Injector Pump leaking Diesel

Hello all, I’ve been using my 2.25l diesel landy for a good half a year now and recently have noticed a small leak of diesel dripping from the top of the injector pump, possibly from where the throttle linkage enters.

(It seems this has been going on the whole time since the previous owner has zip tied a makeshift drip pan to the pump which has now failed and is why I can see the leak, my fault for not even noticing this when buying)

My question is, does this seem like an O-ring/gasket failure and is this possible to fix by myself with the pump in situ? Secondly, if yes, does anyone have a good guide to doing it or good diagrams?

Many thanks in advance, will add pictures later today

You can buy throttle shaft repair kits.
Seach Lucas CAV injection pump seals/repair kits etc.
Vids on youtube.

lynall said:

You can buy throttle shaft repair kits.
Seach Lucas CAV injection pump seals/repair kits etc.
Vids on youtube.

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I see, so the pump isn’t Land Rover specific then?
Thanks

Not Land rover specific, the CAV DPA pump in fact a very common pump on tractors, diggers and many other vehicles of the same era.
"www.injectionpumps.co.uk" for parts and info. Good info on repair/refurb on you tube and decide if you are up to the job.
Although some claim to have done in situ I would not like to try. Injection pumps need to be worked on in a clean environment.
As rotary pumps go one of the simplest.

Forgotthelandinggear said:

I see, so the pump isn’t Land Rover specific then?
Thanks

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Common as muck, I have just changed a jcb one today, that to was leaking diesel.

Iirc the rough rule was if the throttle shaft is lekaing a new seal will work for a short period of time, what it really needs is a throttle shaft and seal, and if you are not sure a full refurb may be the way to go.

Depending where you are in the world Dieselbob seems to be the go to guy, if in Kent Rochester city diesels aint bad, mind you he can talk!

Awesome thanks all! The reason I didn’t want to remove the injector pump was because the timing was so good (virtually no smoke bar a bit of white smoke when it cold starts).

Watching some videos I’m sure it could be done in situ on an open sided tractor engine but definitely not on the landy. I’ll give it a crack myself, no harm in trying, but will have to remove it.

In theory if I use a little paint to align the pump with its original position the timing should be the same right?

I would mark pump and block with a sharp chisel, more accurate than paint and wont be rubbed off.
You also have to make sure there is no chance of engine being turned, take note of position of crank pully and pointer on the casing. paint ok here.

tottot said:

I would mark pump and block with a sharp chisel, more accurate than paint and wont be rubbed off.
You also have to make sure there is no chance of engine being turned, take note of position of crank pully and pointer on the casing. paint ok here.

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Thank you! One last thing, I'm going to need to purchase a spanner set for this (everything else I’ve managed to do with my socket set) I’m assuming I need imperial sizes?

Yes Imperial needed, be handy all over your series.

1/2” but a 13mm would work, a 9/16 useful too and 5/8

I wouldn’t hesitate to have it completely refurbished. After years of faultless operation mine had a brainfart and on internal inspection was completely goosed. In fact Diesel Bob couldn’t believe it was off a runner.

Sorry to revive this thread folks, I’ve been doing a little more research on this topic and looking over many other threads it seems that most engines have the pump mounted vertically. On my engine however, the pump is mounted horizontally (I.e throttle shaft pointing up). I’ve also noticed that my engine lacks an oil filler tube/hole in the rocker cover, I’ve just been filling it through the oil breather.

Would anyone be able to identify the engine based on this or would I need more pictures (away for a couple months now)

Sounds like a 2.5 n/a, but it might not be a LR 2.5.

Pic would confirm what it is.

lynall said:

Sounds like a 2.5 n/a, but it might not be a LR 2.5.

Pic would confirm what it is.

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this is not news I was hoping to hear! seems the old girl is more of a bitsa than thought. I'm in Spain for another 2 months so it'll be a while before i can confirm properly, but for now this is all the footage/images of the engine bay I have

I cannot see much from that clip.
But Iirc the LR version had a cambelt.

I am sure there are other on here with the 2.5 who could advise.

It could of course be a Santana version of the engine

Following pics are the LR version, ignore the date of the document as they had a habit of carrying over the previous models engien range to the newer models.

Deffo a 2.5na inlet manifold.

Looks like I'm going to have to look for an engine number when I'm back, thank you all for the help!

I seem to recall a thread on here about converting the 2.5na to a timing chain like the 2.25 but perhaps i've made that up as I can't find it

You may be thinking of "Zeus" who did a set of gears to replace the belt.

Forgotthelandinggear said:

Looks like I'm going to have to look for an engine number when I'm back, thank you all for the help!

I seem to recall a thread on here about converting the 2.5na to a timing chain like the 2.25 but perhaps i've made that up as I can't find it

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I've just finished converting a 12J engine to timing chain operation with a vertical injection pump, so it could possibly be one of my threads.
Just fitted it over the weekend, it seems to run pretty strong considering the questionable condition of the injectors and pump (mine is dripping from the control shaft too)