Is Wax-based underseal a waste of time?

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lightning

lightning

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My 110 was professionally treated with a wax based underseal about five years ago.
Since then it has been inspected from time to time and the coating re applied where necessary.
I’ve also regularly sprayed any vulnerable parts such as the rear and front outriggers with rust proofing spray.
But today, on inspection, it seems to have done no good at all. I scraped off the wax based underseal from the rear outriggers and was met with flakes of rusty metal falling off over the whole outrigger.
Fortunately there’s no holes. But what a waste of time the rust proofing appears to have been.

Although maybe that’s why there’s no holes!! So not a complete waste of time.

This cross piece appears to be just bolted on to the chassis and floor pans. Is it possible to get it out and fit a new one without lifting the body?
 
I am getting disillusioned with waxoyl, slapped it all over stuff when I work on the defender, but it washers off like custard. I put new rear shocks on in October, took off the brackets and cleaned off all the rust then ladle it on back and front, plus the chassis where they mount,,today they look just as they did when I cleaned them up, no trace of the waxoyl.
It has happened to several parts I.e. the A frame ball joint
Need to find something that really works.
 
What make of wax did you use ? There are good one's, better ones and rubbish out there.
I prefer engine oil thinned with a bit of diesel sprayed on once a year after the annual power wash. Many say waxoil has gone down in quality.
 
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I’ve used various products all wax based and supposed to stay flexible.
The issue is, the rust seems to just carry on behind the coating.
The coating still looks fine, it hasn’t washed off or disappeared, but when you scrape it off, there’s flaking rust behind.
Those outriggers weren’t that rusty when l bought the 110 in 2004. They were mostly still paint.
 
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That crossmember won't come out without lifting the body.
A replacement used to be available in two pieces which you welded together in situ.
 
Well, it’s still solid, no holes, so in that case l guess it’s staying where it is then. I’ll just spray it with grease.
I recently fitted mud shields to stop mud and crap from getting thrown up into that area.
 
I had mine Dinitrolled rather than waxolyed 3 years ago. Gets checked every year when the old MOT comes up and so far haven’t had to have any touch up.
 
Our 90 was Dinitrol’d five years ago, have to say it still looks good, although l’ve not tried scraping any of the coating off !!
 
YRM do a galvanised replacement which can be fitted without lifting the body, I did it last year in about four hours.
 
I hate the stuff.

The metal still oxidises under it, i've never scraped off wax and found good metal, even if it was treated with rust converter beforehand. :confused:

I prefer paint, even if it rusts again, at least you'll see it!
 
Chassis wax is fine, but needs checking/touching up annually, anyone that says it lasts is either deluded or selling the stuff (no names mentioned!)
The best tip is to add a little clean engine oil in the mix, this keeps it soft, and you can still move it with your fingers a year later, ithe oil also allows the wax to creep better, the problem is once rust is in there it is in there no matter what, and all the wax is doing is buying you time.

Beware it makes doing anything big on the car a seriously dirty job, just had my engine out, and the overalls would stand up on their own!
 
kermit_rr said:
What was the chassis like before the first treatment? Brand new/bare metal/painted etc
Click to expand...

Paint with some surface rust. The chassis was generally very clean with no real rust at all.
Most of it is still the same, it just seems to be this one crossmember that’s scabby, although it does take a hammering.
 
Do as myself and others have done and make up flaps that cover those sections exposed to wheel dirt and then it matters little what preservative you use as they don't get plastered in crud.
 
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