L322 3.6 TDV8 EGR Valve Gasket

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colinb444

Member
Posts
13
Location
Bishop Auckland Co Durham
Hello Guys
Looking for a bit of advice please.
I have owned my 2007 3.6 tdv8 for a year now. Since purchase I have been getting the PO23D error with the car going into limp mode. Decided today to make myself a smoke tester (15mins). Plugged this in and saw smoke coming from a metal pipe where it enters/exits the EGR valve. This pipe is 'ribbed' and has a metal type mesh covering it. Done a bit of digging on the net and there is a gasket where the pipe joins the EGR valve.
My question, is this an easy fix, can i just remove the bolts holding the pipe to the EGR valve, move the pipe and slip a new gasket in, or is there more to it than that. Would anyone know the part no for this gasket?
Any idea how much a garage would charge for doing this?
 
Hello Guys
Looking for a bit of advice please.
I have owned my 2007 3.6 tdv8 for a year now. Since purchase I have been getting the PO23D error with the car going into limp mode. Decided today to make myself a smoke tester (15mins). Plugged this in and saw smoke coming from a metal pipe where it enters/exits the EGR valve. This pipe is 'ribbed' and has a metal type mesh covering it. Done a bit of digging on the net and there is a gasket where the pipe joins the EGR valve.
My question, is this an easy fix, can i just remove the bolts holding the pipe to the EGR valve, move the pipe and slip a new gasket in, or is there more to it than that. Would anyone know the part no for this gasket?
Any idea how much a garage would charge for doing this?
I know nothing about that engine but I doubt that fitting a new gasket will fix the fault as I don't think there is any volumetric measurement of the exhaust gas being injected, all that is monitored is the operation of the EGR valve itself. I could well be wrong, others with more specific knowledge will be along eventually.
 
Try

Split intercooler hose(s)
Split intercooler
Cracked intake manifold
Maybe dead turbo

I think that code relates to manifold absolute pressure and a few other things, don't think its to do with egr system

Mine kept going into limp mode under medium/heavy load with 'engine system fault' on dash. I had a split top intercooler hose
20230521_153928.jpg

Theres one either side of the intercooler right at top front of the engine. Piece of **** to whip off and check. Mine was RH (sat in the car)
 
Hello
Thanks for the help.
First thing I did was take the top intercooler hoses off and give them a good inspection. Seem to be ok.
I believe there are 'bottom' hoses also but have not looked at these yet.
Tried the soapy water trick on the inlet manifold and also smoke test but can't see any sign of a leak.
 
No worries mate, there is 2 lower hoses but p.i.t.a to get to apparently.

Had a quick Google and found this, copy and pasted from an aussie forum -

P023D-22

aka P023D22
Description

Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor/right-hand turbocharger boost sensor correlation - signal amplitude greater than maximum
Meaning

The turbocharger boost pressure the engine ECU (PCM) is seeing is more than the maximum it was expecting. So the turbo is overboosting.
Causes

Intake air system fault
Turbocharger mechanical fault
Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor fault
Mass air flow (MAF) sensor fault
Manifold absolute pressure and temperature (MAPT) sensor fault
Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) sensor fault
Turbocharger actuator position sensor fault

Resolution

Check the intake air system.
Check the turbocharger mechanical condition and operation.
Check for DTCs indicating a listed sensor fault.
Rectify as necessary.
Using a data logger function, monitor the turbocharger actuator position and command the actuator to 5% pulse width modulated (PWM), then 95% pulse width modulated (PWM) in 5% steps. Check the results. There should be a smooth curve between the minimum and maximum values. If not, install a new turbocharger.
Clear the DTCs and test for normal operation.

Some of its double Dutch to me but hopefully someone on here can steer you through these checks
 
Screenshot_20230531-203929_Chrome.jpg


Manufacturer part no. for the entire assembly you've got on the bench is 6H4Q-6K770-DC

The failed gasket is on one of the egr pipes (I think). If its leaking there, its downstream from all the air metering so be interesting if replacing it sorts your fault code. Sorry, I didn't notice the yellow highlight before my earlier reply. I'd be tempted to take that pipe off and check it for a crack in between the ribs as well.


EDIT
Could well cause your fault code, as it may be throwing EGR sensor readings out
 
Last edited:
I can offer a bit of experience on this. Not that I had P023D, but I have had MAP errors on mine. The issue you are facing is probably a failed o-ring. I don't recall taking any out on my car but this is what the pipe looks like inside (and don't ask me how I know (or why I can take pics of my EGR pipes like this)) the blanking kit comes with new O-rings according to (ahem) a YouTube video I just watched.
IMG_0279.jpeg



Moving on from that can of worms that I don't want to open, I think I'm surprised in equal measure that this could cause your fault as much as you can so clearly see a leak. Obviously you need to sort that with the appropriate O-ring but I would also check your inlet manifolds for cracks. Mine was split and it is really common for them to do that but it's pretty easy to fix too which is good news. I'd suspect that as you've checked your boost hoses (hope you've checked the short elbow ones too as they can hide leaks). All you need is a spray bottle of soapy water and a lovely assistant to rev the car while you soak it down.

Have a read of this thread the important bit for your fault could be post #10 onwards.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...eak-and-cracked-manifold.381697/#post-5420079

Here's where to buy the Q-Bond: Amazon product


Best of luck and let us know how you get on.
 
I take it back, I did have this error having just looked back at the detail.

IMG_5727.jpeg


Is your car smoking more on one side than the other? Mine had obviously had the issue for some time and it had been running richer than Elon on one side, took a fair time to clear up once I'd fired the issue too!

I'd put money on it being a cracked manifold as I've fixed two of them now on my 2009 and a 2008 car.
 
Thanks very much for the advice. The first thing I did was the soapy water on the drivers side inlet manifold which I believe is bank 'A'. This did not show any bubbles but I only checked it at tick over, will get the wife to rev the car and try again. I have also had the top booster pipes off and these looked fine. I know there are other pipes to check just not sure where to look. Time is a bit limited but hope to have a look this weekend.
May take a while but I will report back as I am sure other people will be having the same problem.
Thanks again
 
Don't let the error fool you into thinking it one side, the issue is a correlation between the banks but it reports as A from memory even if the fault is the other side. I had the same error on my two but it was the driver's manifold on one car and the passenger one on the other.

Pull the plastic engine cover off and you'll see the two short elbows hoses right next to where your EGR pipes go in. As others have said, there are lower turbo hoses but they are a PITA to get to. Start with the stuff at the top that's easy and get that EGR leak sorted, then you'll know if it needs further work.

One more indicator of a split manifold can be soot on the under side of the engine cover, this is what led me to investigate mine further.
IMG_5791.jpeg
 
Yes mate, 6K769A. You can see them in the bottom corners of my pic above too. Dead easy to get to, remove and inspect if needed.
 
Checked the 2 elbow pipes, look ok. Had the wife rev the car while i squirted soapy water over both manifolds, no sign of any leaks (thank god). Have ordered the gaskets for the metal EGR Outlet Pipe, don't have much hope that it will stop the error but it needs doing anyway.
 
One of my boost hoses let go on Friday and I can clarify that it causes the exact same issue. It split underneath behind the webbing sleeve so I couldn't see it initially. Got to be worth a look for 2 mins with a 7mm socket to remove the pipes.

IMG-0354.jpg
 
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