It won't start

Guys! Changed the cam belt today. Everything went well until it came to starting it. The belt went in ok as per the manual. As I undid the fuel pump it seemed to click itself into place. I followed the book as far a s timing it all up. The pin went in the hole at TDC No1 the marks lined up on the cam sprocket with the marks on the case. I had the pump gear loose as it went back together to take up the slack. I have taken it apart again and checked it all. I can not understand what is wrong. I get a little white smoke as it turns over. The pump has not been touched other than the the three bolts to slacken the pulley. We did try turning the pump pull with the belt off. It clicked through 360 and went back to where we started and where the timing pin fits in. I have had the rocker cover off to ensure working from No1 and the marks lined up on the flywheel and the front of the crank. If you have any suggestion help it would be gratefully received as I have got no idea what to do next. I have checked the fuel, even primed the pump again.

Thanks in advance.

Mike

I would suggest you get a proper crank timing pin (the one that goes in the wading plug hole in the bell housing) to get it set accurately.

Kwakerman said:

I would suggest you get a proper crank timing pin (the one that goes in the wading plug hole in the bell housing) to get it set accurately.

Click to expand...

Used one of those as part of the initial setting.

Looks like you are getting fuel if you have a mist out of the exhaust, if as you say you haven't touched anything else then it must be down to timing.
1. Take the rocker cover off
2. Set the crank to TDC using the bell housing timing pin (look in the hole first to make sure you can see the narrow cut out in the flywheel.
3. Check No1 cylinder rockers are up (valves closed) and have a small amount of free play if you wiggle them up and down. (if a rocker is pushed down then the crank / cam timing is out by 180 degrees)
4. Use a mirror or some other method so you can see the cam pulley timing mark and the mark on the casting 'square on' (easy to get it slightly out if looking down from above)
5. With all the above done try and insert the FIP timing pin, it needs to be a 9.5mm diameter pin and ensure it slides into the pulley and the casting in the FIP. (if you use a pin narrower than 9.5mm then you can get the pin in but the timing will still be out, at a rough guess the pin needs to go through the pulley and then about another 20mm or so into the FIP).

Hope that helps a bit but it does sound like a timing issue.

Just spotted this, Land Rover Diesel Fuel Injection Pump setting Bosch VE - YouTube shows the difference the wrong diameter pin could cause and may be of some assistance?

Just a very silly thing (but I have seen this happen quite a lot)

Is the wire on the injector pump solenoid on/tight?
Sometimes when bleeding or tinkering about the wire can become dislodged
Mike