GETTING SWIVEL TO AXLE BOLTS OUT!!

Looking for some wise advice! I have a swivel oil seal leak on Discovery 1 which needs fixing. I have looked at the alternative to removing the swivel such as cutting the seal and fitting it to the swivel housing that way but it doesn't seem recommended. So the only alternative is to separate the swivel housing from the axle which means removing the seven bolts with the strange heads which I have done previously on a previous vehicle but on the one I am working on now (1990) bolt heads are rusty, worn and clearly going to be an absolute pig to remove. I have tried putting the appropriate socket (a quality one) on to test if it will get a grip but it is clear that on a number of the bolt heads this won't work.

As seen the guy on Britannia Restorations (YouTube) at the heads of the bolts with an angle grinder, remove the swivel and then using heat and a grip wrench remove the remains of the stud being a bit of a pessimist I can imagine struggling to get the studs out.

I don't suppose there's any shortcut or something that hasn't been said before but thought I would ask?? Picture of the bolts below

Clean them up best as possible, heat them up, long spanner and give it a go.
Might be pleasantly surprised

Clean them, soak with ATF/acetone mix for a few hours- much longer if possible with repeat soaking.
Tight fitting ring-spanner and tighten the bolt first, then try undoing.
Those that don't undo, cut off the heads.

Remove top and bottom pins, then remove ball, replace seal.

On my 90, I was able to split the thick washer on those bolts with the corner of a good chisel. With the washer out, the bolts loosened really easily. But as said above, clean the area up with a wire brush, soak with good penetrating fluid (not WD40) and you might be surprised. Remember and order new bolts !!

An ideal situation for a magnetic induction heater if you have access to one.

Freeze and release spray might work as well

We use Kluber release spray at work for when we have a seized mains valves or fire hydrants.
It's amazing stuff and I've shifted many seized fittings and saved a few hundred thousand £££'s in not having to exchange stuff.
I soak the fitting, then shock it with a club hammer.

Mine were in similar but better condition that that. Even with heat, pen fluid one turn of the spanner the head rounded off.

Cut the ball off and replace or get a new axle case. In my case a full axle swap was considerably quicker.

Firebobby1 said:

We use Kluber release spray at work for when we have a seized mains valves or fire hydrants.
It's amazing stuff and I've shifted many seized fittings and saved a few hundred thousand £££'s in not having to exchange stuff.
I soak the fitting, then shock it with a club hammer.

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Just checked it out.
Not cheap, innit!

Stanleysteamer said:

Just checked it out.
Not cheap, innit!

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It's expensive stuff, but a can lasts a while.
A Fire hydrant exchange costs around £4k all in, from start to finish, so you can see a £50 tin is well worth it.

Firebobby1 said:

It's expensive stuff, but a can lasts a while.
A Fire hydrant exchange costs around £4k all in, from start to finish, so you can see a £50 tin is well worth it.

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Oh absolutely!
And I can imagine that time it takes to open the valve is paramount in your business!

Firebobby1 said:

We use Kluber release spray at work for when we have a seized mains valves or fire hydrants.
It's amazing stuff and I've shifted many seized fittings and saved a few hundred thousand £££'s in not having to exchange stuff.
I soak the fitting, then shock it with a club hammer.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that suggestion, I have looked online for Kluber release spray this seems a manufacturer a lot of different sprays for various applications – you don't happen to know the particular product number or name do you?

Thanks for all the responses to this – at the end of the day there is no shortcut so I think I need to prepare for a bit of pain!

lrjohn said:

Thanks for all the responses to this – at the end of the day there is no shortcut so I think I need to prepare for a bit of pain!

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Post no4?

lynall said:

Post no4?

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Have you ever done that?

The seal won't go over the ball, it only goes over the flange end.

lrjohn said:

Thanks for that suggestion, I have looked online for Kluber release spray this seems a manufacturer a lot of different sprays for various applications – you don't happen to know the particular product number or name do you?

Click to expand...

I'll get back to you

GRATCH said:

Have you ever done that?

The seal won't go over the ball, it only goes over the flange end.

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Doh I was thinking it would just stretch over!

lynall said:

Doh I was thinking it would just stretch over!

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No, its a metal outer.

I have in the past cut a slit and twisted it over the ball (remove the spring behind the seal lip first, it will stretch over the ball) as a quick bodge.
Remember to put the slit to the top of the housing.

GRATCH said:

No, its a metal outer.

I have in the past cut a slit and twisted it over the ball (remove the spring behind the seal lip first, it will stretch over the ball) as a quick bodge.
Remember to put the slit to the top of the housing.

Click to expand...

I did the slit thing years ago on my s2, in the end guilt got the better of me and I changed it for an intact version, to be fair the slit one did not leak.