HGF Freelander 1.8 petrol

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Farmer Andy

New Member
Posts
3
Hi guys,

Being new to the site, I have read the various threads regarding HGF of the 1.8 petrol engine. (I've enjoyed the chuckles!!):eek:
My problem is having recently acquired a 1998 1.8 es petrol freelander, which had been stood for two years, it was quickly evident that the head gasket had gone. As my lad is a mechanic we have replaced the headgasket, including the shim kit. Now its running the bottom hose is not getting hot and the coolant is spluttering out of the coolant resevoir.
Has anyone any ideas what this is all about and how to cure it?:eek:
I will post more info if I haven't been very explicit.
 
Hi guys,

Thanks for the prompt replies. We had the head skimmed so I presume it is level, you might tell me otherwise. I don't think we checked the liner heights. How is this done?
We released the bleed screws, so don't think it is an airlock although it took a bit ot get rid of the air. Can the air get trapped and is there an easy way to bleed the system.

Thanks
Farmer Andy
 
I would bleed the system again from refill, open bottom screw, fill up until coolant runs, close bottom screw, then top up coolant until no more bubbles from top screw.

You have to repeat the top bleed valve procedure until all air in the heater matrix is purged. Basically run it until warm and repeat.

Other things to check are water pump, esp if bottom hose is cold when engine temp gauge reaches halfway.

Cracked reservoir, new coolant cap
 
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the replies. I will give this little lot a go and let you know how things are

Thanks
Farmer Andy
 
also check that the thermostat is working properly,if bottom hose is not getting hot I think the water is just going round the bypass.
I have found on my petrol that the bottom hose dos't get that hot while driving but will heat up at a standstill but as soon as you move off the air cools it quite quickly (Ie you can stick your hand on it without leaving half your skin behind) unlike the top hose!
 
also check that the thermostat is working properly,if bottom hose is not getting hot I think the water is just going round the bypass.
I have found on my petrol that the bottom hose dos't get that hot while driving but will heat up at a standstill but as soon as you move off the air cools it quite quickly (Ie you can stick your hand on it without leaving half your skin behind) unlike the top hose!


Yeah I agree with edge, check the stat, means draining all the coolant again.

Three 8mm bolts on the stat housing and two 10mm bolts holding the coolant elbow to the engine block. Can be done without removing inlet manifold. Note the position/rotation of the stat when removing and refit the same way.

Stick the stat in a sauce pan of water, boil the water and observe the opening of the stat just as the water starts to boil, preferably with a thermometer if you have one. The temp of the stat is stamped on the base usually 88oC, It should start to open at this temp.
 
I should also add that the jiggle valve needs to be checked when bleeding the k-series.

Its the thin tube leading to the expansion tank, that connects on to the rear of the engine head (drivers side), beside dipstick housing.

If you remove the coolant tubing and place a 1/2" tube over the stub, blow into it so air goes into the system. If no air bypasses the jiggle valve you need to push the ball back down the stub, use a small screw driver.

Then start your bleed procedure. The jiggle valve controls pressure so only small amounts of coolant return to the expansion tank.
 
Back
Top