Freelander 1 Help changing ARB bushes

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hovismon

hovismon

Member
Posts
42
Location
Kilrea, Northern Ireland
2001 1.8 Had a bit of a knocking noise coming from the front but she still handled fine. I had a wee look underneath and found one of the ARB droplinks had come apart, one that was replaced only 2 years ago!

So, droplinks ordered and I want to change the ARB bushes whilst I'm at it. Decided to take everything apart today while waiting on the delivery, droplinks came off fine but the ARB bushes.....!

Took the passenger side one off ok, takes a 10mm socket, but the driver's side? A 10mm is too big for the bolt, but a 9mm is too small. What's going on?? Tried to use grips, and tried other spanners and sockets but I just can't get a grip on either of the bolts. So, how the heck do I get the bolts off? Suggestions.
 
Rust! Had the same problem myself and ended up getting out one bolt and rounding off the other. I pulled the saddle up on one side, squeezed in the new one and bolted it back down. If you really really want to do change the bush, spray some paint around the subframe and wishbone supports so you can align them properly later, disconnect the bottom end of the drop links, unbolt the subframe and drop it down so you can get proper access.
It sounds like a big job but is really pretty easy and once it is down you can get at it properly..
 
Thanks for replies. I was hoping not to drop the subframe, but....

Looking at the bolts from above, they aren't too bad looking, not overly rusty and they don't really look rounded, they are just "a bit smaller". As I say, the two bolts I did get out look the same, and they're a perfect 10mm fit. It's twisting my melon, man......
 
Like I said, I had exactly the same problem but managed to get one bolt out on the drivers side. If it helps the bush I took out was as good as the one I put in so the job was probably a waste of time. :confused:
 
The bush I did get off looked ok, not mint but not too bad either. I think I replace things for peace of mind, those things I haven't a clue when they were fitted.

The actual anti-roll bar had also moved over to the driver's side a bit so I want to straighten it up a touch too while I'm at it. MOT on the 30th too!!
 
The bolts are made of cheese. They are so soft they round off readily and that's before rust away. Once rusted, they are the very devil to shift. Use a single hex socket to get most grip on them.
 
hovismon said:
The actual anti-roll bar had also moved over to the driver's side a bit so I want to straighten it up a touch too while I'm at it. MOT on the 30th too!!
Click to expand...

Use a worm drive hose clip to keep the bar centred. The plastic retainers fall off after a few years rust gets under them.
 
I think I'll try to hammer a 9mm socket on since the bolts are soft, I've ordered replacements anyway.

Funny you mention the plastic disk Nodge, there's a piece of plastic on the bar where the passenger side bush came off. It was to the inside of the bush so it did sweet eff all in preventing slippage towards the driver side! The plastic disk is in great condition though. Do you mean I should keep the disk on the inside of the new fitted bush, and put a hose clip around the bar to the outside?
 
hovismon said:
I think I'll try to hammer a 9mm socket on since the bolts are soft, I've ordered replacements anyway.

Funny you mention the plastic disk Nodge, there's a piece of plastic on the bar where the passenger side bush came off. It was to the inside of the bush so it did sweet eff all in preventing slippage towards the driver side! The plastic disk is in great condition though. Do you mean I should keep the disk on the inside of the new fitted bush, and put a hose clip around the bar to the outside?
Click to expand...
There should be a plastic retainer on the inside of each clamp. When one falls off, the bar slides to the missing side. The end on the bar then bangs against the strut as the suspension moves.
If one plastic retainer is missing do the following.

Centre the bar to it's correct position in the clamps. Then use a worm hose clip on the inside of the clamp. This basically replaces the missing plastic retainer with the worm clip.
This will stop the bar sliding about
 
hovismon said:
Make's sense Nodge. Still can't reach the *@!!%*ing bolts properly though.......

If I go in from the underneath I'm working by feel, and if I go in from above I need 6 foot long arms.
Click to expand...

I know the problem. I've used no less than 3 12" and a wobble drive before now. I hate the little brighters.:mad:
 
OK so I bought that Irwin removal set, still can't get the effing nuts loosened! They seem too soft now for the removal tool to properly grip.

Looks like I'll have to loosen the subframe now to get better access. Is the subframe known as 'rear beam' on rave?
 
hovismon said:
OK so I bought that Irwin removal set, still can't get the effing nuts loosened! They seem too soft now for the removal tool to properly grip.

Looks like I'll have to loosen the subframe now to get better access. Is the subframe known as 'rear beam' on rave?
Click to expand...
Don't know about rear beam but taking off the subframe off is pretty easy. Disconnect the bottom of the drop links, undo the two bolts on the rear of each wishbone mount and the two bigger bolts in holding the subframe up. The whole thing will drop out along with the ARB. I don't think you have to undo the front wishbone support bolts but if you do it's no big deal.
 
Subframe duly removed, so it's sitting in front of me with the bolts all readily accessible.

Still, I've tried drilling, I've tried that Irwin extractor set, I've tried internal bolt removers (which broke) and I even tried welding a nut to the ground-off bolt head but it wouldn't stick. I hate these two wee bolts with a passion. They are obviously made of indestructium.

Last resort, I have to pick up the new parts tomorrow from Mid Ulster 4x4 so they said bring it down and they'll have a go. I'm preparing myself to be made a fool of.

Have you ever cried over a Freelander...?
 
hovismon said:
Subframe duly removed, so it's sitting in front of me with the bolts all readily accessible.

Still, I've tried drilling, I've tried that Irwin extractor set, I've tried internal bolt removers (which broke) and I even tried welding a nut to the ground-off bolt head but it wouldn't stick. I hate these two wee bolts with a passion. They are obviously made of indestructium.

Last resort, I have to pick up the new parts tomorrow from Mid Ulster 4x4 so they said bring it down and they'll have a go. I'm preparing myself to be made a fool of.

Have you ever cried over a Freelander...?
Click to expand...
LOL, love it. I thought it was just me. :p
 
If the sub-frame is off. Why not replace it with a second hand one, that doesn't have bolts stuck in the holes?
 
Never thought of that Nodge, if I had I would have very seriously considered it.....

Saturday morning I dropped it into the wonderful Nick McKeown at Mid Ulster 4x4 whilst I was there collecting the droplinks, bushes and bolts. A few hours later he rang to say he'd got the bolts removed!! I offered him my sister in marriage but he said he was good. I've never been so grateful in my life, those bolts were driving me to the funny farm.

When i got home it started pishing it down so I never got the subframe fitted, and today I was out for mum's birthday, so hopefully tomorrow I can get everything put back together again in time for the MOT on Tuesday. I'm aware of the crowds reading this all waiting with baited breath for closure to this, well, tune in tomorrow to hopefully the final episode of "Bloke can't do anything right".
 
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