L322 IID Tool - Faults

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S

Sabbsy

Member
Posts
50
Location
Chorley, Lancashire
Got a number of faults to clear following running IID tool diagnostics. They include:

0x58 Precharge Pump
0xA0 Driver door mirror heater: open circuit
0x32 CAN bus fault
0xBD EBV function fault received from ABS ECU
0x57 Air Suspension active/inactive

Any guidance, is there somewhere you can types these codes into and it provides the solutions?

Any help always appreciated.
 
Your ABS Precharge Pump is kaput....this will introduce the CAN fault, and Air Suspension Fault (as it shares the same CAN - and will go into soft fault in sympathy) EBV - I think this fault will always pop up with the L322 ass it is a function it doesn't have (reserved for the BMW models the system is derived from) and your door mirror heater circuit is defunct!

Can I assume you have the ABS/DSC/HDC warning on the dash too?
 
Saint.V8,

I replaced the precharge pump and the error messages are still shown:

0x58 Precharge Pump
0xA0 Driver door mirror heater: open circuit
0x32 CAN bus fault
0xBD EBV function fault received from ABS ECU
0x57 Air Suspension active/inactive

When I removed abs module connector I noticed the following

44393504_892875447581815_3674022145777729536_n.jpg

44536004_992798167572207_2212858702422081536_n.jpg

44453459_489408928210170_6766754269434478592_n.jpg


What you recommend, send abs module connector or do the ABS Short Harness replacement, not £30.02 any more though.
 
Soooo.....looks like there has been some dampness and it has been shorting between pins by the looks of it.

I gave the reccommendation of the pre-charge pump from your diagnostics report - I would have assumed the first thing to have checked was the wiring connection to the ECU, but no matter. I trust you tried to clear the faults out of the ECU and the same ones have returned?

You *may* get away with giving it a good clean up and job done, but it does look like it has been arcing across and has got damp in. The most common place for damp to get in is through the harness as per the tech bulletin, and the 'fix' was to replace the short harness to ensure the connector is clean and the loom is resealed.

Now, and I am not saying this is the issue, but we also don't know what effect this arcing between pins has had on the ABS ECU.....it could be fine, but similarly, once the short harness has been replaced and the ECU connector cleaned up, you could still have the same issue as the ABS ECU has been fried from the shorting across the pins......that is something we don't know - all we do know is that the connector and pins have corrosion and we don't know how that has affected the ECU....

If it was me, I would replace the short harness as it is obvious there is an issue with the connector and the possibility of moisture having been introduced into the loom. Then clean up the ECU connectors and plug it all back in and see if you can clear the faults.
 
Thanks Saint.V8 I will get the short harness on order, think its around £80 now unless you know somewhere cheaper. If the error faults remain do you know of anyone who could test the ABS module. New to the sequence of events hence replaced the pre-charge pump first.
 
Have you had the back off the connector and checked the pins from the rear to see if there is further corrosion?

What you could do is give the connector and the ABS ECU a damn good clean up with some decent contact cleaner and see if it helps and allows you to clear the faults.

The trouble is, you could fork out £80+ on a replacement short harness and the fault is actually in the ECU (or other).....you could fork out for a replacement ECU and the fault is the harness (or other)

As I mentioned in my 2 or 3 threads where I was chasing an ABS fault of my own, the ABS ECU is a known failure item due to heat fatigue, I replaced the short harness and it didn't solve it, and in the end it was an internal failure of the ABS ECU.....

There is a company that can test the ECU I believe something like ECU Reman or BBA Reman or something like that - mainly the Bimmer ECU - but it is the same ECU just coded for the L322.

I would do some research on the company and see if they can do a test on the ECU before hacking the loom apart - that way you are trying to eliminate variables as cheaply as possible. But looking at the state of the connector, I would be looking at replacing the short harness in any case as the connector has definitely suffered along the way somewhere.

Only you can decide if you want to fork out £80+ on a loom and then a further £££ on an ECU or further diagnostics if that doesn't solve it.....
 
Sabbsy said:
Saint.V8 appreciate the advice and I do agree that its like chasing our tail and you never know what will fix the problem. I will check out the test on the ECU, found the site:
http://www.bba-reman.com/gb/index.aspx
Click to expand...
Sabbsy, did you ever solve this? I have all the same symptoms as you with the addition of inactive traction control. I have a pre-charge pump and ABS ECU on order. I pulled the back of the ABS multiplug off per the service bulletin but haven't got a good look at the pins. The connector itself looks fine. Thanks!
 
I know I'm late to the party but I'm SO excited! I bought my L322 a little under a year ago and have slowly been working on it's issues and this one has been the toughest to crack! I've replaced struts and airbags, swapped EAS modules, checked the compressor, cross valves, reservoir, hoses and corners for leaks, tested different sections of the CAN bus with a multimeter. Honestly it was getting nightmarish. Even bought wheel speed sensors but hadn't installed them yet. Then I came across this post and some posts from our BMW E39 Bosch ABS ECU sharing brethren and presto! Mine turned out to be the ABS modulator. I checked the short harness and ground per the service bulletin and all seemed fine, no corrosion or anything so I ordered a used ABS unit. I DID NOT have to removed the brake lines. I simply just took out the 6 T20 Torx screws holding the modulator to the block and swapped the unit I bought with mine. Took me 5 minutes because I cleaned up the donor part and mating faces. Started her up, and cleared the codes. I now had yellow BRAKE and ABS lights, I turned lock to lock many times, even watched the live data feed from the steering angle sensor and the readings lock good but it didn't clear it. I had to go into Calibration on my IID Tool and calibrate the sensor and then BAM! Air Suspension/HDC and traction control back! I may send my old ABS modulator out to be rebuilt considering the donor one has a little over the mileage mine does and the solder on the circuit board wears out after 10 bagillion heat cycles haha. But for now life is good. Thank you 2021 and thank you to everyone who added to this post. Thanks Sabbsy. Hopefully someone finds my addition helpful.
 
Thanks Virtus1 - very useful, at least it's told me that while I'm getting an air suspension inactive fault on my 2002 L322, the problem could actually be the ABS or short harness (whatever that is)
I replaced the LH rear height sensor yesterday, but nothing has changed. The IID tools allows me to raise and lower each corner so I think it's controlling ok.
I'll do a bit of reaseach on short harness and ABS
Recognise anything? Yep, the door mirror heater circuit is defunkt!

Model L322 - Range Rover 2002
Vehicle scanned on 27 Feb 2021 13:24:10
IIDControl 2.9.9.9 Build 74 Android - IIDTool BT V4.0 B2742

ABS-Brake Module

0x8A Air suspension system CAN error

BPM-Body Processor v4

0xA6 Passenger door mirror vertical potentiometer: defective

0xA7 Passenger door mirror horizontal potentiometer: defective

0xA2 Passenger door mirror heater: open circuit

EAS-Suspension

0x21 Rear Right Height Sensor Fault

IP-Instrument Pack

0xBD EBV function fault received from ABS ECU

LCM-Light Control v11

0x57 Air suspension active/inactive

0x5F Check coolant fault
 
Mid-life-crisis said:
Thanks Virtus1 - very useful, at least it's told me that while I'm getting an air suspension inactive fault on my 2002 L322, the problem could actually be the ABS or short harness (whatever that is)
I replaced the LH rear height sensor yesterday, but nothing has changed. The IID tools allows me to raise and lower each corner so I think it's controlling ok.
I'll do a bit of reaseach on short harness and ABS
Recognise anything? Yep, the door mirror heater circuit is defunkt!

Model L322 - Range Rover 2002
Vehicle scanned on 27 Feb 2021 13:24:10
IIDControl 2.9.9.9 Build 74 Android - IIDTool BT V4.0 B2742

ABS-Brake Module

0x8A Air suspension system CAN error

BPM-Body Processor v4

0xA6 Passenger door mirror vertical potentiometer: defective

0xA7 Passenger door mirror horizontal potentiometer: defective

0xA2 Passenger door mirror heater: open circuit

EAS-Suspension

0x21 Rear Right Height Sensor Fault

IP-Instrument Pack

0xBD EBV function fault received from ABS ECU

LCM-Light Control v11

0x57 Air suspension active/inactive

0x5F Check coolant fault
Click to expand...
I certainly recognize some of those faults. "0x8A Air suspension system CAN error" CAN errors refer to the data bus between modules. It would seem to imply the ABS ECU is having trouble talking to the EAS ECU. But I've also heard that systems can function just fine whilst having a CAN error. Unfortunately there is no one fix-all for suspension faults. My issue was particularly difficult because the ABS ECU was damaged and giving false codes. There seems to be some uniformity to the ABS going faultily but anything is possible. In the beamer world they call it the "trifecta" i.e. combination of traction control, ABS, BRAKE and in our case HDC, Air Sus Inactive. If it comes down to it, definitely look into it. Just for kicks try to calibrate your steering angle sensor and see if that shakes anything loose. Look at live values for your steering angle sensor too to make sure it's not faulty. That can give you issues too. I hate to tell you to throw parts at it but when you get a code as specific as "0x21 Rear Right Height Sensor Fault" it's generally worth replacing. "0xBD EBV function fault received from ABS ECU" I did have this code prior to swapping my ECU but don't have it any longer. All I did to check my short harness was visually inspect the plug(after properly disconnecting the battery i.e. wait for entertainment ecu to turn off before disconnect) by opening it up to get a good look at the wires. You can also try doing the ECU reset by connecting the positive/negative battery leads(but not the battery! just the leads!) and see if that helps. Bon chance.
 
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