Interesting electrical fault with headlights and low range gearbox

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RomeoV

Member
Posts
54
Location
London
Hello All,

Recently i have purchased a series 3 ex mod landrover FFR, which has been converted to 12V from 24V. Its great fun to drive and i really enjoy it even if i am 17.... BUT ... 1) wiring problem 2) gearbox problem

1) I recently had to put a new indicator stalk on it as the previous owner had bodjed the wiring to a sepeare switch to control the dip/beam headlights. Now this was done because the flash on the stalk didn't work the switch was knackered. So when i wired up the new stalk all worked well, then i disconnected the switch and from the 6 way switch when i selected headlights full beam would automatically come on (not possible to get dipped at all) i have no idea why, could be; a relay stuck, wiring bypass? I have attempted to fault find but have had little luck. Hope someone can help.

2) 4 wd engages in high range and disengages simply by moving the red lever back an inch (or untill it won't travel). It won't disengage from high ratio into neutral or low range. Covered the lever in wd-40 to see if it had seized but still had no luck. Any ideas?

Hope you can help

Romeo
 
Be aware I got a Lucas stalk and the colours were slightly different to the loom.

If wiring is standard then there shouldnt be a relay but Im not sure if there is a seperate fuse for high and low beam or if its a fuse for all lights. Worth checking the fuse box (its in the steering colun under the wheel) to check all fuses are ok and contacts are clean
 
If the previous owner has modified the wiring they could have done anything! The dipped and main are not usually through relays on a series but straight on the switches. I'd check the wiring from the headlights switch to the loom as its probably been tinkered with. Download the manuals and parts catalogues to get the wiring diagrams. It may be different on the FFR but you should be able to work the lights out.

As to the red lever, sounds to me like its stuck, which is a pretty common problem. They tend to get left in high for ever and then stick there. A search on here for "stuck in low range" on the search finds plenty:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/cant-engage-low-range-128124.html


D

PS: Well done buying a proper motor
 
If the previous owner has modified the wiring they could have done anything! The dipped and main are not usually through relays on a series but straight on the switches. I'd check the wiring from the headlights switch to the loom as its probably been tinkered with. Download the manuals and parts catalogues to get the wiring diagrams. It may be different on the FFR but you should be able to work the lights out.

As to the red lever, sounds to me like its stuck, which is a pretty common problem. They tend to get left in high for ever and then stick there. A search on here for "stuck in low range" on the search finds plenty:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/cant-engage-low-range-128124.html


D

PS: Well done buying a proper motor

Wicked mate thanks, i will have to trace the wiring back i know all the fuses are ok as i thought i fried one the other day. I have the wiring diagram but as you can imagine after 30 years the loom is a mess and a half. I will have a look on the diagram and see what i can make of it though. Also need to sort out the fuel gauge (so it actually reads i have fuel).

Im in the process of dousing the red lever in wd-40 and praying it will shift but it seems unlikely i might have to dismantle the transfer box depending. although i will try other methods before it comes to that.

I will update you saturday or sunday when i get some time to work on it. ;)


As to "buying a proper motor" its definitly a crowd pleaser and i love it
 
If the previous owner added a bypass switch they may have also hacked into the wiring and fitted a relay, can you here a click that isnt from the switch when you turn on the lights?
Maybe too quiet to hear but worth checking as this hack may still be present.
 
If the previous owner added a bypass switch they may have also hacked into the wiring and fitted a relay, can you here a click that isnt from the switch when you turn on the lights?
Maybe too quiet to hear but worth checking as this hack may still be present.

Yep i tried this, no relays click for the headlights unfortunately i think it may be stuck im not to sure because i thought it was directly inline. I will have a check though. i think i would be able to hear them in mine i have the big bulky ones that the mod fitted and you know when they work as they are as loud as the indicators when they work :p .... as i said need to try trace back from the headlights to the 6 way switch and other parts on
 
If the previous owner added a bypass switch they may have also hacked into the wiring and fitted a relay, can you here a click that isnt from the switch when you turn on the lights?
Maybe too quiet to hear but worth checking as this hack may still be present.

Yep i tried this, no relays click for the headlights unfortunately i think it may be stuck im not to sure because i thought it was directly inline. I will have a check though. i think i would be able to hear them in mine i have the big bulky ones that the mod fitted and you know when they work as they are as loud as the indicators when they work :p .... as i said need to try trace back from the headlights to the 6 way switch and other parts on sunday :)
 
Hello All,



2) 4 wd engages in high range and disengages simply by moving the red lever back an inch (or untill it won't travel). It won't disengage from high ratio into neutral or low range. Covered the lever in wd-40 to see if it had seized but still had no luck. Any ideas?

Hope you can help

Romeo

You say it will and won't disengage from high range/ratio :confused:

Sort out your highs from lows and and we might be able to help......or at least be a little clearer cause I'm hard of thinking :eek:
 
You say it will and won't disengage from high range/ratio :confused:

Sort out your highs from lows and and we might be able to help......or at least be a little clearer cause I'm hard of thinking :eek:

Lol i mean exactly what i said ... It's stuck in high ratio ..... the transferbox won't let me go into neutral or low ratio ... the red lever is stuck forward basically and won't budge

Hope that helped
 
Lol i mean exactly what i said ... It's stuck in high ratio ..... the transferbox won't let me go into neutral or low ratio ... the red lever is stuck forward basically and won't budge

Hope that helped

Ah....now I'm with you. :)

Plenty of lube where the selector shaft goes into the box housing (proper penetrating oil is better than wd40) and a kettle of boiling water poured onto the housing often works
 
Ah....now I'm with you. :)

Plenty of lube where the selector shaft goes into the box housing (proper penetrating oil is better than wd40) and a kettle of boiling water poured onto the housing often works

Ah ok .... need to take the cowling off ... i will pick up some proper oil then, just i have wd laying about. I will try it sunday/saturday and let you know how i get on :)
 
Wiring job sorted .... same problem as all the other electrical person .. No word of a lie the person who wired it up before hand must of been colour blind. Got both fuel tanks with the gauge to potentially work other than i need two new sender units really :(

Still no luck on transfer lever must try the boiling water trick as suggested
 
Tried the boiling water trick the lever will not budge only an inch movement feels as if it is blocked
 
Tried the boiling water trick the lever will not budge only an inch movement feels as if it is blocked

You need a new kettle if you've been waiting all this time :eek:

Other than checking the external linkage it may be worth dropping the oil out to see if there's anything untoward in there
 
Lol no only just had a chance to work on it but i seemed to have solved the problem to an extent. The yellow knob depressed then pulling red lever will allow me to get low range but unless i depress the yellow knob i can't move the lever. It then stays depressed when in low range. When i select high range the 4WD disengages
 
Hello, Thanks for the diagram, yes all the shafts move freely as i can engage 4wd and low range ... just not in the order it should work

At the moment i have to hold down the yellow knob and pull red lever to get low range which engages happily. the yellow knob stays depressed and only releases when i put it back in high range. I took the dent spring and ball out under brass cap and put it in low range and replaced it. This was all free and moving.

I think the problem is something todo with the 4wd pin not lifting enough to allow movement on the red lever but i have no idea.

Hope you can make sense of that,
Romeo
 
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