P38A Key/Remote Handset Problem

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

tank93

Active Member
Posts
155
Vehicle is a 1997 V8 GEMS.

The other week I went to fuel the vehicle, once finished I locked the vehicle using the remote handset and went inside to pay. Came back outside and no response from the handset so opened the car using the key but couldn't start the engine so ended up getting a few people to help push the car aside whilst I figured out what to do next!

Spoke to my local garage and they said it was likely due to interference and that I would have to enter the EKA which they talked me through, thankfully I had the EKA code. Anyway entered the EKA and that got me mobile again! The garage recommended to prevent the problem happening again that from now on when I fuel the vehicle I should lock/unlock the car with the key not the remote, sounds simple enough to me! Problem is when I lock/unlock the car with the key and then try and start the engine I get a message on the instrument cluster telling me the engine is disabled press remote which defeats the objective as I can't work out why I would need to press the remote to start the engine if I have locked/unlocked the car using the key! I have tried this (locking/unlocking with the key) in several locations and still get the same problem/

Has anybody got any advice for me please as to what the issue could be here?

Thank you
 
I don"t know if the pumps at ,the likes o tesco ECT use wifi to connect card payments from the pumps to the main terminal ,,,but a faulty wifi might upset the car ,Some strong transmitters can block key fobs,,,,, :eek:,
 
I don't know enough about these 'ear p38's as I'm new to them myself.
I recently had key fob issues so I rang Les at 'classic rides' in North Wales who's a guru on the keys of these things and he talked me through my possible issues and was correct with a couple of suggestions and I was able to repair the problem myself.
If you do ring him have pen and paper handy because he will probably tell you more than you can remember.
 
Vehicle is a 1997 V8 GEMS.

The other week I went to fuel the vehicle, once finished I locked the vehicle using the remote handset and went inside to pay. Came back outside and no response from the handset so opened the car using the key but couldn't start the engine so ended up getting a few people to help push the car aside whilst I figured out what to do next!

Spoke to my local garage and they said it was likely due to interference and that I would have to enter the EKA which they talked me through, thankfully I had the EKA code. Anyway entered the EKA and that got me mobile again! The garage recommended to prevent the problem happening again that from now on when I fuel the vehicle I should lock/unlock the car with the key not the remote, sounds simple enough to me! Problem is when I lock/unlock the car with the key and then try and start the engine I get a message on the instrument cluster telling me the engine is disabled press remote which defeats the objective as I can't work out why I would need to press the remote to start the engine if I have locked/unlocked the car using the key! I have tried this (locking/unlocking with the key) in several locations and still get the same problem/

Has anybody got any advice for me please as to what the issue could be here?

Thank you

Wrong way round. Use the fob, not the key. You need one of Marty's RF filters.
 
I think its something to do with the passive coil not working as if I lock the car with the key and then unlock with the key after putting the key in the ign it should start but instead I get the message engine disabled press remote.
 
Last edited:
I don"t know if the pumps at ,the likes o tesco ECT use wifi to connect card payments from the pumps to the main terminal ,,,but a faulty wifi might upset the car ,Some strong transmitters can block key fobs,,,,, :eek:,

Don't know but we've had people in the past get stuck at garages from RF interference. One bloke got towed round the corner and then was able to start so that must have been some heavy interference.
 
Don't really want the immobilisation completely system switched off.

Is it an easy job to remove the ignition barrel as guess the passive coil comes as part of the ignition barrel lock? It must slide out the column somehow as Land Rover sell the ignition lock as a separate part, just need to give the vin and prove I own the car as I guess the ign barrel lock needs to be cut to the vehicles lockset barcode.
 
This happens to me when I visit a certain Co-Op and park bang outside I have found going to the drivers side as close to where the reciever is located at the back wing press the fob and always work Sometimes I have to touch fob against body work where reciever is other side but has always worked Any where else and fob works fine.
Have found Co-Op installed a new staff communication system and thats when fault started
Change garages for fuel or better still if you feel comfortable don't lock the car
 
Don't really want the immobilisation completely system switched off.

Is it an easy job to remove the ignition barrel as guess the passive coil comes as part of the ignition barrel lock? It must slide out the column somehow as Land Rover sell the ignition lock as a separate part, just need to give the vin and prove I own the car as I guess the ign barrel lock needs to be cut to the vehicles lockset barcode.

You cannot turn it off completely, only passive immobilisation which is the annoying one which immobilises it when you're not looking.

Coil only on later models.
 
+1 on the Marty filter. They have stock at P38 Spares and well worth the money if you don't want to (or can't) upgrade to a Mk3 receiver. I couldn't fit a later Mk3 receiver as my Japan import uses the USA frequency of 315 MHz not the UK's 433 MHz, but the filter does the job.
Filter is at http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=84
Thanks but I don't think the filter is available as when I try to add it to the shopping cart it says out of stock
 
You cannot turn it off completely, only passive immobilisation which is the annoying one which immobilises it when you're not looking.

Coil only on later models.
What is "passive immobilisation"? On the diesel, immobilisation happens within the EDC when the ignition is turned off, so what happens is that the EDC is rendered operative by the BECM sending the mobilisation code.
Just to add, turning off the immobiliser flag in the BECM does not stop the Alarm, if triggered, preventing the mobilisation code from being sent. So triggering the alarm will still stop the engine starting, it just removes the need for a valid FOB code or the EKA code.
 
Last edited:
Thanks but I don't think the filter is available as when I try to add it to the shopping cart it says out of stock
Perhaps send them an email - I believe they build a few at a time so will no doubt get back to you when they are back in stock - I have found them to be really helpful.
 
This happens to me when I visit a certain Co-Op and park bang outside I have found going to the drivers side as close to where the reciever is located at the back wing press the fob and always work Sometimes I have to touch fob against body work where reciever is other side but has always worked Any where else and fob works fine.
Have found Co-Op installed a new staff communication system and thats when fault started
Change garages for fuel or better still if you feel comfortable don't lock the car

Similar issue for me at nearby Budgens where fob range is about a foot. At nearby Co-Op car park & office in Reading & get 20-30 yards range on the fob. At home it's 10 foot or so, but here I know there's RF bursts every 30seconds.

It seems the older receivers are wide open to any RF interference.
 
What is "passive immobilisation"? On the diesel, immobilisation happens within the EDC when the ignition is turned off, so what happens is that the EDC is rendered operative by the BECM sending the mobilisation code.
Just to add, turning off the immobiliser flag in the BECM does not stop the Alarm, if triggered, preventing the mobilisation code from being sent. So triggering the alarm will still stop the engine starting, it just removes the need for a valid FOB code or the EKA code.
I am sure there is more to passive immobilisation than what I am going to quote here but I believe the feature will automatically immobilise the vehicle when the ignition has been turned off even if the vehicle has not been locked with the key or remote handset. As I said sure there is more to it than that but I think thats the basic operation of passive immobilisation.............................happy to be corrected of course.
 
Thanks but I don't think the filter is available as when I try to add it to the shopping cart it says out of stock
You could always put a remote jog switch in the wire that runs from the r f receiver to the BECM. Any spurious signals received cannot be passed on to the BECM .when you want to lock or unlock you have to press both remotes. @brianp38dse and I have been using this for years, and it's cheap.:D
 
Back
Top