Leaking roof

The roof i have has got silicon sealant on the outside of all the ribs on the top of the roof. Whilst i know the roof can/will leak in other places, it looks like the PO found that that there were leaks in the main part of the roof, and they put sealant on it. Which looks horrible.

1) do rooves generally leak under the ribs?
2) If they do, i was thinking of
- scraping off the silicon
- drilling out the rivets/welds to remove the ribs
- putting sealant under the ribs
- using waterproof screws of some sort to reattach the ribs

I could do this on the front / angled part of the roof that is above the driver/passengers only (as i care less about a leak into the tub) or doing this on the whole roof. It will need to be repainted once i have finished, so it will look smarter when the job is done.

Any advice?

p.s. i have done a first fit of a door after refitting the tub and the bulkhead (following the best practice advice), and the shut lines are looking good, so i am hopeful that the roof will fit when i get to that point of the restoration.

Not sure if your roof is lined but double check on the condensation levels as well, especially in the winter - it's surprising how much can build up and then start dripping when you move off. I initially thought they were leaks but apparently not. (I eventually lined the hardtop all over with a neoprene type sound deadening material which solved the problem). Cheers..Ian

I recon someone just put silicon on every thing just hoping to do the job.
I have not known roofs to leak on the ribs unless damaged.
The joint between the two sections where it curves down to the gutter more likely.
Second all above about condensation, often gathers in the inner gutter and the pours out in the corner by the screen when one moves off.

Silicone is no use. Mask off each side of any joints inside and spread a 1mm deep strip of PU sealant over each joint removing the tape straight away. You can use a small paint brush or flat knife to spread the goo once applied by mastic gun.
It’s the same stuff used as weld joint sealer and to stick caravans together. No need to go expensive Sycaflex or anything. I’ve just discovered tubes of PU mastic in my local pound shop and at three quid a tube it’s good enough to use as any ten quid a tube of branded gear.

Too thin and it won’t expand enough and risks cracking.

Dopey said:

@sprie You dont say where you are, but I have a roof for an 88 swb for free, tw197tb​

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That's very good of you to offer. I am going to stick with my roof for the moment as I want to keep as much of the original vehicle as possible. I am planning to put it upside down on blocks and then pour some water in it (not too much to be heavy) and see if anything leaks out.

Some other weapons. Permatex 81730 is a 'thinner' sealant that will, to an extent, flow into gaps that you'd otherwise be smearing silicon over. Done right it's more or less invisible.

For cracks less than 1mm, Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure is unbeatable. It's thinner than water, trying over 1mm is pointless, you're looking for it to create a meniscus which dries bridging the gap.

the advice is appreciated, i have made a note and will consider if i do find leaks.

boguing said:

Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure is unbeatable.

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Do you get that from a hardware store or a Pharmacy?

Dorset_dumpling said:

Do you get that from a hardware store or a Pharmacy?

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Mrs Tolley sells it direct, but I think you can get it in boat chandleries. I'm not sure that the good captain is still around, but they are/were boaters, cleverly solved a problem, and evidently had a sense of humour when naming it.