How do I read fault codes Disco 1 V8 3.9 96

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doz

Active Member
Posts
615
Location
Southampton
Hi all. I'm beginning to think I've been stitched up like a kipper with the disco. I have a funny feeling somebody has pulled the engine check bulb from the dash. I will replace it tomorrow but then I've got to get the fault codes read. Now I have several OBD 2 programs on my PC. Full licensed version (not rip offs) but non of them work with the OBD 2 port under the dash. Now am I right in thinking this port will do things like the alarm and windows but not the engine ECU? I've looked under the passengers seat for the (mysterious) fault display and it's not there. So am I right in thinking there's a 5 pin plug for the ECU behind the kick panel? So what do I need to read it? Also am I right in thinking there should be a light on the dash which says "service engine" and should light briefly when the ignition is turned on? If yes then I'm also thinking this has been pulled. If I do have this light and it turns out to be on how do I reset it? Is there a device/software package which I can buy at reasonable costs which can do both these things? The rest of the car is turning out to be a right gem. It's all quiet with no knocks,groans or whines. Rust repairs aren't to bad either so I willing to stick with it. Just given it a services with new plugs,leads,cap and rotor all genuine parts bar the plugs which are champion. I've also fixed the blowing exhaust but it is just so gutless. If I boot it in first it will struggle to hit the change up point on the auto box and doesn't have a cat in hell's chance of getting any where near it in second. I can coax 70 out of it but any sort of hill has the speed dropping severely and the box changing down and putting the rev's in the most gutless point of the rev range. Flicking between LPG and petrol makes no difference. So unless I can decode it and I'd love to get some live data feeds I'm stumped. I've got next week off work and want to tackle it so please guru's help this newbie out. It's a right bummer I even have a genuine Vitronix Tech 1 which I use on my Lotus Carlton and Gsi Carlton ( or any VX from the early 90's) and I haven't got the kit to do this. I'm starting to fell like slamming my genitals in a glass lined draw would be less painful :(:(
 
From what I've read on the forum here, a generic OBD2 reader just won't cut it on a Landy.
Apparently you'll have to get yourself a Hawkeye or Nanocom in order to read or modify ECU fault codes and other settings.
No doubt someone with more Landy experience will be along soon who can add to this thread.
 
Cheers Brian. Looks like it will be hawkeye. From the looks of it I'll need an additional cable for the 5 pin plug plus a couple of adapters if I want to do the airbags and security. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong guys.
 
I might be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that you'll need the Nanocom Evo to get at the air suspension settings. I don't think that the Hawkeye will do it all.
There are plenty of threads "Hawkeye or Nanocom" on the forum.
It's the Nanocom that's on my shopping list after having a good long read of other threads here.
Unfortunately the Nanocom is quite a bit more expensive than Hawkeye (£399) but the first licence is included in the cost.
Alternatively you could try asking very nicely (with a cherry on the top) if there's another member close to you with the necessary kit who's willing to help.
 
Well this is turn up. Engine Check light was present but not working a gentle clean up and the light flashes briefly when turning the key and then goes out. As it should. So no out right faults. Still no joy from the "service engine" light. Totally dead. Maybe I'm just getting confused. Today The car felt much better. I'm wondering if the blowing fannymould screwed up all the fuel trims. It was so much better today. Lovely and smooth, Briskish acceleration. I'll just see how it pans out for a while before I blow 300 quid on the Hawkeye. I'm still not convinced the MAF is correct or if I've got a stalled Lambda. However I'm more confident to give it a try
 
Cheers Cox. For 120 quid I'll have one just in case. after all I can always chuck it on Ebay if I no longer need it:tea:
 
Right. Box of tricks turned up and I've had a play. Some interesting readings. Definitely got a lazy Lambda however apart from that nothing to worry about. Switching to LPG does cause the ECU to store a fault code but I think that's just the nature of the beast. The one thing which does concern me is the when you switch from LPG to Petrol the Lambda's don't come back on line. Effectively they are "stalled". I'll check the wiring on the LPG side. Maybe the relays on the kit are dicky. So all in all I'm not to concerned. Cheers for all the help guys.
 
Right. Box of tricks turned up and I've had a play. Some interesting readings. Definitely got a lazy Lambda however apart from that nothing to worry about. Switching to LPG does cause the ECU to store a fault code but I think that's just the nature of the beast. The one thing which does concern me is the when you switch from LPG to Petrol the Lambda's don't come back on line. Effectively they are "stalled". I'll check the wiring on the LPG side. Maybe the relays on the kit are dicky. So all in all I'm not to concerned. Cheers for all the help guys.

Hello doz,thought I recognised you from OOF ;),could be that your gas system needs recalibration to sort fuel trims,have you finished gassing the Mig yet?.
 
That's me Mr Popular!!!!! :rolleyes:

Mig is all gased up but I still need to do the initial fill to check for leaks then it's Mapping time. Not sure the Disco LPG system is clever enough to worry about the trims. I'm not even sure the Lucas ECU has that sort of facilities. It's a very strange set up. When you flick to gas, the gas ECU ignores the airflow sensor completely and just works on the TPS and Lambdas. There's a couple of interrupt (for want of a better description) relays. Which hi jack the TPS and Lamdas ( I think) and redirect them to the Gas ECU. However I'm not sure if one is working. It seems to be cliciking away and directing the feed but the other identical one has a yellow light on it. I have yet to see the light on the suspect one. It all needs rewiring as well. Total mess. We're see how it goes. If the car is pretty much trouble free I'll spend some time and effort on it sorting the wiring. I've just had a right ballsache with an additional immobiliser which was fitted. Looks like it might of been an official optional extra the depths it was wired in to. Sometimes it wouldn't liven up the ECU power when you first turned the key. So that got ripped out and after many hours it's now gone thank god.
 
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