glow plug trouble

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paxo

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hi all
i have a freelander td4 that i am having trouble with so hope somebody can help me,i have lost all power to glow plugs even the light on dash not comin on tested the main 100amp fuse thats fine but i got no power to relay is there another fuse hidden somewhere else that i dont know about so if anybody got any ideas whats goin on please help me out cuz its getting hard to start her up
thanks paxo
 
Where are you? You shouldn't need heat to start a Td4 at this time of year, mine don't even come on. If you're having trouble starting I suspect you are looking in the wrong place.
 
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Maybe it's the relay thats knackered or the wiring prior to it. I agree with Davec, unless of course you live somewhere cold.
Could look at your injectors, mine wouldn't start first time so I put some Redex in and its fine now.
 
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:welcome2:.....As above replies, the ECU will not be activating the heater plug relay at these temperatures.
Use the forum search for 'injector leak test'. Excessive leak back/low fuel pressure is the main cause of poor starting of TD4s.
 
thanks for replies but would the dash light not come on as it did upto last week and started no problem then nothing and hard to start but runs sound once started
 
hi all me again
had diagnostic check done
we now have code p3505 glow plug system
garage cant identify code so open to suggestions
thanks
 
Can't emphasise enough, glow plugs don't get used in these temps....

P3050 is a manufacturer specific code for the glow plug circuit, I can't identify any specific fault.

If the glow plugs work when the relay is provided with an earth to energise it then the circuit is OK, it's just that the ECU isn't providing that earth because it isn't cold enough.

The code will/can be present if you have been messing with anything in the glow plug circuit and doesn't mean you have a fault.

To interrogate correctly you have to clear any stored codes then see if they reappear during normal use of the vehicle.
 
My glowplugs have hardly operated all summer, if fact I would be pushed to tell when they did last operate. The dash light doesnt come on because the plugs are not being heated and only need to be when its below 10degC (IIRC). If you are having problems starting, have you thought about your battery being on the way out? Try giving it a boost charge overnight.
 
I have the same thing happening to me at the moment, first thing i did was replace the plugs, still hard starting +white smoke. I have just bought three injectors (figure at least onehas to work, cause it still go's) just need to find the leeeaky one/two (three!!).

I have done the search on the forum for the leak test but the only thing i find is people refering to searching for the leak test! Can anyone of you point me in the right direction?

Cheers,

Billy G
 
It might also be worth remembering that these modern diesels are all direct injection which means they are less reliant on glow plugs than the older generation indirect injection diesels. Their use is mainly to aid in much colder starting than we've got now & for cleaner emissions during these inital seconds of colder startings.
 
Billy-g said:
I have the same thing happening to me at the moment, first thing i did was replace the plugs, still hard starting +white smoke. I have just bought three injectors (figure at least onehas to work, cause it still go's) just need to find the leeeaky one/two (three!!).

I have done the search on the forum for the leak test but the only thing i find is people refering to searching for the leak test! Can anyone of you point me in the right direction?

Cheers,

Billy G
Click to expand...


You bought THREE new injectors without testing? Can I have your old injector please, free of course:D:D:D

Useful leak test info below.

http://www.uniteddiesel.co.uk/tips_docs/Bosch common rail diesel injectors checking back leakage.pdf
 
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Thats nothing- the bloke i got them off (£65) had bought 4!

I reckon if i can get them refurbed or find a procedure/bits for them i'll start offerin some kind of rolling stock service for the good peeps of the forum. So ill keep hold of them for the moment!

Billy G
 
Billy let me know how you get on with the injectors, i have the same problems you do with white smoke etc. What i have read is that you take the pipes from the top of all the injectors by twisting them off, block off the return pipe with a clamp or something similar and then turn the key but don't start the engine. Apparently you should see some fuel leaking back up the injector if it is leaking.

If i am wrong someone correct me i am no expert.

I was reading roverrons web site in detail and found this.
75ZT HOME
See section 6) COMMON ENGINE FAULTS part 5) INJECTOR ISSUES

I haven't done mine yet as I haven't had time to look but hope to do it this weekend.
BTW I bought some Millers power sport 4 over a week ago and it made a big difference. Still crap on sart up though. Fuel filter coming hopefully tomorrow and then get a new maf.
 
hi all
just a quick thanks to you all
problem now sorted and she running fine at last
problem was some tw@t had the engine chipped which developed a fault
and wasnt letting diesel into injectors now starts great
so thanks to you all
 
paxo said:
hi all
just a quick thanks to you all
problem now sorted and she running fine at last
problem was some tw@t had the engine chipped which developed a fault
and wasnt letting diesel into injectors now starts great
so thanks to you all
Click to expand...


Chipping the engine is not bad providing you use a good box like a roverron synergy. Even they do go wrong & the first thing to do is disconnect & see how things go. If you know the make of the unit, you should get it checked out as apparently when injectors start to fail the tuning box appears to magnify the problem as it "works" the injectors harder than standard. Disconnection can seem to cure it till a few months down the line when the failing injector gets worse. Although not a common problem, it can happen & is still worth getting things properly checked out.
 
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