
Jan

Click to expand...

hi

firstly welcome to the asylum

it sounds as though ur compressor has failed ,

do u know what make it is,

the diagnostic will be able to tell u , what type are u using , or did u have to go to a garage to get them read

have u replaced the relay

looking at the adjustable height suspension lever, can't see any lights illuminated next to them

u should have

access
normal
off road height

if u turn the engine off and back on again what comes back up

have u had all the codes cleared, do they come straight back

what year is urs please

have u checked the 3 x connector blocks in the front wheel arch , LHD it will be on the drivers side

sorry asking so many questions, trying to establish different things

when the compressor did work and was running, did u hear it stop and then a loud hiss after ,

there's a few of us here who have D3s so will try and help

just had the pleasure of totally rebuilding my suspension so know what sods they can be

gary

searover said:

I am sure this was covered before, but Im too frustrated to search.. please forgive me.
So since I got it used w. 100k miles 5 months ago, it has had the 'special programs not avail, normal height only' condition. I heard it self level before, and also heard compressor pump up.

Now it's all the way down, and throws codes:

C1131 Air supply
U0416 'invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module'
C1A20 'pressure increases too slowly while filling reservoir'
and another I cant seem to find now.. also related Im sure.

The compressor doesnt seem to be running or even trying to (no humming or heat). There's voltage on the main supply line (14.5V).

the fuses for the air suspension are all good. the main 20A has the voltage, but the 5A fuse 3 has no voltage, even w. engine running.

please help with ideas??? Thanks!
Jan

Click to expand...

have posted a link on ur other post on the D3 forum

Thanks, Gary.

it's a 2005.. the compressor looks oem. There is voltage (14.5) on the main supply connector to the compressor.
But I dont know for sure that means it should run, or there are conditions/signals which are carried on the lower gauge wires, or some internal sensor conditions that are preventing it from running. It doesnt look or smell or sound like it is trying to run either.. another reason Im not ready just to swap it out.
There must be a diagnostic procedure somewhere.. what else can it be

searover said:

Thanks, Gary.

it's a 2005.. the compressor looks oem. There is voltage (14.5) on the main supply connector to the compressor.
But I dont know for sure that means it should run, or there are conditions/signals which are carried on the lower gauge wires, or some internal sensor conditions that are preventing it from running. It doesnt look or smell or sound like it is trying to run either.. another reason Im not ready just to swap it out.
There must be a diagnostic procedure somewhere.. what else can it be

Click to expand...

hi

assume you've checked the main 60amp fuse under the bonnet and also the relay is working ok

so ur saying with the engine running u get nothing , in any of the 3 x settings

there is a test sheet somewhere , will see if i can find it for u

suppose the true way to test it would to disconnect the plugs and connect a 12 volt supply directly to the pump, if it doesn't work u know the compressor has had it

in the mean time have a look at this , to see if it's any help to u

it's the full workings of the suspension

http://media.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/15405/Land Rover factory D3 air suspension description.pdf

yes.. all fuses are OK, and relay is ok.. thus the voltage on the compressor main power ..
I studied that manual page last night.. invaluable.. EXCEPT.. it does state there are certain conditions that will block the compressor from running..
So that confirms my fear that 12V on compressor does not mean it should be running.. Looking for confirmation/info what else to check

searover said:

yes.. all fuses are OK, and relay is ok.. thus the voltage on the compressor main power ..
I studied that manual page last night.. invaluable.. EXCEPT.. it does state there are certain conditions that will block the compressor from running..
So that confirms my fear that 12V on compressor does not mean it should be running.. Looking for confirmation/info what else to check

Click to expand...

just checked

have u checked fuses

f3 -5 amp
F26 - 20 amp
FL 10 - 60 amp , that's the fusible link one

all under the bonnet

the compressor won't run if it gets to hot , however if the fuses are ok , the next port of call would be the compressor

so if the fuses are all ok, then it will be the case of 100% proving it by using an external 12 volt supply directly onto the compressor

that way nothing has been missed, if the compressor then won't run with the external supply u will have to either rebuild or replace

personally i tried to repair mine but in the end it was too far gone

fitted a dunlop , along with a new bracket and rubber bushes , is whisper quiet now

please let me know how u get on

ps where abouts in the states are please

yes yes and yes.... all those fuses and the relay are OK
and I have power at the compressor, on the main power connector. But Ill take it out and bench test it.
Like I said , I have a fear that there a signal on the other connector that's stopping it from running.
Since everybody says that while bench testing a good compressor, it always runs.. makes me think if I disconnect the 2nd plug, compressor may run, if its good.. Ill go test.
Im in NY area.
Thanks !

searover said:

yes yes and yes.... all those fuses and the relay are OK
and I have power at the compressor, on the main power connector. But Ill take it out and bench test it.
Like I said , I have a fear that there a signal on the other connector that's stopping it from running.
Since everybody says that while bench testing a good compressor, it always runs.. makes me think if I disconnect the 2nd plug, compressor may run, if its good.. Ill go test.
Im in NY area.
Thanks !

Click to expand...

that's a start, lol

on the height lever , have u got a red light showing

wonder if the eas special program system has been turned off, blocking the signal wire , can be turned back on with a diagnostic machine , however if there is an internal fault with the compressor it could have blocked it via the signal wire to prevent it from running

please let me know how u get on

where abouts in new york, i useto live out on long beach , long island ,

also wondering there's 3 x connectors behind the wheel arch front cover

LHD it's on the drivers side , same as our passenger side , but don't think u need to go there first

at least u can leave the compressor in situ and just connect the 12 volt external supply

will do..
I found the list of other conditions that block compressor running.. have to do with accel, decel and motor temp. So unless a sensor is broken, it should not be relevant. And the temp sensors are internal to the compressor.
anyway. have smthng to work with. BTW. .I listed the codes it throws in the first messg
I live in NJ, by Sandy Hook park.

searover said:

will do..
I found the list of other conditions that block compressor running.. have to do with accel, decel and motor temp. So unless a sensor is broken, it should not be relevant. And the temp sensors are internal to the compressor.
anyway. have smthng to work with. BTW. .I listed the codes it throws in the first messg
I live in NJ, by Sandy Hook park.

Click to expand...

no worries

the D3 is famous for throwing up all sorts of faults etc ,

found this, just in case i didn't have it

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/15405/LR3_Air_Suspension_Electrical_p10_p11.pdf

hope it may be of some small use to u

the only bit of new jersey i know is rahway

good luck and please let me know how u get on

keep thinking about this

wondering if it's one of the 3 x plugs at the front, seems there is problems with wires coming adrift

trouble is you've got to remove the inner wheel arch

just a thought

think though the quick test straight onto the compressor will be quicker

OK. indeed, the motor is dead. One of the 4 brushes burned out, burnt off the lead, and even burned the little pcb base under it.. so no chance repairing it. And the brushes were actually had 80% meat left on them. So .. I dunno.. disturbing. What's also disturbing, is that the assembly was attached with the 2 bottom bolts, not 3, so was the bottom plastic cover. So this was probably a replacement unit, and whoever replaced it , didnt feel like messing with the 3rd bolts. So I expect I will need to look for some air leaks after I install the replacement unit.
I understand that if I put back a Hitachi , I wont need to 'recalibrate', but AMK will need 'recalibration', whatever that actually means.. again, disturbing, if this will be a 3rd unit..
$329.59.. meh.. a shame, for such a stupid failure...

Thanks for your help

searover said:

OK. indeed, the motor is dead. One of the 4 brushes burned out, burnt off the lead, and even burned the little pcb base under it.. so no chance repairing it. And the brushes were actually had 80% meat left on them. So .. I dunno.. disturbing. What's also disturbing, is that the assembly was attached with the 2 bottom bolts, not 3, so was the bottom plastic cover. So this was probably a replacement unit, and whoever replaced it , didnt feel like messing with the 3rd bolts. So I expect I will need to look for some air leaks after I install the replacement unit.
I understand that if I put back a Hitachi , I wont need to 'recalibrate', but AMK will need 'recalibration', whatever that actually means.. again, disturbing, if this will be a 3rd unit..
$329.59.. meh.. a shame, for such a stupid failure...

Thanks for your help

Click to expand...

ur very welcome

sorry to see it has indeed bit the dust

it did take some time when reinstalling mine

started with removing the 3x chassis mounting clips, the new bracket that also had new mounting rubbers

it is well worth taking the time to ensure the mounting bracket is securely fitted

when i removed the old bracket i gave the chassis a quick coat of hammerite

i fitted a dunlop , with the top cover in place , i took out the insulation which gives u more room to get the spanner and sockets in

u will also need some pushfit couplings if they arnt already there for the inlet and exhaust pipes ,

shame if this is indeed the third unit

check the air intake filter in the boot, there's got to be a reason why they are failing so quick

do u know when the last one was fitted

please let us know how u get on

make sure when u fit the new compressor a new relay is also replaced ,

good luck

searover said:

OK.. the compressor is in... It runs. but.. first, it ran for at least 3 mins, and the suspension didnt come off the bump stops. When I selected offroad height, it pumped up in 10-15s to full height and shut off. Then I selected normal height, and it bled out air, until it stopped at a nice leveled point. seems right. But the th compressor turned on, and wouldnt shut off. Repeat experiment.. now at normal height it shut off, but kept cycling. So now I have it at normal height, and ECU fuse pulled. We'll see if I have a leak, and how bad. But to me it sounds like a flaky sensor.. wheel, or some unloader press sensor or smthng.. Any ideas?
TIA..

PS.. so it makes sense why it's the 3rd unit (at least).. it kept burning up motors..

Click to expand...

hi mate

what make of compressor did u fit , was a new relay also fitted

it does indeed sound like u have a leak somewhere , seeing you've gone through 3 x compressors

as the system was empty it would take a little while to fill up again

have u got any form of diagnostics , as with an iid u can then see accurately the compressor pressure

the valves suffer from getting silicone white dust in them, causing issues of them not reseating correctly

when u fitted the new compressor did u get some liquid and test all the joints for leaking

will wait for u report back regarding the overnight test

when u adjust to the 3 x different heights, if u see a small arrow symbol in the display and doesn't go out it means ur suspension will need recalbrating ,

does it go out in normal height , yet remain there in access and off road height

got to go through the system stage by stage , eliminating things as we go along

i can't recommend enough in getting an iid tool, it will pay for its self very quickly , along with the convenience of always having it to hand

can then see if there is any faults throughout the entire system, as there's some 15 x ecu s

u can turn options on and off

upgrade and flash ecu as and when they become a available

will help u all i can

hopefully u won't need a new reservoir valve or air tank , but there has to be a reason why ur going through compressors, no point just fitting it without finding out why there not lasting very long

gary

wow , slow down Gary.. it's like drinking from a fire hose..

I bought a hitachi-type compressor, so no recalib is needed I was told.
I didnt test anything for leaks.. I figure I'll chase leaks only if suspension goes down overnight, with fuse out.
I have a code reader.. damn forget the brand.. it showed suspension codes.
I didnt think about looking for real time data , maybe I have pressure.
But it did pump up all the way to offroad height, and stopped. and stayed there.
And pumped up from 0 to normal fast.. it just kept cycling a lot, or just never went off.
I dont hear hissing.

What would be so awesome.. if you could organize your thoughts for me in a procedure I should follow 1,2,3...
To debug the system.. whether it lowers or not overnight. Well, if it lowers.. I clearly have a leak, right?
Thanks a lot for your help!
Jan

searover said:

wow , slow down Gary.. it's like drinking from a fire hose..

I bought a hitachi-type compressor, so no recalib is needed I was told.
I didnt test anything for leaks.. I figure I'll chase leaks only if suspension goes down overnight, with fuse out.
I have a code reader.. damn forget the brand.. it showed suspension codes.
I didnt think about looking for real time data , maybe I have pressure.
But it did pump up all the way to offroad height, and stopped. and stayed there.
And pumped up from 0 to normal fast.. it just kept cycling a lot, or just never went off.
I dont hear hissing.

What would be so awesome.. if you could organize your thoughts for me in a procedure I should follow 1,2,3...
To debug the system.. whether it lowers or not overnight. Well, if it lowers.. I clearly have a leak, right?
Thanks a lot for your help!
Jan

Click to expand...

aplogises, that's me gassing again, lol

let's start with these , can then work our way through the system depending on the findings

fit a new relay

check the 3 x levels, does the arrow symbol go out on each suspension setting

findings after taking the fuse out , has it dropped

see if ur reader will tell u the gallery pressure

then we can go from there

better

I didnt fit a new relay.. just swapped the engine relay for it. now I have a new relay, came w. compressor. I'll fit it. dont see the point tho.

The 3 levels: so yesterday, I did cycle it thru the 3 levels, and it achieved the 3 levels OK, all lights going out. But at normal level sometimes the compressor was cycling almost at 50%, or sometimes even more.

Overnight.. w. fuse out. it did drop a bit. sorry I dont have exact measurements, stupid.. just forgot, I'll guess 1".

This morning, I put the fuse back in.. and put it into offroad height. no problem, and pretty sure the compressor went off. But then I couldnt lower it to 'normal', I get suspension fault, the indicator picture of the car is red (for the first time), and '30mph max' warning appears.
sounds like a sensor or some unloader valve.. what do you think abt my next steps?
TIA.
coffee break .