Handbrake differences

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dag019

dag019

Well-Known Member
Posts
6,317
Location
Warwick
My disc handbrake conversion is becoming troublesome, I do not know if it needs stripping and cleaning or if it’s not set up correctly. But it only Seems to keep Adjustment for a few weeks and then stops working again. As such I am looking at the options to revert back to a drum brake setup either permenantly or temporarily while I investigate the disc brake on the bench.

My question is are all handbrake equal in terms of fitting. I know there is two different sorts (maybe three if you count the pumas but I ignore anything post td5 as that is already too new and electronic for me). Will the later cable operated style as fitted to a r380 box bolt onto the lt77 or do I need to find a rod operated one which from memory was equally as problematic in terms of weather it worked or not!
 
The x-eng disk brakes only need a bit of crud between the 2 plates & bearing actuator to slowly fail.(stops the ball bearing dropping into the tapered cup and applying brake) Once this is cleared mine work fine.
I know if it has crud in it as when you apply the handbrake it goes past the ratchet point.
Going to see if brake cleaner works
 
Hicap phill said:
The x-eng disk brakes only need a bit of crud between the 2 plates & bearing actuator to slowly fail.(stops the ball bearing dropping into the tapered cup and applying brake) Once this is cleared mine work fine.
I know if it has crud in it as when you apply the handbrake it goes past the ratchet point.
Going to see if brake cleaner works
Click to expand...
That is my hope. But I can’t afford to have the vehicle off the road. So was hoping to fit an R380 handbrake which works better than the original one while trying to rebuild the xeng one.
 
dag019 said:
That is my hope. But I can’t afford to have the vehicle off the road. So was hoping to fit an R380 handbrake which works better than the original one while trying to rebuild the xeng one.
Click to expand...
I remove the middle seat panel and takes about 20 mins to do.

What make of disk brake have you got?
 
Seaswood said:
The drum hand brake works quite well maybe rather cumbersome to set though usually once set up they work.
Click to expand...
This conversion has always puzzled me .. the advantages of a disc set-up vs drum are well understood, but why would you want them for what is essentially a parking brake?
 
norseman said:
This conversion has always puzzled me .. the advantages of a disc set-up vs drum are well understood, but why would you want them for what is essentially a parking brake?
Click to expand...
There are pros & cons with this conversion.
If I go off road no water/crud goes into the drum & wears everything down. If I have an output seal go I see it quicker.

Cons.. you should not use this conversion if you do a lot of winching & when they don’t work it’s a pain.
 
Hicap phill said:
The x-eng disk brakes only need a bit of crud between the 2 plates & bearing actuator to slowly fail.(stops the ball bearing dropping into the tapered cup and applying brake) Once this is cleared mine work fine.
I know if it has crud in it as when you apply the handbrake it goes past the ratchet point.
Going to see if brake cleaner works
Click to expand...
Can you give me a little more detail on exactly where this part is? I have never actually had the calliper apart properly on this so am not sure what it is I am needing to clean out but your assertion it only takes 20min fills me with hope.
 
dag019 said:
Can you give me a little more detail on exactly where this part is? I have never actually had the calliper apart properly on this so am not sure what it is I am needing to clean out but your assertion it only takes 20min fills me with hope.
Click to expand...
Cable goes onto a lever, it’s that part that you strip down. I normally take middle seat out and do this from above. 2 lock nuts undo and slide it all apart. The lever with them holes has a locater. Note which hole it uses & lever location angle. When you strip it down make sure you don’t lose the small bearing between the black diskz

Before you start doing all the above,when I first fitted mine the lock nuts came loose a few times. Took me a few attempts to get correct.
1739793742244.jpeg
 
Hicap phill said:
Cable goes onto a lever, it’s that part that you strip down. I normally take middle seat out and do this from above. 2 lock nuts undo and slide it all apart. The lever with them holes has a locater. Note which hole it uses & lever location angle. When you strip it down make sure you don’t lose the small bearing between the black diskz

Before you start doing all the above,when I first fitted mine the lock nuts came loose a few times. Took me a few attempts to get correct.
View attachment 335266
Click to expand...
Don't think mine looks like that (although am going off memory) Mine looks more like this: LINK

1739802597233.png
 
Hicap phill said:
Looking at that,its even more simple.
Calliper looks like it’s on sliders(make sure it’s not seized)
Check lever is actuating the piston(unsure if there are any other moving parts)
Tighten up the handbrake cable
Click to expand...
You have just confirmed my issue. Everything works and moves. The issue is the cable I assume stretches. And needs adjusting every couple of months. That was what I was hoping to rectify.
 
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