Heater Blowr Switch Replacement

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
chris38

chris38

Member
Posts
44
Location
Lancaster Area
And now the stupid question :)

My heater blower switch is not knackered but takes a lot of fiddling with to change settings.
Rather than spend £50 on a new one
anyone see any reason why I cant wire up a Carling Off On On to do the same job.
Only £10 and it will fill a hole in the dash that I've told the wife that I cant live without.
Any suggestions on wire guage.
Be gentle with me
 
Not really, it will technically need two stages as it comes on to setting one via a resistor, then setting two is direct feed. The mechanical bit could be left so you can control the flap to close the air flow.

Find the fan heater fuse and then use a cable of gauge greater than the maximum amperage. I'd probably expect it to be about 3 or 4 amps for the heater motor, but remember it could be on for hours so make sure the cable is well within capacity.

A roll of Halfords cable should suit this job and put the new wires into a piece of sleeving or something so they can't chaf.
 
Also, I think if you took the actual switch bit out you would find that the electrical part is just a fairly bog standard linear switch. My first port of call would be to get the electrical part out then have a look on the RS or Rapid electronics catalog. Again remember to get the right current.

Failing that, get a basic little slide switch and attach it to the current heater control and attach it so that sort of full way up it engages the switch and brings it on, sure you will only have full on but to be honest how often do you run a Defender heater on half!
 
Thanks mate.
its got a 15amp fuse in at moment and the switch I have will switch the slow and fast circuit separately, they are rated at 20amp so should be fine I guess.
 
Position 1 is so farty, you could just do away with it and go for a standard on/off switch for full on - it still won't be disturbing any feathers left on the dash lol.
 
Trial wired it this morning, works well, no guessing with the slider switch now.
Oh bugger, I'm going to have to buy a Raptor dash now to put the switch in.:D
And then some more switches
Perhaps some gauges
A CB probably
All to save a few quid on the switch, I love this defender money pit already.
 
All fitted and working great.
One small question, anyone had this problem with Carling Switches before.
They state that the orange bar comes on when the switch is on and goes off when the switch is off.
Mine does the exact opposite otherwise works fine.
All the wiring is okay (only three connections) and the sidelight illumination works fine.
 
chris38 said:
All fitted and working great.
One small question, anyone had this problem with Carling Switches before.
They state that the orange bar comes on when the switch is on and goes off when the switch is off.
Mine does the exact opposite otherwise works fine.
All the wiring is okay (only three connections) and the sidelight illumination works fine.
Click to expand...

Did it come with a wiring diagram? If not I think you can download them from Mudstuff.
 
chris38 said:
Yep, dead simple, other than the dash light and earth only three connections and if you wire them any other way the switch doesnt work.
Click to expand...

Do you not just take your heater live and piggy back it to the on light terminal,that way when your heater is on the live feeds the light?
 
have you got any pics of what you done, ive been thinking of doing mine as well, as the lever controls only work when they decide to, is it as simple of just pulling the 3 wires off the back of the control and push fitting them onto a 2 port switch?
 
Yep, dead easy. Its a carling Off/On/On switch.
Take dash off, no need to take heater switch off, delve into gap, all three wires are just push on. They take a 6.3mm male spade. Make up an extension with three wires the length you need to new switch.
Top wire is the common and bottom two are the two different speeds.
Unplug from old switch, plug into new switch and away you go.
 
when my blower stopped working, i thought dead easy, just do away with the slider and replace with a 2 speed rotary switch, but i,m only getting 3v at the green wires, fuse is ok, i put a 12v live to each of the green wires but still nothing, where could i put some power to determine if the motor shagagged, fan seems to spin freely.
thankfully its summer.
 
Okay so how do i actually wire a carling switch in. I've got an off on on switch spare.

Im not great with wires. which wire to which terminal on the switch?

Any help would be great.

thanks

Rich
 
chris38 said:
Yep, dead easy. Its a carling Off/On/On switch.
Take dash off, no need to take heater switch off, delve into gap, all three wires are just push on. They take a 6.3mm male spade. Make up an extension with three wires the length you need to new switch.
Top wire is the common and bottom two are the two different speeds.
Unplug from old switch, plug into new switch and away you go.
Click to expand...

Okay so how do i actually wire a carling switch in. I've got an off on on switch spare.

Im not great with wires. which wire to which terminal on the switch?

Any help would be great.

thanks

Rich
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

300tdi Tango
Heater blower motor replacement.
Replies
6
Views
540
300tdi Tango
300tdi Tango
L
DISCOVERY 1 HEATER BLOWER
Replies
6
Views
758
lrjohn
L
cappers
Shorted the ignition switch feed!
Replies
7
Views
528
miktdish
miktdish
N
Heater blower resistor
Replies
2
Views
854
Nickjw66
N
G
12V Rocker switch
Replies
0
Views
452
Glack Attack
G
Back
Top