gearbox solenoids

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gordoncoll

Active Member
Posts
127
Location
weymouth
hi guys,

any one know the best place for these? best place to buy that is not the best for them to be fitted I am assuming that is the geardox !!!!!!!.


Preferably without them being thesame cost of a secondhand td4 auto box !!
or does anyone know of or have a good 2nd hand td4 jatco 2003- box for sale :)


Cheers
Gordon
 
The solenoid valves aren't that expensive. You'll only need 1 or 2 at most. Are you sure that the solenoids are the problem? The barrel connectors are a more likely cause.
 
naw they are all new had all the wiring replaced, guy tells me the solenoids are showing up faults, might have been shorted by the wiring which had worn through, forgive my stupidity but where are they located????

even with all new wiring and new brake switch etc I still have f4 and hdc light on,
 
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Do you know which solenoids are showing as faulty? They are fitted to the gearbox valve block. They are covered by the sump pan, on the front of the box.
 
my generic code reader says p1748, I can try to ask the bloke who did the wiring etc already being 700 quid down just to get this and the diff mounts done I really would like to get the cheapest way to do it possible . Local auto specialists are saying 400-450 for all the solenoids changed!
 
gordoncoll said:
my generic code reader says p1748, I can try to ask the bloke who did the wiring etc already being 700 quid down just to get this and the diff mounts done I really would like to get the cheapest way to do it possible . Local auto specialists are saying 400-450 for all the solenoids changed!
Click to expand...

The solenoids can be tested, so there's no need to blanket change them. Code P1748 is usually 2/4 Brake Duty Solenoid open or short circuit
The 2/4 Brake Duty Solenoid is 2nd from bottom.
A resistance test of the solenoids would be the next logical step
Has the box fluid been changed? That's the first job to do on an auto box. Fresh cures all kinds of gearbox problems.
Code P1748 can also point to a TCM malfunction.
 
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oil has been done but as I say the xyz (?) cable had got mangled so the guy who had it suspected the solenoids had shorted out. is changing solenoids do able at home? I can give it a crack I dont mind a bit of delving !what I dont want to do is something I will end up stuck halfway through !
 
The solenoids are diy job. There's no point in replacing good ones though. Just change the solenoids you have codes for. I'd be checking the resistance, before replacement anyway.
 
nodge

a cheeky request but can you point me in the direction of a guide for removing the pan and changing the solenoids anywhere? I have done a search to no avail.
and I dont posess a multi meter so I cant check, given that I know all the wiring is good I am going to have to trust the diagnosis from the garage
 
Before starting a job like that. It's worth doing a bit of testing, using Hippo's guide. I'd buy a digital multimeter (DMM). A reasonable DMM can be bought in Argos for around £20. This would do all you need in the way of testing the solenoids and much more.

All the resistance values and how to probe for them are available on Hippo's threads.
 
Right my 2/4 brake duty solenoid is the culprit, got the place that did the other work to tell me today. I have a new one coming. How hard to change? Can i do it on axle stands on the drive? Is there a thread of a how to anywhere? How much atf am i gonna lose?
 
Very easy to change. You shouldn't loose any ATF fluid, except for a few drips. Take the sump off, once the cooler is out the way. Then locate and remove the correct solenoid valve. Replace the solenoid and refit the sump with a bit of RTV.

This is the valve block, showing the solenoid positions. I borrowed this pic off the net.
Jatcosolenoids.jpg
 
if I want to change the atf can I use Texamatic 7045E or an equivalent??????? seems to make more sense as this is a higher specced fully synthetic and is the replacement for the other stff , bmw use it and it is cheaper than the the original spec tackle
 
gordoncoll said:
if I want to change the atf can I use Texamatic 7045E or an equivalent??????? seems to make more sense as this is a higher specced fully synthetic and is the replacement for the other stff , bmw use it and it is cheaper than the the original spec tackle
Click to expand...

My preferred ATF for the Jatco and many others is Carlube ATF-U. It's about £26 a gallon and far exceeds the original LR spec fluid.
 
thanks for all the advice, once again this forum has been great


changed all 9 today , thought as I was in there I may as well, I have a set of 8 plus a non working 2/4 duty if anyone wants em????
 
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