How to prevent rust eating our Discovery Mark One?

Hi

We have owned our Discovery since almost new in 1995 and is a member of our family. Each year when we get it Mot'd we have a whole lot more welding to get done - it is expensive! Rust seems to be eating it bit by bit - relentlessly. At our time of life we do not want that amount of cost every year, nor are we particularly suited to clambering under it, stripping it down and doing it up.

Is there a one off treatment that will last a lifetime (ten years?) that we can get done - spraying it with some anti-corrosive?

People we have found want to charge us a lot for not doing what needs to be done - any ideas?

We are sure there are many 100's of people who have confronted and beaten the same problem and would welcome any advice on how we should tackle it. It is very beloved machine used as everyday transport and we would like to preserve it if it we can.

Also the electrics are becoming an issue - electric windows and sun roof not working etc.

Any advice would be gratefully accepted

Thank you

Welcome to the forum.
Sadly, that's the battle we are all fighting in order to preserve the vehicles we love.
I would suggest getting it pressure washed off underneath, the rusty sections rubbed down and then get the whole of the underside sprayed with something like Dinitrol. I would recommend using the cavity spec first for cavities and seams as it penetrates in to these sections, which hold water. Then use the thicker under body spec over everything. Top it up every twelve or 24 months, depending on the type of usage its going to get. You might want to consider spraying with some rust inhibitor/converter, such as Fertan, before the Dinitrol goes on. There are many rust inhibitors/converters on the market as well as under body waxes. Good luck
Which are the worst bits?

All the above is good advice, fertan is excellent stuff, waxoyl pretty goo, dinitrol better.

But, if it is needing welding every year, then I would be concerned that the "welding" that is being done is not being done very well, sorry, but, even a patch repair should last minimum 5 years.... and full panels are available now, which are reasonably priced - some, like inner wings are available as bolt on only - no welding.

i suspect you need a new garage!, but, do tell, which areas are being "awkward"

Cure for rust on a D1.

Sell it....I did

Hello and welcome

Silverlandy said:

Cure for rust on a D1.

Sell it....I did

Click to expand...

That could be a bit drastic but I understand that a lot of ownership has ended this way

Personally I'd go to a different garage if not a landy specialist and get their opinion on its long term prospects, if there's been badly repaired sections on badly repaired bits then it would be easier & better to have it ripped off & done properly but this would cost loads

I'm a repeat offender / D1 owner as I have 2, Oneida driving and the other I'm slowly re-building with plenty of welding, I'm deliberately removing old patches & replacing with new sections - luckily the common rot areas are being re-made so are available and cheap ish

I have no idea as to the cost of paying for the work I've done or yet to do

Good luck

Rich.

Hi Guys

Wow! great advice - I did not even expect a reply, let alone so many so rapidly - you are all brilliant. You cannot believe how much I value your steer - like giving a blind man a stick or Steven Hawkins a voice box. Or a teenager a copy of playboy. I am still al novice at this, but at least I am pointed in the right direction.

What failed the MOT was the body mounting that bolts to the chassis front and rear, but the garage fitted a prefabricated body mount repair kit. Also the Inner and Outer Sill panels. The advisory note said Front wheel arch areas and Both rear body floor pan areas.

Al203 - That is exactly what I needed. There is a place in West London that does Dinitrol. I am gonna give them a ring and see if they do the spray washing and if they are prepared to put Fertan on first. I never knew such products existed! Thanks

Disco 1BFG (does BFG suggest you have a big garage?) - thanks for the waxoyl v dinitrol comments. Re welding: when I say every year, I mean for the last two years. and now I check the last one did replace a panel with a pre-fab unit.

Silverlandy - Sell it! was your answer . . . I suspect your advice is good - it is exactly what I thought about the children so many years ago . . . one basket, one blanket, one set of hospital steps . . . so tempting - but I didn't. Same with the Landy (anyway can't find a basket big enough.)

V8 Geoff - Hello

Zed . . . not from pulp fiction? I knew a guy called Zed, but he was French. and didn't own a land rover, and didn't look like you. so isn't you. Hello. Good luck with your pair of D1s. I, in theory, would love to do it all myself - cheaper and v satisfying. no doubt a pain along the way, but worth it - like building a house or A. Unfortunately that it is not such a viable option and anyway it is everyday transport and me doing it would no doubt put it off the road for most of the next century.

To one and all I thank you and apologise for the tardiness of my response. I will update you on my progress (or regress). First call that place in west London and I will also get a 'friendly' mechanic to put it on a ramp and take a look and show me the carnage as I was not around when the MOT was done.

Thanks again

Silverlandy said:

Cure for rust on a D1.

Sell it....I did

Click to expand...

Exactly what I would do if my disco ever became rusty, but with only 45k miles on the clock there's a long way to go before that happens, may even give it away as no one would take it in part x .

discool said:

Exactly what I would do if my disco ever became rusty, but with only 45k miles on the clock there's a long way to go before that happens, may even give it away as no one would take it in part x .

Click to expand...

is it too soon to call dibs?!

Saltlick said:

is it too soon to call dibs?!

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Definitely