Leaking bulkhead to windscreen seal

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AndrewAndDebbie

Member
Posts
35
Location
Anglesey
We've had our 110 hardtop six days, and I already need to fix something.

The windscreen to bulkhead seal is leaking like crazy. It isn't coming from the hinges. That would be too easy. Time to take some photos....

We could ignore a little water, but the passenger will get soaked. It is a 2010, so there are no vents to worry about.

This is my first Defender so I'm a bit new at all of this. Any suggestions for an easy fix?

If not, does the entire windscreen frame have to come out so I can fit a new gasket?
 
Can that be done without removing the roof? I suppose I should do a google search.

It has been leaking for some time. Bottom bolt is rusted.

Leak.jpg
 
Unfortunately, the bulkhead has four pins as part of it, that fit into holes in the bottom of the screen frame so the frame has to be lifted. if you unbolt the roof from the tops of the b pillars you can then just about get enough movement by jacking up the front of the roof and taking it out. 8 bolts hold the frame to the roof, 6 at the top and 1 either side.
 
And if you don't mind a little more difficulty removing the seal eventually.
This can do a permenant fix it's used on sea going boats!! It may require more than one application.
Amazon product
 
I had a bad leak on mine which looked like it might be the seal between the bulkhead and windscreen panel, the seal was soaked but the water was actually coming in via the windscreen before it worked its way along the bulkhead seal and dripped to the floor. If you seal the windscreen first you might not need to reseal the bulkhead at all. Use a clear silicone sealant and skeleton gun. Cut the nozzle so that it has about 3mm bead. Working on the outside of the screen, lift the edge of the seal from the body panel and shove the nozzle in and apply a continuous bead all the way round the windscreen seal. Make sure plenty goes in and let it squish out as the seal edge falls back into place. Clean off the excess with a dry cloth and wipe clean with white spirit. This method permanently sealed the windscreen on my puma. If you still get leaks after this, it will not be via the windscreen. Also worth checking all the penetrations through the bulkhead, make sure all grommets are in place.
 
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Wimblowdriver said:
I had a bad leak on mine which looked like it might be the seal between the bulkhead and windscreen panel, the seal was soaked but the water was actually coming in via the windscreen before it worked its way along the bulkhead seal and dripped to the floor.
Click to expand...

Hmmm. I will have a closer look. I may have missed something. That is certainly an easier fix and something I can do myself.


My biggest fear is that lifting the roof will create new leaks. Trying to decide if I'm going to do the bulkhead seal myself or pay someone to do the work. The parts are cheap but I would be doing the work in a gravel lay-by.

In any case we can't leave it like it is. The passenger gets soaked. Long term this is going to ruin the bulkhead and the floor.
 
What sort of trim etc do you have in your vehicle? One of the trickiest bits to the job will be taking roof lining, window trims etc off to reveal the small bolts around the roof.
Taking off half of the roof bolts and loosening the other half is straightforward. Your picture shows that you know how to access the bulkhead to frame bolts.

As suggested above I would investigate further first. Use a syringe or small jug to pour small amounts of water, gradually, say on to the windscreen seal first. Making sure no water goes on the bulkhead seal. Do that for 20 mins and look for water ingress. Even if that leaks in do the same to the bulkhead seal.. That way you might find it's one, or the other, or both.
 
When I suspected my bulkhead to windscreen panel seal was leaking, I put some electricians tape over the seal on the outside (was a bit awkward around those brackets between the panels). Used body colour tape and left it on for months, but water was still finding its way to the passenger floor. Knew then that the bulkhead seal was not the ingress point, sealed the windscreen as earlier post and no problems since.
 
I did some tests yesterday to try and figure out where the water is getting in. I poured a 2L bottle of water onto the windscreen frame to bulkhead seal. Nothing. I poured another 2L on and around the windscreen. Nothing.

Following that massive success, I dug out my Hozelock Portashower from our storage unit. I sprayed 5L of water on the bulkhead seal. Nothing. I sprayed another 5L onto and around the windscreen seal. Nothing. I sprayed another 5L onto the passenger door seals and the top door hinge. Nothing. In a bit of desperation, I sprayed more water along the edge of the roof. Nothing.

Debbie says I fixed the leak. I'm off to read the Water Ingress Manual again.

I did notice that someone did a bodge job on the top door hinge. I'll put up a photo when I can. Doubt the big leak is coming from there, but it needs to be fixed.



8873640329246.jpg
 
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Here is a photo of the upper door hinge. I'm going to order the correct bolts and a couple of gaskets from John Craddock, Rimmer Bros. or whoever has them in stock.


IMG_20160619_160111424_HDR.jpg
 
I had water dripping on my passenger side, turned out to be the drain hole on the gutter draining water onto the top of the door but because of the thick door seal the door was protruding slightly and water ran down the seal until dropping off. The simple solution was to seal the drain hole (there is gap in the gutter corner just a few inches away so no problem in shifting water, leak solved.
 
Those bolts look awful, what a bodge job. Besides the plastic gaskets, get some thin closed cell foam and cut it to the same shape as each gasket, put a piece either side of the gasket to seal it better.
 
So far:

The drain notch in the gutter below the windscreen on the right hand side was clogged. I cleaned it when I was doing the first round of water tests.
I fixed the passenger side door hinge. One of the captive nuts was broken. Replaced both nuts with the new improved genuine LR nut plate.
Both doors were missing the water shedders. Replaced the water shedders this weekend. £11 well spent. New ones are stupid easy to install.

Much dryer now! I'm going clean the 110 with a pressure washer today. Fingers crossed it stays dry inside.


Installing the nut plate. The last few months of production used these instead of the captive nuts.
IMG_20160702_093840251_HDR.jpg


Door closes better and water isn't getting into the A pillar.
IMG_20160702_142519805_HDR.jpg



Before:
before.jpg


After
after.jpg
 
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