Following the breakdown of my '95 300tdi Defender which gave the appearance of running out of diesel even though it hadn't , I've done the following to try and get it going again . Replaced the leaky head seal , as per the YouTube video by Dieselgeek . Primed the fuel filter using the lever on the lift pump . Fuel comes out of the loosened bleed screw on injector pump when engine cranks . Rockers can be seen to move when engine cranks . Fuel spurts out of the pump if the leak back pipe is pulled off and engine cranked . No fuel at injectors and no fuel at that banjo fitting that attaches to the top part of the pump . Is there anything else I can do or is it time for a new pump ?
Is My Injection Pump Knackered ?
- Thread starter dogdog1
- Start date
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RubyRR
Member
- Posts
- 47
- Location
- Southwest UK
You can check the fuel stop solenoid at the back of the pump. There needs to be 12v going to it to allow fuel through. If there is then with ignition off run a wire from battery + to the connector on the solenoid while holding it and feel it click open.
See here:
Image courtesy of RobTD590 (I hope that's allowed!)
See here:
Image courtesy of RobTD590 (I hope that's allowed!)
Flossie
Well-Known Member
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- 11,001
- Location
- Shropshire
From my limited knowledge it don't sound good and looks like you've tried all the obvious stuff.
It wont fix it but you good remove the lock bolt and keeper plate and with a mirror and torch you will see the shaft down the hole rotating. If it doesn't the pully end might have slipped ( not sure if the 300 has a woodruff key?) Can you see the FIP pully turning independently of the shaft via the inspection cover?
It wont fix it but you good remove the lock bolt and keeper plate and with a mirror and torch you will see the shaft down the hole rotating. If it doesn't the pully end might have slipped ( not sure if the 300 has a woodruff key?) Can you see the FIP pully turning independently of the shaft via the inspection cover?
RubyRR
Member
- Posts
- 47
- Location
- Southwest UK
When you tested for fuel to the injectors did you give it enough time to bleed the lines incase air has entered the system?
- Posts
- 3,275
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- Rushden, Northants, UK
Distributor pumps are notorious for being difficult to bleed, as there is only one pumping element inside and if that gets air inside, nothing happens in the way of injection.
Bleed the pump body first, then undo ALL four unions at the injectors, not the leak-offs, the main pipe unions from the pump.
Crank over with the throttle wide open, you should see a bit of foam to start with at the unions, leading to spurts of hard fuel as the pipes are purged.
Once you have one good one spurting fuel, tighten that union and wait for the next one to clear.
Once it starts to fire you can tighten the remaining couple.
Peter
Bleed the pump body first, then undo ALL four unions at the injectors, not the leak-offs, the main pipe unions from the pump.
Crank over with the throttle wide open, you should see a bit of foam to start with at the unions, leading to spurts of hard fuel as the pipes are purged.
Once you have one good one spurting fuel, tighten that union and wait for the next one to clear.
Once it starts to fire you can tighten the remaining couple.
Peter
