It’s Not The Rear Drive Flanges and Half Shafts, Help!

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jonah

jonah

Active Member
Posts
171
Location
Hurdersfield!
Hi All,

Have merrily driven around since buying Landy +4yrs ago and lived with the clunk when setting off, one of its querks! A couple of days ago, tried to set off and didn’t move, just engine reved. Put it back in gear and managed to get going, took it round corner off main road and had a quick look under, prop shafts, etc. all ok. Decided to try and get home a mile or so away, clunk and a squealing sound for a few seconds, but took it easy and made it home. When I reversed onto drive, clunk and then it jerked backwards?

Hoped, it may be rear drive flanges finally gone and as I’d bought flanges and new half shafts decided to change. The flangers on Landy had a bit of play in them, nothing much and half shafts didn’t really have any obvious wear and tear on them, but changed them anyway. Did drive up and down road, all seemed ok, still had 4yr old clunk.

Will look at checking front flanges for wear and change if needed. If it’s not these causing issue, what could it be and which should I check first.

thanks for your help.

Jonah
 
You do not say what model/year, miles. The clonk is likely in the splines of the transfer box input gear. Less likely rear A frame ball joint and a nearly gone UJ. All need proper investigation not just a quick look.
 
tottot said:
You do not say what model/year, miles. The clonk is likely in the splines of the transfer box input gear. Less likely rear A frame ball joint and a nearly gone UJ. All need proper investigation not just a quick look.
Click to expand...
It's a 110 2008 Puma 2.4tdci (160k miles, regularly home serviced every 6K). The quick look was to get me home, now trying to be systematic with my investigation. After reading lots of forum posts, Drive flanges and half shafts rear seemed the 1st port of call and hopefull the easiest to solve, but as always with my Landy, its never a quick fix!!
Brand new propshap 10k ago, slight play into rear diff.
As mentioned, intend to check/change front drive flanges to see if worn, but the slight squeal/squeaking sound for a few seconds was a new addition to the clunk/slack takeup when setting off, which has been present for +4yrs?
Will have a check of Ball Joint and UJs.
Biggest concern was loss of forward movement and new clunk when reversing onto drive!
How easy is it to check/fix transfer box input gear?
 
Failure of the transfer input shaft / gear is a known problem [ dry splines that wear out ] with the Puma model the same as it was with 200tdi model [ it would appear JLR never learn]
The good news is that unlike the LT77 / R380 box's which needed the whole main shaft had to be replaced the Mt 82 output section can be replaced on its own. Check out Ashcroft transmissions for more info. Other cheaper options are available on line.
To check I guess but do not know for sure it is remove round plate on the transfer box rear. Someone else may be able to confirm this.
 
Thanks for responses.
Input gear, seemed to ring a bell and had a look back through invoices/work done on Landy and paid the Land Rover Centre to have Shaft & Flange changed at 145k(2017). I’ve driven 158k to date, all on road, should this have gone so soon and after only 13k miles?
Not had chance to check front drive flanges yet, but wondered if issue could be with rear differential? If I take prop shaft off and remove diff cover to check, do I need a gasket(nothing showing on LRWorkshop diagrams) or is it just RTV sealant I need? If sealant, recommendations please!
Any other thoughts on possible answer to my problem?
Thanks as always.
Jonah
 
Take the rear prop off and go for a drive. If it still clunks you can more or less discount the rear end. Have you checked the a frame balljoint? I was chasing a clunk on mine and replaced parts that did need replacing but ended up tracing it to the main culprit - the a frame balljoint. Replaced that and the clunk is instantly gone and its become such a joy to drive. Often overlooked and many people tend to blame other things first
 
the_wolf said:
Take the rear prop off and go for a drive. If it still clunks you can more or less discount the rear end. Have you checked the a frame balljoint? I was chasing a clunk on mine and replaced parts that did need replacing but ended up tracing it to the main culprit - the a frame balljoint. Replaced that and the clunk is instantly gone and its become such a joy to drive. Often overlooked and many people tend to blame other things first
Click to expand...
Thanks, will have a look at this.
 
Update -
Had to be recovered after what sounded like a bag of spanners rattling gearbox/transfer box. I think transfer box gone, but took it to a specialist and they advised probably output shaft. After +4 weeks they've finally got it on ramps and phoned to say pieces of metal coming out of transfer box while draining! Not a happy bunny!
 
jonah said:
Update -
Had to be recovered after what sounded like a bag of spanners rattling gearbox/transfer box. I think transfer box gone, but took it to a specialist and they advised probably output shaft. After +4 weeks they've finally got it on ramps and phoned to say pieces of metal coming out of transfer box while draining! Not a happy bunny!
Click to expand...
Where you still driving it without identifying the issue you described in your earlier posts ??
 
meego said:
Where you still driving it without identifying the issue you described in your earlier posts ??
Click to expand...
Just a short test drive to see if changing all half shafts and flanges and gearbox/transfer box oils helped resolve, as I would do normally when trying to fix a Landy issue! Hindsight being an amazing thing, I would obviously not have test driven to check!
 
jonah said:
Just a short test drive to see if changing all half shafts and flanges and gearbox/transfer box oils helped resolve, as I would do normally when trying to fix a Landy issue! Hindsight being an amazing thing, I would obviously not have test driven to check!
Click to expand...
You have to test it somehow eh. I fitted a new lower ball joint on my daughters Citroen C1 once.It pressed in to a steel wishbone set up. I got about 20 yards up the road on a test drive and it came out. The car was all over the place. I renewed the full wishbone after that as my blood ran cold at the thought of it happening to her on the motorway or something. :(
 
meego said:
You have to test it somehow eh. I fitted a new lower ball joint on my daughters Citroen C1 once.It pressed in to a steel wishbone set up. I got about 20 yards up the road on a test drive and it came out. The car was all over the place. I renewed the full wishbone after that as my blood ran cold at the thought of it happening to her on the motorway or something. :(
Click to expand...
It's frightening when something like that happens, similar with a power steering arm I fitted, lookily it worked loose and not off, another lucky escape!
 
Biggest issue is I'd normally tackle anything on the Landy, but as it was gearbox/transfer box related thought I'd leave it to specialists. Just annoyed, I get a phone call to tell me I was right, but that if I want the Landy back, to take elsewhere, it's going to cost me £600 for a days labour as it's in pieces! Then realised, it would have just been transferbox minus oil showing shards/metal, not everything on workshop floor! AHHHHH! Another reason to avoid "professional garages!"
 
tottot said:
It was I who told you what the problem was likely to be back in August. £600 and the rest.:eek::( A lesson learned.
Click to expand...
You were right on the money, will definitely explore ALL suggestions in future. Heading towards £2k with transfer box input spline...and my STRESS LEVELS. Just want my Landy back, been lost without it, like losing a part of me!
 
jonah said:
You were right on the money, will definitely explore ALL suggestions in future. Heading towards £2k with transfer box input spline...and my STRESS LEVELS. Just want my Landy back, been lost without it, like losing a part of me!
Click to expand...

2k to have a LT230 transfer box replaced? Madness. Tell them to get a replacement box from Ashcroft’s - £600 plus 4hrs labour to take old one out and put new one in.
 
payydg said:
2k to have a LT230 transfer box replaced? Madness. Tell them to get a replacement box from Ashcroft’s - £600 plus 4hrs labour to take old one out and put new one in.
Click to expand...

Im not sure where your getting your prices from, but when you add the new shafts, shipping, collection, and VAT, it’s well over £1200 for my Tbox to be replaced by them. That’s without fitting. I agree that £2K for the whole job is a bit steep, but only the £700 for removal and refitting.
 
mick 1986 said:
Im not sure where your getting your prices from, but when you add the new shafts, shipping, collection, and VAT, it’s well over £1200 for my Tbox to be replaced by them. That’s without fitting. I agree that £2K for the whole job is a bit steep, but only the £700 for removal and refitting.
Click to expand...

I guess I’m working it from a new recon box is about £600 from Ashcroft’s. plus a few hours labour to swap them over. It took me just 4 hours to get mine swapped over and this was on the side of the road, no ramp, on my own and using an engine crane through the cab. I can’t see how there’s more than 8hrs labour involved so that puts it at around a grand.
 
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