P38A Jommetry stuff

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Grrrrrr

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
Full Member
Posts
19,323
Location
Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
I had a niggly feeling that something wasn't quite right so had the steering alignment and geometry checked. Unfortunately the guy wasn't around when I picked the car up but he'd left a note:

1) Slight wear in front radius arm bushes.
2) Play in front hub joints.

Am I right in thinking I need some sort of tool and a press to get the new radius bushes in (I am not fitting poly).

What does play in front hub joints imply? Wheel bearings? Is it a new hub job?
 
1) Yes - you need a press and the tool to fit the bushes (correctly) - anyone who has "forced" them in will have premature failure. I came to the conclusion that i would use polybush (radius and trailing arm only) as it is was the easiest option. For both arms job was around 3 hrs.

One option that i considered (because i couldn't leave mine on axle stands for a week) was to purchase used arms, take them into a local indy with the tool, and press new bushes in, refit, sell old ones.

I would advise new bolts and nuts, as these tend to seize and need a lot of force to get out - make sure you have a pry bar handy - i used a small press.

2) I am guessing by "hub joints" he means ball joints on the swivel housing - a job i am going to do in the next couple of months. I am also going to fit new hubs (which sits on the ball joints - takes the splined shaft from CV)

Hope this helps
 
Grrrrrr said:
Ah, the swivel-hub ball joints. Bugger. Don't they need some sort of alignment tool to replace?
Click to expand...

Just what I'm trying to find out now - i posted last night and no one has got back to me :(

From what i understand if you leave the collet in place on removal, the new ball joint should sit at the correct height for alignment. Otherwise can cause the HS seal to fail (replace that while you are in there). PM me if you would like to go in for parts - may work out cheaper! Would get your chap at the garage to confirm that. People call them King Pins as well...which they are not!
 
Falk said:
Just what I'm trying to find out now - i posted last night and no one has got back to me :(

From what i understand if you leave the collet in place on removal, the new ball joint should sit at the correct height for alignment. Otherwise can cause the HS seal to fail (replace that while you are in there). PM me if you would like to go in for parts - may work out cheaper! Would get your chap at the garage to confirm that. People call them King Pins as well...which they are not!
Click to expand...

I've just been out having a look at them. Don't look that bad to me. The MoT test is due in the spring so I'll wait and see what they say.

I've heard the same thing on the collet. Cannot remember where I read it. RR.net, perhaps? Sounds plausible.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I've just been out having a look at them. Don't look that bad to me. The MoT test is due in the spring so I'll wait and see what they say.

I've heard the same thing on the collet. Cannot remember where I read it. RR.net, perhaps? Sounds plausible.
Click to expand...

It has been said on here many times. Think i said it a couple of weeks ago, but it is not a guarantee of absolute correct alignment. ;)
 
plumbfisher said:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/upper-ball-joint-laughing-at-me.294247/

This is a recent thread about upper ball aches. No recent word as to how it ended up.
Looks like something I'm going to have to see to soon. :( Last MOT it was an advisory.
As far as I can understand if the alignment is not right then the oil seal will not be properly centred and so will wear and leak.
Click to expand...

Ball joints are a pretty simple job with the correct tools correctly applied. Alignment should be reasonable if you don't disturb the adjuster, but not guaranteed perfect. I made an alignment tool for about £40.00 worth of materials and from stuff i had hanging about in the garage. I used the tool off eBay well greased up the tool should last a while. Used it with a dry thread and abused it will not last as long.
 
wammers said:
Ball joints are a pretty simple job with the correct tools correctly applied. Alignment should be reasonable if you don't disturb the adjuster, but not guaranteed perfect. I made an alignment tool for about £40.00 worth of materials and from stuff i had hanging about in the garage. I used the tool off eBay well greased up the tool should last a while. Used it with a dry thread and abused it will not last as long.
Click to expand...
What was the tool off eBay though? I was thinking of using a C clamp to remove and refit the ball joints
 
Thanks. Would you be able to take a picture + little info on the alignment tool please. Again I was going to take a nominal measurement between the old ball joints and then fashion a pipe to length to sit between them. Then mark a level point on the pipe from the seal.
 
Falk said:
Thanks. Would you be able to take a picture + little info on the alignment tool please. Again I was going to take a nominal measurement between the old ball joints and then fashion a pipe to length to sit between them. Then mark a level point on the pipe from the seal.
Click to expand...

The one i made is slightly different but much the same as the Land rover tool. A bar anchored into the axle end where the oil seal goes. Then a sliding gauge that slides on to the fixed bar and fits into the hub when it is at the correct height. Quite simple really. Made on my lathe.
 
wammers said:
The one i made is slightly different but much the same as the Land rover tool. A bar anchored into the axle end where the oil seal goes. Then a sliding gauge that slides on to the fixed bar and fits into the hub when it is at the correct height. Quite simple really. Made on my lathe.
Click to expand...
Wammers can i PM you details about my EAS need some advice please
 
Picture of tool LRT-54-006 attached. Wammers, can you post picture of your version ?
 

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