How to recode your Keyfob

I had a problem with my key fob today
The bugger just stopped working out of the blue

After changing the battery there was no change so i did a quick google and found this on another forum
It worked a treat for me doing it by myself giving the neighbours something to look at jumping in and out of the car as if I'd lost the plot


Many thanks to Elwyn from the other forum

I thought Members might be interested in how to recode or reprogram key fobs (also known a plips). At least, this is the procedure for my series 1 Discovery TDI 2.5 Diesel. (My big black baby and I love her deeply, hopelessly...no stop it!).
I got the procedure from Land Rover and confirmed it on www.programyourkeys.com
This assumes you have one or two of the correct fobs with good working batteries (Batteries CR2016 3volts).
Ideally, you need three persons for this. One in the drivers seat with keys in the ignition; one at the driver's door with spare keys in the door lock and one at the front of the car to work the bonnet switch.
Start with the ignition off and bonnet open with the bonnet switch pressed down.
Then you have to complete the following sequence within eight seconds:-
1. Ignition on - ignition off.
2. Lock doors - unlock doors.
3. Release bonnet switch.
4. Ignition on - ignition off.
Then, if alarm is set the horn will sound and the LED light on dash (in the middle of the dash under the radio compartment) will light.
Now, the programming of the fob or fobs can begin.
Press and hold down the button on the fob until the red LED flashes fast.
Then repeat for the second fob.
When finished wait for the LED to stop flashing or the alarm will go off. (This advice courtesy of Member Grantc).
The dash LED will go out if both fobs have been programmed successfully.
If the second fob does not work, you have to do the first fob again and then the second fob again as part of the same sequence. In other words, if you want two working fobs you must program them together.
I had some worries about what would happen if the coding procedure was unsuccessful and if it would cause any permanent problems but I have had some advice from other members of the forum and have been told it is OK to simply go on trying until successful. In addition, I have today spoken to a Land Rover Dealer (through Land Rover UK) and have been told it is OK to go on trying until successful but to wait 20 minutes or so before trying again.
Hope this helps someone.
Elwyn.

Click to expand...

Nothing on LZ then?

Bonnet switch?

I'm surprised that for a normal battery change you had to go to that lengths with all the jumping out an in and reference to the bonnet switch.

But the system you found is correct for a re-code/reprogramme of the remote handset or 'plip'

You normally only need to go through that if you have a completely new or unknown remote - perhaps from eBay or the like.

After a battery change you should only have to go through the much simpler and shorter procedure, which I told you about yesterday.

I've copied it to here so that all the info regards remotes can be found in the one thread.

Note to mods - perhaps you could consider making this thread a 'sticky'.

1. Carefully prise the handset apart, start from the keyring end using a small coin or screwdriver. Avoid damaging the seal between the two halves of the case and DO NOT allow dirt or moisture to get inside the handset.

2. Slide the battery out of its clip, taking care to avoid touching the circuit board or the contact surfaces of the clip.

3. Press and hold each button in turn for at least five seconds (this will drain any residual power from the handset).

4. Fit the new battery, ensuring that correct polarity is maintained (‘+’ side facing up). Finger marks will adversely affect battery life; if possible, avoid touching the flat surfaces of the battery and wipe them clean before fitting.

5. Press the two halves of the handset firmly together and ensure that both halves are fully joined to prevent dirt or moisture from entering the handset.

6. Resynchronise the handset.
The handset is now ready for use.
Handset resynchronisation

If the handset fails to lock or unlock the car, this may be because the coded signal transmitted by the handset, and the signal expected by the alarm control unit are no longer synchronised.

To resynchronise the handset, operate either button of the handset at least five times in quick succession (in close proximity to the vehicle).

The above info can be found in the Owners Handbook - both the paper version, and for free on-line in the Owner's section of TopiX.

As straight battery change should be simple and straightforward with the re-coding only being necessary if you have a 'strange' remote, being used for the first time.

<<Nudge>>Two threads for the same problem.

Hi Big Uli,

I must be holding my tongue wrong, as I am having difficulties with this.

in the instructions:

"Then, if alarm is set the horn will sound and the LED light on dash (in the middle of the dash under the radio compartment) will light.
Now, the programming of the fob or fobs can begin."

does this mean that if the 8 second sequence has been correctly done, the alarm will set itself? or should I set the alarm after the sequence? or are there some extra pre conditions?

Hi, sorry to resurrect an old thread but the fob on my newly aquired Freelander1 won't work, now I can only assume that the fob is the one that has been used with my vehicle but it wouldn't make sense to provide one with the key if it wasn't, I have replaced the battery and checked the solder joints on the battery surround-two had hairline cracks which I've re soldered, put the case back on but there's still nothing.
I had already ordered a new case as both buttons had worn through but should the fob still operate with worn buttons or even if I took the insides out and pressed the little yellow buttons inside to check operation?, I've tried pressing the buttons quickly five time to re-sync the fob but nothing happens, I haven't tried the procedure yet for programming a completely new fob as I thought I'd gauge opinions here first.
Cheers

britishwardog said:

Hi, sorry to resurrect an old thread but the fob on my newly aquired Freelander1 won't work, now I can only assume that the fob is the one that has been used with my vehicle but it wouldn't make sense to provide one with the key if it wasn't, I have replaced the battery and checked the solder joints on the battery surround-two had hairline cracks which I've re soldered, put the case back on but there's still nothing.
I had already ordered a new case as both buttons had worn through but should the fob still operate with worn buttons or even if I took the insides out and pressed the little yellow buttons inside to check operation?, I've tried pressing the buttons quickly five time to re-sync the fob but nothing happens, I haven't tried the procedure yet for programming a completely new fob as I thought I'd gauge opinions here first.
Cheers

Click to expand...

Does the car start with the fob you have ? - if so then that's the correct fob / transponder and the fob is partly working.

Have you fitted the correct 3v battery CR2032

Outside influences such as pylons can affect the signal

The RF Receiver under the dash cowling may be faulty - see if you can help the signal by pointing the fob straight at the dash cowling (speedo etc cover)

Hiya, the car starts fine on its key if I understand what you're getting at, the seperate fob does absolutely nothing and doesn't affect starting at all, I received a new fob casing today and I've checked the solder joints on the battery holder, the battery is brand new and I've followed the instructions in the owners handbook to re-sync the unit to the car and so far nothing! Lol

Hi so assuming your key is the hinge type - no buttons on it and your fob is attached to the same key and the engine starts up fine - then the transponder (which is inside the fob) is working.... so the fob is the correct one.

The button contacts on the fob internals could worn or the RF Receiver is faulty as said previously ..hope this helps

Hi, no the key isn't the older hinge type but the oval shaped body one without buttons (vehicle is 2003 Freelander1), I'm going to look again at the solder joints but if that doesn't work then it seems that I will have to get another fob and go through the complete re-programming procedure.

I have used this process before but on my older Discovery. Can anyone confirm if the same trick will work on the Freelander and what versions/years? If it does then it will probably work on Rover 75's etc. as well?

britishwardog said:

Hi, no the key isn't the older hinge type but the oval shaped body one without buttons (vehicle is 2003 Freelander1), I'm going to look again at the solder joints but if that doesn't work then it seems that I will have to get another fob and go through the complete re-programming procedure.

Click to expand...

Ah right ...transponder is in your key then

I just tried both techniques mentioned in this thread to program an Ebay bought fob on my 04 K series. Neither way worked.

Anybody know of someone in Northern Ireland who can do this for a reasonable sum.

Cheers
Ali

Edit
I just realised my key is the newer type with the transponder included in it. I guess this means that even if I got the fob to work the key won't work as the blank I bought didn't come with a transponder.

Does this mean I need to go to a dealer for both key and fob?

I called a few of our local independent LR specialists, and one of them said I would need to bring all my keys and fobs, and make an appointment, they have the technology to marry them up for £25 (+ vat I presume). I would guess that may be your best bet too. I also tried all the door opening and other insane procedures, none worked on my 2004MY facelift TD4. The crystals in my fobs all work too, and they all transmitting RF, I have access to Oscilloscopes so I can get that far.

Take the transponder chip (tiny black lump, maybe 8mm long.) out of your working key and glue it to the ignition barrel underneath the plastic steering column shroud. It takes a bit of trial and error to find a spot within range of the receiver coils. Both keys will then work.
Obviously, someone will be along in a while to remind us all about how less secure this is and insurance blah blah blah.....
Its either that or stump up the cash to get a duplicate transponder chip from a main dealer.

As for the fob, is it the right type? There should be a 4-digit code on the back of your original and the replacement should be the same type. Something like Lucas 17TN.

Nice idea, might try that if all else fails.
I have seen transponder chips for sale on ebay for a couple of quid, are they worth buying? if i could find someone local to program them for £25 I'd jump at it.

While looking for the car i bought i saw one which had a button under the steering column and you had to push it with the ignition on to disable the immobilizer. The guy claimed someone had stolen the keys. The rest of the car was dog rough but he was only looking £850 for it.

£25 to program fobs at a garage is a cheap price.

its prob worth saying that on my 97 disco and 06 freelander I have the two button lucas fob, the key also has a transmitting device inside no buttons just a security device so you can't use recut keys without this. the key will do all you need but you have to put it into the lock, of course, the two button lucas device is not essential just convenient. this is the real frustrating bit; There is a method that costs exactly £1 it searches and works on almost all vehicles. I really want to help you out but last time I gave out this info someone used it to steal lots of cars including a mates new disco and it made me very unpopular. It's impossible to know who to trust so I'm afraid I certainly can't post on a site for anyone to view. so why do I bring it up? Because I know that for a quid anyone can get into, deactivate alarm and immobiliser on our prized and valuable Landy's. Get a further device of your own so you don't become a victim. its a while since I was in the trade (over 25yr) so I'm not up to date but I've had all models, all engine types from 48 to 2016. I got too much time on my hands so I hope I can help save you cash sometime. I have a telemetric tracker, I can track it anywhere and switch it off completely anywhere in the world. some insurers provide them for free and although my insurance is as cheap as chips being older with good history, this device reduces most policies by around 25%. Another gadget is 24hr camera with gps tracking and sat nav. you can view from anywhere on a smartphone or computer and see the person/s in full HD if you are a victim of crime, again it reduces your policy price. this was £45. happy 4 wheel driving. ALANdy4life.