I will fix it myself... 90 drivers door...

Some twit ran into me up in Inverness during the summer and the door took most of the damage, which wasn't helped by the fact that the door was rust to start with and the inner sill was rust too so the lot just got pushed in.

Fixed the sill, well made a new one and welded the plate from the old one onto the end.

So after trying (not that hard I must say) to try and get a new door I have decided I will just cut the whole lot out the bottom and bash the skin flat, might put a piece of plate behind it between the frame to strengthen it up a bit too.

I am not even going to buy the pieces of repair section just going to weld in square section and see how it goes. So tips, idea etc... post them before Saturday if you have any.

Thanks.

Take it that most of the damage is nearer the bottom? (since you mention sill damage).

Peel the alu skin away from the heat of the torch when you're welding new frame in, and glue the steel alu all back together with epoxy or pitch type materials. No direct metal to metal contact. (LR design fault #1)

If you're going to use a C channel for the bottom, at least use it as an 'n' so that it doesn't catch water when it trickles down from the glass! And slather it in pitch/underseal whatever so that no water collects either on top of it or finds it's way into the joint. (LR design fault #2)

discomania said:

I am not even going to buy the pieces of repair section just going to weld in square section and see how it goes. So tips, idea etc... post them before Saturday if you have any.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

The steel section on the inside of my drivers door is also pretty much mostly rust too!

Where could you buy the 'pieces of repair section' mentioned in your post?

On the other hand, going by the condition of the rest of my vehicle, I might bodge it anyway - why does no-one just use small box section aluminium to repair this stuff? Not strong enough? Problems attaching it to the existing steel?

Vulch