Singvogel
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,971
Just changed both the engine oil and the Jatco auto-box ATF.
I know loads has been written already on the Jatco but here are a few new observations which may be helpful to other auto-box drivers looking to do the job for the first time.
Mileage on my 2004 TD4 is now 100K with the ATF last changed by a main dealer at 60K who screwed it up. After only 5 miles I turned around and went back to complain – notchy changes and strange noises! They said nothing but changed it again, so presumably someone got their ar*e kicked.
I decided to change the fluid myself this time, a bit early as the box was showing signs of uncertainty as to which gear to take. For example on a long straight uphill 30 limit road as the road grew steeper the box was shuddering / ‘fluttering’ a little and I could feel a bit of vibration through the floor. Nothing bad really and if you gave a bit more pressure on the accelerator the change down took place immediately and all was as normal.
I read up lots on here, and elsewhere, about the Jatco and it’s unique fluid – Texaco N402 which is only available as LandRover STC 50531 and is labelled ATF402 at £11.64 plus VAT a litre. Ouch – liquid gold indeed!
Hippo’s photo of the correct bolts to be removed is particularly excellent. Thankyou Hippo.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb237/HippoPhoto/Keep/P4051811.jpg
I warmed everything up to normal temp and dropped a cheapo AC thermometer probe into the filler bung-hole and noted that the temp was 62degreesC.
I ran the car up onto the wooden ‘Vogel Ramps’ – very similar to ‘Hippo Ramps’ – do a search for 'Hippo Ramps' if you've never heard of such things. I even used a builder’s level to make sure the car was really perfectly level.
I removed the undertray – four Pozidriv screws on the front valance – four Pozidriv self-tappers holding the under-wing liners to the ‘wings’ on the tray – two 10mm bolts at the farthest end of the tray holding it to the crossmember – four 13mm bolts holding the tray at each side – and two 13mm bolts up into the front crossmember, behind the valance (easily reached with a ring-spanner, after the ‘wings’ have been released. Sixteen fixings in all!
I checked that I had identified the correct bolts/plugs to remove – (thanks again Hippo) but I was not happy with how my socket fitted the big 24mm hex drain plug. I checked carefully and discovered that it is not 24mm at all – but the old imperial size 15/16th inch. Fortunately I have a set of A/F sockets, left over from another life in a bygone age, and the 15/16th one fitted perfectly. If you use a 24mm socket or spanner it is highly likely to slip off and burr the corners of the hexagon.
Any/every time you open the level plug you will have from 50 to 100 ml run out as the level checker is simply a tube from within the box which fills with fluid. This means that you will always have to pour in at least 100ml to get the first dribble to come out the hole.
I got about 4.5 litre out and left it to drip while the engine cooled and I did the regular engine-oil change. The old ATF fluid was a couple of shades deeper red than the new stuff, with a very, very slight toasty smell.
Filling the Jatco is not an easy task - the rubber filler bung is far too small – I have an orange flexi-funnel from Halfords, but the end is way too big to enter the Jatco filler hole. Problem solved by sneaking a little kitchen funnel past my wife – she’ll never miss it – I hope!
After replacing the 15/16” drain plug, it took a good ten minutes to pour in the first three and a half litres and the first dribble come out the level hole.
I replaced the level hole plug and started the engine – and cycled through the gears, waiting 10 seconds in each position – and didn’t forget to put it ‘sport-mode’ and do it again.
I checked the temperature through the filler hole, and with a digital thermometer on the Jatco casing - 32degreesC. I removed the level plug again and with the engine still running I poured in the rest of the 4th litre and again went through the changing gears bit.
I poured in another 250ml – still nothing coming out – so more changing gears.
The temperature was now 38degreesC – perfect. I continued adding more fluid until the first little dribble came out the level hole. The total ATF replaced was 4.6 litres.
I replaced and tightened up the level plug, refitted the rubber filler-hole bung, and the job was done.
Went for a test run and immediately noted that the changes were much smoother and the box a little quieter. Also thankfully the judder / indecisiveness has gone too.
I’m very pleased as the job took me just over 2 hours and cost me only the price of the engine-oil, filter, and the ATF. Total £100 as opposed to the ‘special promotion' at the LR dealer of £230.
For the engine I used Castrol Magnatec 5W-30 fully synthetic A3B5 LL01 spec oil, and a Mahle filter.
No way am I paying anyone £65 per hour to do these jobs – and I know it’s been done correctly, with the correct fluid this time.
Singvogel.
I know loads has been written already on the Jatco but here are a few new observations which may be helpful to other auto-box drivers looking to do the job for the first time.
Mileage on my 2004 TD4 is now 100K with the ATF last changed by a main dealer at 60K who screwed it up. After only 5 miles I turned around and went back to complain – notchy changes and strange noises! They said nothing but changed it again, so presumably someone got their ar*e kicked.
I decided to change the fluid myself this time, a bit early as the box was showing signs of uncertainty as to which gear to take. For example on a long straight uphill 30 limit road as the road grew steeper the box was shuddering / ‘fluttering’ a little and I could feel a bit of vibration through the floor. Nothing bad really and if you gave a bit more pressure on the accelerator the change down took place immediately and all was as normal.
I read up lots on here, and elsewhere, about the Jatco and it’s unique fluid – Texaco N402 which is only available as LandRover STC 50531 and is labelled ATF402 at £11.64 plus VAT a litre. Ouch – liquid gold indeed!
Hippo’s photo of the correct bolts to be removed is particularly excellent. Thankyou Hippo.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb237/HippoPhoto/Keep/P4051811.jpg
I warmed everything up to normal temp and dropped a cheapo AC thermometer probe into the filler bung-hole and noted that the temp was 62degreesC.
I ran the car up onto the wooden ‘Vogel Ramps’ – very similar to ‘Hippo Ramps’ – do a search for 'Hippo Ramps' if you've never heard of such things. I even used a builder’s level to make sure the car was really perfectly level.
I removed the undertray – four Pozidriv screws on the front valance – four Pozidriv self-tappers holding the under-wing liners to the ‘wings’ on the tray – two 10mm bolts at the farthest end of the tray holding it to the crossmember – four 13mm bolts holding the tray at each side – and two 13mm bolts up into the front crossmember, behind the valance (easily reached with a ring-spanner, after the ‘wings’ have been released. Sixteen fixings in all!
I checked that I had identified the correct bolts/plugs to remove – (thanks again Hippo) but I was not happy with how my socket fitted the big 24mm hex drain plug. I checked carefully and discovered that it is not 24mm at all – but the old imperial size 15/16th inch. Fortunately I have a set of A/F sockets, left over from another life in a bygone age, and the 15/16th one fitted perfectly. If you use a 24mm socket or spanner it is highly likely to slip off and burr the corners of the hexagon.
Any/every time you open the level plug you will have from 50 to 100 ml run out as the level checker is simply a tube from within the box which fills with fluid. This means that you will always have to pour in at least 100ml to get the first dribble to come out the hole.
I got about 4.5 litre out and left it to drip while the engine cooled and I did the regular engine-oil change. The old ATF fluid was a couple of shades deeper red than the new stuff, with a very, very slight toasty smell.
Filling the Jatco is not an easy task - the rubber filler bung is far too small – I have an orange flexi-funnel from Halfords, but the end is way too big to enter the Jatco filler hole. Problem solved by sneaking a little kitchen funnel past my wife – she’ll never miss it – I hope!
After replacing the 15/16” drain plug, it took a good ten minutes to pour in the first three and a half litres and the first dribble come out the level hole.
I replaced the level hole plug and started the engine – and cycled through the gears, waiting 10 seconds in each position – and didn’t forget to put it ‘sport-mode’ and do it again.
I checked the temperature through the filler hole, and with a digital thermometer on the Jatco casing - 32degreesC. I removed the level plug again and with the engine still running I poured in the rest of the 4th litre and again went through the changing gears bit.
I poured in another 250ml – still nothing coming out – so more changing gears.
The temperature was now 38degreesC – perfect. I continued adding more fluid until the first little dribble came out the level hole. The total ATF replaced was 4.6 litres.
I replaced and tightened up the level plug, refitted the rubber filler-hole bung, and the job was done.
Went for a test run and immediately noted that the changes were much smoother and the box a little quieter. Also thankfully the judder / indecisiveness has gone too.
I’m very pleased as the job took me just over 2 hours and cost me only the price of the engine-oil, filter, and the ATF. Total £100 as opposed to the ‘special promotion' at the LR dealer of £230.
For the engine I used Castrol Magnatec 5W-30 fully synthetic A3B5 LL01 spec oil, and a Mahle filter.
No way am I paying anyone £65 per hour to do these jobs – and I know it’s been done correctly, with the correct fluid this time.
Singvogel.
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