Hole in rear crossmember
- Thread starter Gcornwall
- Start date
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Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,209
- Location
- Wiltshire
Clean it. Weld a patch on it.
Then check the rest of the chassis
Then check the rest of the chassis
tottot
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 8,007
- Location
- west wales coast
Cut out the rot and flush weld a new section, take the opportunity to have a look down the chassis rail and clear out any crud. You could have a small hole in the new plate and squirt some oil diesel mix down the rail.
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- 4,518
@lynall is right .. "It is the beginning of the end of that x member."
Everyone else is right too ... 'Cut out the rot and weld in a new bit' 2mm steel plate works. It was that thick originally.
Land rover chassis, X-members and outriggers rot from the inside there are also many other areas where mud and grime get trapped and collect water.
Cleaning regularly underneath and during those hot spells we get, when you know the chassis is dry, spray inside the chassis with a rust convertor (Dinitrol for example) and then with Waxoil or Lanoguard (or similar). The problem is that it may have never been done and after a number of years the rot has set in. Yours looks to be in that state - when did you last clean off and coat your chassis with an inhibitor ?
Everyone else is right too ... 'Cut out the rot and weld in a new bit' 2mm steel plate works. It was that thick originally.
Land rover chassis, X-members and outriggers rot from the inside there are also many other areas where mud and grime get trapped and collect water.
Cleaning regularly underneath and during those hot spells we get, when you know the chassis is dry, spray inside the chassis with a rust convertor (Dinitrol for example) and then with Waxoil or Lanoguard (or similar). The problem is that it may have never been done and after a number of years the rot has set in. Yours looks to be in that state - when did you last clean off and coat your chassis with an inhibitor ?
- Posts
- 4,518
Start the engine, visually check for obstacles. Push the leftmost pedal (of the three) to the floor, move that waggly stick (in the middle) to the left and forward. Hold the steering wheel with both hands and (heres the difficult bit) press the right pedal gently down about 1/3rd whilst slowly releasing the left pedal .... If you are not in a field then you need to do other things like indicate, look in the mirrors etc.
Above all don't panic, you'll get the hang of it.
P.S,
If you fail to achieve forward motion, you may have left the handbrake on
flat
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,075
- Location
- Far away from you!!
Just needs a plate, mine was similar and it was flush plated, that was 8-9 years ago so if the rest of your chassis is fine then it may last ages yet.
although mine lives in a garage and get cavity wax every 2 years and regularly chassis jetwashing!
although mine lives in a garage and get cavity wax every 2 years and regularly chassis jetwashing!
mick the builder
Well-Known Member
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- 5,901
- Location
- Sligo,Wild West of Ireland.
That's exactly how my two year rebuild started.
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- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
Snap!
