Has anyone used Before n After, based near Rugby, for waxoiling.

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Gaz13

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Thinking of getting the underneath of the Landry waxoiled and was wondering if anyone has used this company and what was the experience like.
 
<COUGH>
Why did you have to ask that....

We are not allowed to speak about it, there were hundreds of posts/opinions and info on here until it all got VERY messy, even messier when Mr Before N After himself joined the show.
 
Any chance of a link
<COUGH>
Why did you have to ask that....

We are not allowed to speak about it, there were hundreds of posts/opinions and info on here until it all got VERY messy, even messier when Mr Before N After himself joined the show.
 
Any chance of a link
Looks like most were deleted following legal threats (I am guessing)

 
You will like chris, he is a grade A personage of the highest order, just see his website to see for yourself.
He is even a member on here who checks to see what is said when his name wilts up.

The main problem with any chassis wax is it is not a one off treatment, it needs touch ups annually, and every few years a full blow in job again, and even then it can still fail, seen it with my own eyes.
Can remember a disco 1 that was done by said fella, that rusted through so badly it failed the mot, he did pay for the welding repairs, but only because the disco owner plastered it all over the web.

If you saw how easy/quick it is to wax the car, you could buy a compressor and wax gun and still be cheaper than one commercial treatment.
 
Thinking of getting the underneath of the Landry waxoiled and was wondering if anyone has used this company and what was the experience like.
For the price of paying for a "professional" service you could buy all the equipment, a day of your time and do it yourself three or four times befroe it is better to pay for the service. I have a couple of threads on how I did mine and what equipment I used as part of my rebuild after the fire, if you are interested I will try and dig them out.
 
For the price of paying for a "professional" service you could buy all the equipment, a day of your time and do it yourself three or four times befroe it is better to pay for the service. I have a couple of threads on how I did mine and what equipment I used as part of my rebuild after the fire, if you are interested I will try and dig them out.
I could even pop up to see you and get you to do it as you’re only up the road from me. I’m in Stow on the Wold.
Seriously though, I’d love to see the post.
 
I could even pop up to see you and get you to do it as you’re only up the road from me. I’m in Stow on the Wold.
Seriously though, I’d love to see the post.

The chassis treatment part of my rebuild thread: LINK
Discussion about the correct compressor attachment: LINK
Discussion on which dinitrol coating to use: LINK

I use a cheap shultz gun for the exterior and an expensive Sealey Air Operated Wax Injector Kit SG18 for the interior box sections. I have an electric hotplate (I deemed the open fire method I was using a little dangerous) and old saucepan to make sure the wax is hot before trying to applying it. You will see in the "what am I doing wrong" thread linked above that the temperature of the wax is fairly critical to the application as the hotter it is the thinner it gets and the easier it is to spray in.

My preference is Dinitrol rather than any of the other options about, but there are lots of other threads discussing what the best is from waxoil to lanoguard. I use 3125HS cavity wax for the internal sections and 4941 for the external.

Once you have the equipment and have done it once you don't need very much time or effort to touch up, having just converted mine to a station wagon I need to do the sills and that is likely to only take about an hour one afternoon this week. as with most things it is the prep and cleaning that takes the time.

Also once you have the kit you find all sort of other things that need treating as well, I have done all three of my land rovers and the trailer now. Hate to think what the total bill to pay someone for that would have been.
 
Been doing v similar to you and using same Dinitrol vax. Ruined a carpet as used a radiator to heat the vax before application. The metal can burst! Now putting it in bucket with boiled water.
My cheap shultz gun came with a 50cm thin pipe to get into cavities.
Been doing a yearly topup on areas that needed, usually in Sep/Oct around mot.
This year did it in June as have a suspicion that the moisture in air in autum was too high + air temp too cool in NE Scotland
Will know next year if the change made a difference

Edit to add that my compressor is a £100 Stanley that doesn't give enough flow. So need to take pauses to get the air tank filled during application
 
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