Freelander 1 Keyless setup + push to start

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Bartosz417

Bartosz417

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Norway
Long story short... I managed to burn my CCU (code P1061), and apparantly some other controllers. Now my backdoor is locked closed, no windows go down, no door other than driver door can be locked, and worst of all.... NO HEATING IN THE SEATS!!!! Gave it to a shop and they told me its no chance to fix it the factory way.

So I got an idea...
Lets throw out that boring ccu, and install keyless key with push to start and potentially auto start too! What could go wrong in my high mile td4???

Wondering if anyone has done something similar and if someone has any advice. Found a kit locally for only 80$, doesn't seem to hurt anything to try it.
 
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Is the CCU paired to the engine ECU? It is on my L Series. Might be paired to the imobiliser ECU on the TD4 - which may explain why the engine is still running. You'd have to leave the immobiliser setup installed and maybe tape the chip form a key to the steering column!
 
GrumpyGel said:
Is the CCU paired to the engine ECU? It is on my L Series. Might be paired to the imobiliser ECU on the TD4 - which may explain why the engine is still running. You'd have to leave the immobiliser setup installed and maybe tape the chip form a key to the steering column!
Click to expand...
Taping a chip from the key... in what meaning? Since the original setup doesn't work (The key to unlock/lock does not work due to CCU) then how does that help? (I'm a bit idiot on a few systems and need often ELI5 explanations)
 
Bartosz417 said:
Taping a chip from the key... in what meaning? Since the original setup doesn't work (The key to unlock/lock does not work due to CCU) then how does that help? (I'm a bit idiot on a few systems and need often ELI5 explanations)
Click to expand...
Does the car start still?

IIRC, on TD4 the engine ECU (EDC) is paired to the immobiliser ECU. The immobiliser sends a handshake to the EDC that authorises it to run (ie fuel the cylinders) - without that handshake the EDC won't allow fuel through the injectors and the engine won't run. For the immobiliser to send that handshake, it must have successfully read an authorised transponder chip - there is 1 in each key and their codes are (presumably) stored in the immobiliser ECU. As you insert the key, there is a 'ring' by the lock barrel that picks up the code from the chip - or you can extract the chip from the key and tape/secure it to the steering column so that it is always within signal of the 'ring'.

When the immobiliser ECU gets the chip code it also powers a relay that enables the starter motor to be engaged - this is quite easy to override though.

You would need to keep that setup running.

Any extra kit you install would run in tandem.

The transponder chip/immobilisation is a completely separate system to the security system for alarm and locking doors (operated by the buttons on the fob) - that is what you would be replacing presumably - or doing away with alarm/locking.
 
I dunno how the dash will function with a dead CCU.

For example, do the ABS lights still do their self test when the ignition is turned on? The ABS would need to function and those lights function if the car is to pass your equivalent of the MOT (presumably). Dunno if fuel gauge, temp indicators etc operate through the CCU or direct to the Lpack (dash).
 
GrumpyGel said:
Does the car start still?

IIRC, on TD4 the engine ECU (EDC) is paired to the immobiliser ECU. The immobiliser sends a handshake to the EDC that authorises it to run (ie fuel the cylinders) - without that handshake the EDC won't allow fuel through the injectors and the engine won't run. For the immobiliser to send that handshake, it must have successfully read an authorised transponder chip - there is 1 in each key and their codes are (presumably) stored in the immobiliser ECU. As you insert the key, there is a 'ring' by the lock barrel that picks up the code from the chip - or you can extract the chip from the key and tape/secure it to the steering column so that it is always within signal of the 'ring'.

When the immobiliser ECU gets the chip code it also powers a relay that enables the starter motor to be engaged - this is quite easy to override though.

You would need to keep that setup running.

Any extra kit you install would run in tandem.

The transponder chip/immobilisation is a completely separate system to the security system for alarm and locking doors (operated by the buttons on the fob) - that is what you would be replacing presumably - or doing away with alarm/locking.
Click to expand...
Yep car starts still.
Reason of me saying CCU is gone, is because of this list that the shop confirmed too. https://workshop-manuals.com/landro...cription/central_control_unit_(ccu)/page_401/
Everything on that list is exactly what does not work currently. If I understood it correctly, then it means there are to parts of the CCU, and only the security part is gone correct?
 
GrumpyGel said:
I dunno how the dash will function with a dead CCU.

For example, do the ABS lights still do their self test when the ignition is turned on? The ABS would need to function and those lights function if the car is to pass your equivalent of the MOT (presumably). Dunno if fuel gauge, temp indicators etc operate through the CCU or direct to the Lpack (dash).
Click to expand...
Everything on the dash works, excluding glow plug warmer. The ODB port confirms that everything that was readable, is still. (Got a tablet with RealDash hooked up)
 
Bartosz417 said:
Yep car starts still.
Reason of me saying CCU is gone, is because of this list that the shop confirmed too. https://workshop-manuals.com/landro...cription/central_control_unit_(ccu)/page_401/
Everything on that list is exactly what does not work currently. If I understood it correctly, then it means there are to parts of the CCU, and only the security part is gone correct?
Click to expand...
It could be a fuse powering the CCU has gone.

If could be a loom connector to the CCU has worked loose - its under the dash above the drivers legs on a UK car - presumably passenger side on yours - bolted to back of fuse box (is on L Series , presume the same on TD4).

It could be the CCU has got its knickers in a twist - disconnecting the battery for 20 mins sometimes sorts issues out - did with mine.

If could be the CCU is fried!

If your windows aren't working, then it looks like the whole CCU, security and other functions, is dead!
Bartosz417 said:
Everything on the dash works, excluding glow plug warmer. The ODB port confirms that everything that was readable, is still. (Got a tablet with RealDash hooked up)
Click to expand...
I imagine you are using an ELM dongle getting ODBII diagnostics - this only talks to the engine ECU - it probably won't be talking to any other electronics - such as immobiliser, SRS, ABS etc.

The engine ECU must be working for the engine to fire up.
 
Bartosz417 said:
Everything on the dash works, excluding glow plug warmer. The ODB port confirms that everything that was readable, is still. (Got a tablet with RealDash hooked up)
Click to expand...
Does the glow plug light normally come on in summer? My L Series one always comes on, but the TD4 may only energise the glow plugs when it gets cold.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Does the glow plug light normally come on in summer? My L Series one always comes on, but the TD4 may only energise the glow plugs when it gets cold.
Click to expand...
Have never worked since I bought it, but that thing can be made on it's own thread so I hope not important.

The Battery has been disconnected earlier, and all the plugs around ECU has been looked at, even some I did disconnect and reconnect. Have yet to try putting a multimeter there but I doubt I can find out a lot since everything but the CCU works. Want to note, not everything stopped working at once. Everything happened to stop working thru out the day, one by one.
 
The CCU controls loads of stuff in the vehicle, so swapping it for something universal is going to be a challenge at best, and impossible at worst.
The CCU controls the locking, the wipers, the hazard lights, the heated rear window, the rear door release, the rear door window operation, the heated seats if fitted, and many other minor functions. Additionally the CCU is responsible for sending the alarm off signal to the alarm/ immobiliser module, and also passing the immobiliser code from the key to the immobiliser module, which then instructs the starter to work and the ECM to allow the engine to run.
So as the engine is starting, it suggests that at least part of the CCU is still functional, or the engine wouldn't start.
 
Nodge68 said:
The CCU controls loads of stuff in the vehicle, so swapping it for something universal is going to be a challenge at best, and impossible at worst.
The CCU controls the locking, the wipers, the hazard lights, the heated rear window, the rear door release, the rear door window operation, the heated seats if fitted, and many other minor functions. Additionally the CCU is responsible for sending the alarm off signal to the alarm/ immobiliser module, and also passing the immobiliser code from the key to the immobiliser module, which then instructs the starter to work and the ECM to allow the engine to run.
So as the engine is starting, it suggests that at least part of the CCU is still functional, or the engine wouldn't start.
Click to expand...
But my idea is not to swap it, but wire myself into the existing electerical system, leaving the working part of CCU alone.
 
Bartosz417 said:
Wait I have to do that? A few months ago the car was left a few nights on off with battery and without.. And it didnt need syncing?
Click to expand...
The remote fobs need syncing to the car, as the code changes with each opening cycle.
If you don't sync the fobs after a battery change, the car receiver simply ignores them.
 
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