Jazbo
- Thread starter Jazbo
- Start date
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The hydraulic clutch on a defender is retaively simple. The clutch master, a short section of rigid pipe and a shorter section of flexible pile to a slave.
The slave pushes a push rod against a fork which in turn pushes the clutch release bearing forwards.
The std fork can/does fail which will lead to the clutch release not being pushed forwards enough (or, eventually, at all)..
There is an uprated HD fork available, fit one of those...
If you clamp the short section of flexible pipe (mole grips work) and the clutch pedal is 'solid' then it's either the slave or the fork.
If the slave is new ... it's likely to be the fork.
If (after you remove the gearbox and bell, you find the clutch release slider is alluminium, change it for the upgraded steel version.
Fit a new clutch release bearing.
While you are in there, change the clutch (Valeo).
If the flywheel has a ridge/indentation, get it skimmed or fit a new one.
If you take the flywheel out fit a new (OEM) rear crank seal and bronze bush.
The slave pushes a push rod against a fork which in turn pushes the clutch release bearing forwards.
The std fork can/does fail which will lead to the clutch release not being pushed forwards enough (or, eventually, at all)..
There is an uprated HD fork available, fit one of those...
If you clamp the short section of flexible pipe (mole grips work) and the clutch pedal is 'solid' then it's either the slave or the fork.
If the slave is new ... it's likely to be the fork.
If (after you remove the gearbox and bell, you find the clutch release slider is alluminium, change it for the upgraded steel version.
Fit a new clutch release bearing.
While you are in there, change the clutch (Valeo).
If the flywheel has a ridge/indentation, get it skimmed or fit a new one.
If you take the flywheel out fit a new (OEM) rear crank seal and bronze bush.
