Handbrake nightmare!!!

Having a real headache with my handbrake as no handbrake at all despite adjusting right up to max.

Thought it just needed a cable - replaced cable - still nowt.

Took it all apart - adjuster pistons all working.

Only way I can any bite is by adjusting nut on back of handbrake housing all the way until cylinder cant be turned - then back of 1 quarter turn again (cylinder can be turned by hand but isnt completely free - if back off until completely free - no bite at all).

But even then needed to adjust handbrake cable right to last mm to get any bite.

Thing is - Haynes says check shoes are not down to rivets and they arent - they are more worn on on side than the other but they seem ok. Can anybody tell me how many mm's thick the pads are on new shoes.

This is all I can think of - the pads look ok but they must be worn??? Never seen new set to compare.

PS - adjuster nut on back of cylinder is screwed well in to get any bite.

Did medd up the adjuster pistons 1st and 2nd time but got them correct now - when handbrake pulled - main piston moves towards back of cylinder (as is direction of pull) and 2 adjuster pistons push out.

Used some online info to double check I have it all correct and it is.

Messed about with this all day and I would really appreciate some advice.

Handbrake has some bite now but not until very end ie - pulled right up and cable adjusted to very last mm which couldnt be correct as leaves no give at all for stretching etc.

PS - its the early one - rod actuated.

Assuming all the pistons push out when either the handle pulled or the adjuster bolt wound in, that only leaves the shoes.
Have you defo got all the wedges the right way around

Yeah I am fairly certain...

Adjuster nut pistons - pointed/slanted ends facing forward so they push outwards when nut is tightened in at back of cylinder.

Main adjuster - shallow end of groove towards back of cylinder (ie side where rod enters).

When handbrake is applied this works as should.

I used a couple of online references and cross referenced the to ensure it was def. correct.

Must be shoes then? Just confused as haynes manual implies they need changed when they are worn beyond what mine are.

Just though I would ask before spending on shoes.

if they are not worn even when you adjust the single adjuster up for one to be nearly hitting the other will be still quite a distance away no ? as they move equally dont they ?

assuming you reassembled correctly and the adjuster isn't worn to bits. you turn it in until tight, then back off two clicks. adjust handbrake cable length and that's it.

i prefer the later setup, which you can just swap straight in if you want

http://www.islandrover.is/gamli/islandrover/upload/files/vidgerdarbaekur/def_90_110_wsm_book4.pdf scroll down to 70

Yeah they are not worn evenly which may be the issue actually - as adjuster nut is only backed of 1 click and handbrake cable still has to be adjusted to within mm of absolute maximum before nut would actually fall off the thing.

It won't be the shoes. The handbrake will still function even with no friction material on the shoes, although it won't he very effective. You just have assembled something wrong or need to readjust everything. Take it all apart, clean everything and put it back together again whilst double checking that the expanders are correctly oriented and the cable is correctly adjusted

These might help. It's important that the rollers and expanders are set correctly

Would you believe...

There are 2 types of the older ones for my 1993 200tdi - both rod actuated and both cables look identical - but one is about 10cm longer.

The one that that was in the Land Rover when I bought it is actually the wrong one ie - too long so when I matched the new one obviously it was too long too.

Got the shorter one and jobs a good un!

Still not the best handbrake in the world but it is now working.

Thanks guys!

haha, least you've sorted it.

Buy an X brake Brilliant bit of Kit.