L series pump timing!

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kev1nlm

kev1nlm

Active Member
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Holmfirth
I know this has been covered many times before but I can not seem to find the info I am after so perhaps somebody can help!
I know how to set up the pump and cambelt timing etc but I can not find anything to tell me how to make sure the pump is positioned correctly in relation to the pulley. I have an L series with the usual starting woes and after changing everything I think it must be the pump timing. But I could check it and it all line up ok but if the pump isn't timed up to the pulley properly it will still be wrong!! can anybody help?? Pleeease!!
 
Insert the locking pin through FIP pulley and into hole in adapter plate. Hopefully you did that when you took it off as well?

Edit: If you are just checking/adjusting pump timing this can be done without removing engine undertray or top camshaft belt cover. The pin goes in the pump pulley at about 12 o clock which gives you an adequate guide for inserting the flywheel locking pin without being able to see the timing marks on the camshaft driven end sprocket. This would leave you only needing to remove battery, air filter housing, maf & pump belt cover. Jack one front wheel off ground & with car in gear use other one to turn engine. I always aim for the pump timing pin to be a sliding fit in the pump sprocket after turning engine over a couple of revs. This can sometimes take several attempts to achieve.
 
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Hi thanks for the reply, I know how to time the pump up if the pulley is on the pump in the right place what I need to know is how to time the pump up then I can check that the pulley has been tightened up in the right position on the pump. Why they didn't put a keyway on the pump is a bloody mystery!!
 
There is bolt with a "clamp plate" that is supposed to be removed before tightening down the shaft on the FIP. Undo the bolt, remove plate then tight down.

Give me a minute and i will take a screenshot from Rave.
 
Here you go:

i0ts.png
 
that's a great diagram and I'm a little wiser now but I'm still not sure how to make sure the pump shaft is in the right position - sorry if I'm being difficult!
 
If you havent removed the pump yet. There is very unlikely you have to get it calibrated.
 
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well I'm pretty puzzled now!! It sounded like it was trying to start from the first turn but didn't quite manage it, it did start quicker than normal so there has definitely been an improvement but it's still not right, it has had 3 new glowplugs (left No 4 in!), new battery, new fuel filter, new primer bulb and I've put a non return valve in the fuel line!! Any ideas?? :(
 
I would have checked my plugs with a clamp type ammeter to see if they are actually drawing any Ah's. Just to be sure..

The coolant sensor might be bad so the ECU thinks the engine are warmer than it is? How long are your LED lit and what are the outside temperature?

When youre trying to start the car tomorrow. Try to pump the primer bulb hard before starting. If starts without any problem after priming its a air leak into the system.

Try to clean the starter, it might be gummed up?
 
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Im going to a resistance check on the 4th glowplug tonight I cant find anywhere that tells me what amps it should be drawing but I might do an Ah check, I don't think its the temp sensor as the glowplug timings alter with how warm the car is but I'm certainly not ruling it out, hopefully the non return valve will rule out any air leak faults and the starter is fine!
 
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