I dont F-ing believe my luck with these cars its all too familiar

Hi guys I don't know if you remember my P38 post a couple of years ago that I couldn't get running over a EBCM fault and after lots of help from you guys we did, Rick at callrover got it going?? this is the link..

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/cheesed-off-need-help-please-guys-sorry-199035.html

Ok after a year with that car I stepped out of land rover ownership till I got my new house sorted and recently have bought another Range rover L322 Vogue 3.6 TDV8 2007 model in black ive had it a week and it all seems to familiar why I said Id not buy another ive got major issue already..

Had her a week and drives well does everything spot on starts great etc all it needed was a couple of cosmetics and I was sorted, but this is where the problem has already started im going to list exactly what the course of events were in case this makes a difference and hopefully maybe yous guys can point me in the right direction before I tear my hair out and never buy another Land/range rover ever again, I just like the looks and drive but ive always been unlucky is it just me or what....

Ok here goes...

Bought car week ago and used it daily for the week no issues what so ever.

Last night I decided to clean the leather interior up so this is what happened

1, valeted interior took about 1 1/2 hours with interior lights on only

2, moved car 2 times and switched off to facilitate the valet

3,locked car at 8 pm

4, came back out house at 10pm to put some cds in autochanger

5, this morning got up at 6.10am with major frost on car, (after reading handbook over last few days decided to try the auxillery heater thing that you set off with remote to warm interior before going to work) I set this away and left it 20mins till I was ready to go to work, I unlocked the car got in loverly and warm it was and went to start engine.

6, engine cranked for 3/4 seconds and then started clicking (flat battery) tried again no good (so I thought great)

7, stuck trickle charger on the car and went to work at 7am came back at 1pm with a brand new battery thinking im not happy it went flat and I don't know the car well so its chance to be a crap battery.

8, Although I had a new battery I tried to start it with the old on on as it had been on charge 6 hours, put key in ignition but it wont turn ?? eh what the hell, so I went and got the spare key neither will that ???

9, now thinking the battery must not be fully charged I thought id fit the new one, so I did brand new £75 battery fully fitted went inside all electrics working locked unlocked car with remotes x2 both fine..

10, went to try and start the rangie with key and the key wont actually turn in lock, neither will the spare key ??

as it stands now

Ive new battery fitted and charged electrics work that don't need ignition on but both my keys wont turn in barrel enough to try and start the car I cant remember if when I put the key in I heard a little sort of motor or something move ie to allow keys to turn something like that but its not making a sound now and they ain't turning to any position ethier

So ive a new 2007 L322 TDV8 that wont sodding start very much like the last load of ****e I had..

Any ideas where to start fellas as im at my wits end as it all seems to familiar to the last carry on I had but im struggling to even think where to start on this car and its on the drive in park, with handbrake on marooned and its my only car at miniute as well...

please help guys im on the bottom, the last one was bad enough but this one was a load more money to be broke

Sounds like it's alarmed. Diagnostics needed IMO.
They do not like low battery volts.

Reading that I feel for you mate hope you get it sorted...

Datatek does the alarm prevent you from actually turning the key ?? I know these Range Rovers have some weird goings on that's all, its opening and closing the doors ok with both remotes and the immobaliser light goes off when unlocked its physically the key wont turn in the barrel in dash ??

neo2 said:

Datatek does the alarm prevent you from actually turning the key ?? I know these Range Rovers have some weird goings on that's all, its opening and closing the doors ok with both remotes and the immobaliser light goes off when unlocked its physically the key wont turn in the barrel in dash ??

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I believe so, but I'm no expert on the L322 especially the later ones, I steer well clear cos I think they are ****e.

neo2 said:

Datatek does the alarm prevent you from actually turning the key ?? I know these Range Rovers have some weird goings on that's all, its opening and closing the doors ok with both remotes and the immobaliser light goes off when unlocked its physically the key wont turn in the barrel in dash ??

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Try turning the steering a little when turning key

Druim said:

Try turning the steering a little when turning key

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I don't think the key directly locks the steering, too simple, it's now electronic

Datatek said:

I don't think the key directly locks the steering, too simple, it's now electronic

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Yes, but, No but steering lock could prevent key turning in barrel - in theory

Druim said:

Yes, but, No but steering lock could prevent key turning in barrel - in theory

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How? they are not mechanically connected if I'm right.

Datatek said:

How? they are not mechanically connected if I'm right.

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I know nothing about L322, tired and just talking to stay awake. (they are on my car:bored: I think)

Druim said:

I know nothing about L322, tired and just talking to stay awake. (they are on my car:bored: I think)

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You have an L322?

Datatek said:

You have an L322?

Click to expand...

Where?

Druim said:

Where?

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It was a question, indicated by the question mark

The immobiliser might we'll have got confused / wiped by the low battery cranking you attempted

Id disconnect the battery and leave for 20 mins

Then re attach and try again

If not, you'll most likely need some diagnostics to sort

neo2 said:

Hi guys I don't know if you remember my P38 post a couple of years ago that I couldn't get running over a EBCM fault and after lots of help from you guys we did, Rick at callrover got it going?? this is the link..

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/cheesed-off-need-help-please-guys-sorry-199035.html

Ok after a year with that car I stepped out of land rover ownership till I got my new house sorted and recently have bought another Range rover L322 Vogue 3.6 TDV8 2007 model in black ive had it a week and it all seems to familiar why I said Id not buy another ive got major issue already..

Had her a week and drives well does everything spot on starts great etc all it needed was a couple of cosmetics and I was sorted, but this is where the problem has already started im going to list exactly what the course of events were in case this makes a difference and hopefully maybe yous guys can point me in the right direction before I tear my hair out and never buy another Land/range rover ever again, I just like the looks and drive but ive always been unlucky is it just me or what....

Ok here goes...

Bought car week ago and used it daily for the week no issues what so ever.

Last night I decided to clean the leather interior up so this is what happened

1, valeted interior took about 1 1/2 hours with interior lights on only

2, moved car 2 times and switched off to facilitate the valet

3,locked car at 8 pm

4, came back out house at 10pm to put some cds in autochanger

5, this morning got up at 6.10am with major frost on car, (after reading handbook over last few days decided to try the auxillery heater thing that you set off with remote to warm interior before going to work) I set this away and left it 20mins till I was ready to go to work, I unlocked the car got in loverly and warm it was and went to start engine.

6, engine cranked for 3/4 seconds and then started clicking (flat battery) tried again no good (so I thought great)

7, stuck trickle charger on the car and went to work at 7am came back at 1pm with a brand new battery thinking im not happy it went flat and I don't know the car well so its chance to be a crap battery.

8, Although I had a new battery I tried to start it with the old on on as it had been on charge 6 hours, put key in ignition but it wont turn ?? eh what the hell, so I went and got the spare key neither will that ???

9, now thinking the battery must not be fully charged I thought id fit the new one, so I did brand new £75 battery fully fitted went inside all electrics working locked unlocked car with remotes x2 both fine..

10, went to try and start the rangie with key and the key wont actually turn in lock, neither will the spare key ??

as it stands now

Ive new battery fitted and charged electrics work that don't need ignition on but both my keys wont turn in barrel enough to try and start the car I cant remember if when I put the key in I heard a little sort of motor or something move ie to allow keys to turn something like that but its not making a sound now and they ain't turning to any position ethier

So ive a new 2007 L322 TDV8 that wont sodding start very much like the last load of ****e I had..

Any ideas where to start fellas as im at my wits end as it all seems to familiar to the last carry on I had but im struggling to even think where to start on this car and its on the drive in park, with handbrake on marooned and its my only car at miniute as well...

please help guys im on the bottom, the last one was bad enough but this one was a load more money to be broke

Click to expand...

check out the cca of your new battery i think you need a min of 850 cca (cold crank amps) to start an l322 but the unstarted electrics would work fine?

johnsteele said:

check out the cca of your new battery i think you need a min of 850 cca (cold crank amps) to start an l322 but the unstarted electrics would work fine?

Click to expand...

Poor things get confused with low volts, fitting a new battery after a low volt event does not always effect a cure. Holiday Chicken will vouch for that.

The L322 has a interlock on the ignition switch that is also linked to the steering lock.

there is a coil around the ignition switch that excites the transponder in the key, if the key repsonds with the correct code, you'll here a click of the interlock solenoid unlocking the ignition barrel to allow it to turn and also a motor whir that is unlocking the steering lock.

I am with the above, you may need to get it on diagnostics to make sure the keys are correctly synced as the immobiliser and steering/ignition lock are all linked.

The L322 is a much much more complex car than the P38 you had at first....

Dealer Diagnostics or full fat Faultmate may help you out and see if there is a hiccup in the system somewhere.

The original battery must have been on its last legs to go flat with the interior lamps on, plus spinning over a big diesel twice in short order, will knacker a tired battery.

the L322 loves battery volts, even more so than the P38...and when jumping....you MUST follow the procedure to the letter!

Hi the new battery is the same as one that came off its 90ah 900 cold cranking amps

I've tried the fuse 18 thing

I've tried taking battery off for twenty minuites as well

I've fully charged the new battery as well

Nothing seems to make a difference it's another sodding ordinment

But I won't have this thing sitting months I will blow my brains out money wise first as I'm not going through another p38 carry on id rather blow £5k

But will try the basics first

In any case

If your serious about owning an L322 and you can't afford to take it to the garage every time it breaks them I would highly recommend you invest in some of your own diagnostics equipment

It will pay for itself in next to no time. It's a must have for any L322 owner really !

I've always wanted one but it's hard having enthusiasm with the hassle I've had in the past that's all diagnostic kit is a good idea

I'm not sure if I could get into the systems though of the key won't turn normally you need the ignition on don't you to start your scans or am I wrong