L322 Won't start after new battery

Hi ,

I really hope someone may be able to point me in the right direction for this issue. I just had to replace the battery in my 2004 L322 TD6 as the old battery was dropping voltage and I was getting spurious error messages every day.

Just installed the new battery after following the various guides and advice however the car will not start. The engine turns over very fast but does not start.

I have seen posts concerning the low pressure fuel pump but not sure if this related. From what I can tell on line the immobiliser would stop the key / engine from turning over.

Would be really grateful for some guidance.

regards

Yep, I'd first check the secondary fuel pump....

+1

Thanks for the quick reply and advice.

It seems strange that the pump would have stopped working that suddenly. I will check fuses and whether there is any action from the pump.

Will update when I get more news.

When I disconnect my battery the immobiliser ECU and the Engine ECU lose their link so although the engine turns really fast, it wont actually start.

If you have an allcomms it will read this fault but cannot reprogram the link. It's only the faultmate or main dealer that can do this as far as i know.

I had a trip to the main dealer on a lorry but after that they did it twice for me by calling out to my address with a laptop with the T4 software on it which takes about 2 minutes.

That's the scare story out the way, i think from memory the last time somebody asked this with the TD6 it was exactly what Saint says.
Mine is the 4.4 petrol and the other cases I have heard off with the immobiliser issue have also been the petrol so you may be in luck.

Hi Holidaychicken,


Thanks for the post. To be honest from what I can tell the in line pump is OK. What you have said about the immobiliser makes sense. Anyway I think in either case it will be a trip to the main dealer ( which is the nearest garage anyway) for diagnostics.

Out of interest , roughly how much did they charge you for the pleasure of resetting the immobiliser link ?

best regards

My main dealer is about 20 miles away.
As i had already diagnosed the problem using my allcomms they only charged me 1/2 hr labour which was about £50. it cost me £75 to get it there on a lorry.

The two times they came out I think it cost me about £100 a go.

The best thing you could spend money on would be an Allcomms as it can read and reset many faults, it couldn't re program the link but i now have a fautmate that does it really easily but they are big money unless you can pick up a second hand one like i did.

It will cost you a small fortune to keep getting main dealers involved, whereas with an allcomms you can do many of things they will charge you for and even if you are not in a position to fix it yourself, owning an L322 without a good diagnostic kit will be harsh.

Have a read through of my post below, it was my baptism of fire, it gets onto my immobiliser at about page 10, this still may not be your problem but without diagnostics you are weeing in the wind and mostly towards it


http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/first-time-owner-suspension-fail-straight-bat-228905.html

Just think, as long as it doesn't start, it's not going to cost you with expensive failures
Count your blessings.

Thanks Datatek,

Also noticed fuel economy is now very good but am going to wear my shoes down with all the extra walking.

I think for next time I will do as Holidaychicken has advised and get the Allcomms tool. I may not be able to fix the problem but hopefully I will know what is before talking to the garage.

Maybe I should also buy a spare car as well


regards

I have funded some of my L322 'repair projects' purely by the saving on fuel by not driving it, although the petrol model is a bit more thirsty than the agricultural version

vmpb said:

Thanks Datatek,

Also noticed fuel economy is now very good but am going to wear my shoes down with all the extra walking.

I think for next time I will do as Holidaychicken has advised and get the Allcomms tool. I may not be able to fix the problem but hopefully I will know what is before talking to the garage.

Maybe I should also buy a spare car as well


regards

Click to expand...

Good idea, a Kia with a 7 year warranty should see you OK

OK , so here endeth the lesson,

Called the AA to relay me to the nearest main dealer. They insisted that they needed to send a technician first and he was only 20 minutes away. The technician who turned up was in fact from Land Rover customer service.

After much cranking of engine,finally out came the laptop. After a bit of messing around with interface modules ( apparently my car is too old!!!) he managed to get a configuration that allowed him to effectively reset all codes after which the engine blissfully roared into life.

I don't know if it is my imagination but the car now seems to drive much smoother but i guess this could be partly battery and partly that the ECU is now working with fresh data.

So my thanks to the Land Rover (AA) Customer service man and the money saved on the visit to the garage will go towards an Allcomms purchase.

One final word to others with a similar issue. If you are changing the battery or only need to temporarily remove it for access purposes, then it may be worthwhile following the advice here.

Battery Drain on a Range Rover 4.0/4.6

I wish I had.

regards

Vince

Well that's good news, I dont know how sophisticated the AA kit is.
When i had the immobiliser problem, i could clear all the faults but as soon as i cranked the engine they reappeared but it sounds like he did a similar thing to what i have to do with my faultmate, which is create a code on the immobiliser ECU and then learn it on the engine ECU, or something like that.

If he was ex landrover he may have known a few tricks but either way it's a real result.